I think my 95 RK called for 15 in front. Had an OE sticker on the top of the clutch side crash bar for the hard bags

 

Thanks I'll take a look and see what kinda info is on mine.

 

As gonemad stated the info on air is mounted on the left rear crash bar. Takes 15 psi.



And that has been the only good news for the day on this project. I got everything assembled, added gas and fluids, installed brand new battery, hit the starter button and all I get is a very loud sounding "click". Changed out the starter relay, same thing, changed out the 15 amp fuse, same thing. No starter motor spinning, trying to spin and definitely no engine craking/attempting to crank over and start. So my thought was that the problem is related to the coupler on the starter shaft extension that I had problems with earlier (coupler was hanging up on the shaft extension). The bike ran before I tore it apart. None of the ignition wiring wiring has been messed with, nor has anything on the right handlebar been opened or moved.

So I go to take the starter off, undo everythjin (bolts and wires) and it will not come off the back of the inner primary. Take the primary apart to get at the starter motor. Try and tap the inside that mates to the primary with a hammer, it moves but still will not come off. Finally figure it out, the front of the starter motor (the portion that holds the cover) has thru bolts for the starter. The bottom thru bolt is against the oil filler spout and has no way to move. So now the exhaust system comes apart so that I can get the bolts out and remove the spout. The manual states that all that is needed is to get the starter motor out is to remove the jackshaft bolt, the two mounting bolts and the wires in order to remove the OEM starter. All I can figure is that the All ***** starter is just a tad longer so that it will not come off the stud so that it can be removed. I'll find out tomorrow cuz I am going to put the original back on (at least temporaily) The main reason I did not figure it out is that I installed the All ***** starter and then added oil filler spout and the exhaust. (Wasted a couple of head scratching hours trying to figure it out.)

Next up...f'n can't believe it but my oil pan gasket leaks from the area of the two right rear bolts. I followed the torque sequence to a tee. So now I get to drain the motor and tranny oil and replace the gasket. (I tried to give the screws a little bit more torque but it did no good.)On the plus side at least I do not hav to remove the pan, just replace the gasket.

Last up on the plate. When I had the inner primary off the first time, I replaced the mainshaft seal and the quad seal. That said I am getting seepage on the outer are in the pic. My concern is that once I start riding the bike it is going to leak even more which means all over the belt and rear end (just like before). My 49 is supposed to drop oil on the ground, this bike is not supposed to leak oil. What am I missing, What didn't I do? What do I need to do to fix it. Pic is pretty lousy. There is actually more oil seeping around the area than is showing and it has dropped some on the rear sprocket.





Final question of the day. What are the white buttons on the backside of the Deutsch connectors.



Reason for asking is that when I took one of the connectors apart to add the braces for the front fairing I ended up depressing two of them on one side of the connections. I cannot get them to pop back out it seems.

 

The white buttons are just plugs in unused terminal holes, to keep the connector sealed against moisture.

Will the starter operate in place with the jack shaft removed?,

 

I didn’t think the oil level in the pan would be above the gasket surface, could that oil be coming from the spout area while filling?
Same for the transmission, I guess the oil level could reach the main shaft with the bike in the side stand.
Strange that leaked without even running or riding the bike.

 

Yes, make sure you know where the leaks are actually coming from.

That leak with the arrow is the location of the "wedding band" seal #12035b. Did you replace that or the larger one that seals the outside of the spacer (or both)? Was the spacer replaced? Quad seal can get twisted or moved out of position sometimes during install.

Also use the "foamette" style oil pan gasket, thank me later

 

Thanks for infor on buttons. I didn't try to operate the starter with the jackshaft out.

It's defintiely not from the oil spout. Once I get the exhaust off today I should be able to pinpont the source. But something is definitely leaking. Oil under the same spot this morning.

I did not change out the wedding band seal nor did I replace the spacer, just the mainshaft seal and the quad seal. I'll order those parts and change them out. Thanks for the info on the gasket. Would you have a source? I googled the info. The only place that offered them are "out of stock" (dcp.one).

 

Check JP, Dennis Kirk, and there is always fleabay. May also be called “AFM” gasket.

 

Schex...could that oil be coming from the spout area while filling? Yankee Dog...Yes, make sure you know where the leaks are actually coming from.

I am like serious **** when it comes to oil spills, filling the bike with fluids (be it gas or oil). Just do not like messes. That said your statements got me to thinking about the oil spout. Ended up pulling the exhaust because I needed to get to the starter (more on that below). After the exhaust I pulled the four bolts that attach the oil spout to the side of the transmission case. Stupid error on my part. Turns out I installed the oil spout gasket upside down (only goes on one way correctly) and the accumulation of oil was from filling the oil tank. Excess oil leaked into the cavity of the oil spout and down along the top of the oil pan and onto the bike stand. Put it in correctly and the area is dry as a bone. Thanks.



Next up was the starter motor problem. Manual states the starter motor can be pulled without taking other stuff apart. Problem is that with the All ***** starter I have zero clearance room so in order for the motor to come out I had to pull the back end of the right side exhaust system as well as the oil spout cover. With that done I was able to get the motor off the stud (backside of tranny case). The coupling was stuck on the end of the shaft. Came off easy enough once I pried it with a screwdriver tho. Spent a little more time working the splines on the starter motor so that the coupler moved freely along the splines of the starter motor.

Before I went further, I did a quick and rough measurement between the OEM and All ***** starter. Turns out the All ***** starter is 1/4 inch (plus/minus) longer than the OEM one. Hopefully this will help someone thinking about switching/ upgrading their starter motor. I am assuming the difference is because the All ***** has a higher kw rate than stock? Can't speak to any other aftermarket ones. I chose the All ***** starter because it is made by our neighbors north of us and not in some sweat shop in a third world $hithole country. So, if I need to pull it in the future it will trake a bit of extra effort.



Schex...Will the starter operate in place with the jack shaft removed?...

Next step was to test the starter as I added components to it. First step, I mounted the starter by it self (no jackshaft), turned on the ignition switch, hit the startter motor and it activated/ spun freely. Next I added the jackshaft with starter drive gear, inner primary with a couple of bolts to hold it in place, outer primary & gasket along with a couple of bolts to secure it. Ignition, on, starter button and it worked perfectly. I then added the clutch hub to the mix (hub nut was put on with a ratchet), again functioned as it should. Lastly, I added the front spocket into the mix along with the chain (again the bolts holding both were just ratchet tight), pulled the front spark plug, hit the ignition button and the motor cranks with no issues. So, seemingly I have got the starter motor problem resolved and have the power to start the bike. Now I get to take it all apart and reassemble the complete primary correctly. When I take it all apart I am going tgo inspect the clutch hub for seepage now that it has had an opportunity to turn over. Hopefully there is little to no oil on the sprocket so that I can put it all back togeteher and run it until the other parts come in.

Progress....finally.

 

The stock starter is 1.2KW. The All ***** is 1.4KW, Dave.