When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Can someone please explain whatcauses the crak in the rear exhaust y-pipe. Not an issue with mine but saw it mentioned on another forum. When I reassembled the exhaust system I installed front and rear header pipes, then the y-pipe and then the mufflers. After getting everything in place I then tightened the header pipes, the y-pipe and finally the mufflers. Also made sure to clamp the lower portion of the header pipes to the tranny case.
Make sure the pipe is a nice fit to the the tranny bracket BEFORE tightening the exhaust port flange bolts
Some wind up using the tranny clamp to pull the pipe "IN"
I believe this causes undue stress on the Y
JMO / YMMV
From 1981 through the 1994 Touring line there was a bracket that attached to the left side of the Y-pipe and bolted to either the starter or maybe the top of the transmission. If you look at the Ronnie's microfiche it's there for every bike in the Touring line through '94 and then in 1995 it's gone. The pipe to muffler connection changed in '95. Maybe the factory thought that was enough to eliminate the bracket? I've had the pipe on my '95 Road King welded twice.
Originally Posted by rhedengr
Check for play at the end of the mufflers under the saddlebag mounts. There are rubber mounts for the pipes and they wear out. Every time I have cracked a pipe (3 or 4 times now), I have found that rubber to be worn. I grab the muffler weekly to check for wobble now because NOS pipes are getting harder to find, and I have a handful of "fixed" ones in my shed that I don't have a lot of confidence in.
Originally Posted by eighteight
Make sure the pipe is a nice fit to the the tranny bracket BEFORE tightening the exhaust port flange bolts
Some wind up using the tranny clamp to pull the pipe "IN"
I believe this causes undue stress on the Y
JMO / YMMV
From 1981 through the 1994 Touring line there was a bracket that attached to the left side of the Y-pipe and bolted to either the starter or maybe the top of the transmission. If you look at the Ronnie's microfiche it's there for every bike in the Touring line through '94 and then in 1995 it's gone. The pipe to muffler connection changed in '95. Maybe the factory thought that was enough to eliminate the bracket? I've had the pipe on my '95 Road King welded twice.
Then that ^ starter mounted bracket ( 65988-98 ) REAPPEARS in `98
Bracket revised in `07 but retained until the under frame X pipe started
Evidently the factory "rethunk" their idea !
Last edited by eighteight; May 18, 2022 at 08:08 AM.
Interesting because I've never heard of the problem being associated with rigid mount motors. My 65 and 84 have the y-pipe for the dual system and to date I've never encountered that issue.
The rigid mount doesn't let he motor bounce around like the rubber mounted years do.
Is it just a rubber mounted engine issue or does it occur on softtails as well I wonder?
Whatever it takes, you need to be able to access the schrader valve to air the forks. Without air pressure in there you will not like the ride or handling, trust me. If you can get to it, the easy (vacuum) method is the only way to go.
If you don't want to do that, best change the springs to an aftermarket version that eliminates the air ride altogether.
K, I'm stuck. Got air out of the forks, removed Schrader valve, removed bottom plugs and drained oil out of both.
Attached a tube over the Schrader valve, tube in the bottom drain hole, plugged the other side, attached a Mighty Vac to the top, but I cannot get enough pressure to suck up the fork oil (have correct amount measured out in a glass jar.
Seems as tho I need a small motorized vacum unit to suck up the fork oil?
K, I'm stuck. Got air out of the forks, removed Schrader valve, removed bottom plugs and drained oil out of both.
Attached a tube over the Schrader valve, tube in the bottom drain hole, plugged the other side, attached a Mighty Vac to the top, but I cannot get enough pressure to suck up the fork oil (have correct amount measured out in a glass jar.
Seems as tho I need a small motorized vacum unit to suck up the fork oil?
Yeah, that's the dirty little secret no one mentions There may be some guys who can suck it in with a hand pump, but I've never been able to pull that off.
I use a 10cfm Robinair pump from my hvac days now, takes <10 seconds. But before that, I simply used a length of cheap hose connected to a vacuum source off my pickup (idling) connected to the schrader. Also, never tried to make a fitting or had any luck with a hose that would fit into the hole. Always use a larger ID hose and hold it snug/flush against the fork, which is impossible without a 3rd hand while trying to use a hand pump.
They sell el cheapo pumps on ebay for $25 but I'd think a length of hose as mentioned earlier would be quicker to acquire and definitely work, depending on what kind of space you're working in and with.
So, I actually figured it out and now have 7-3/4 oz of fork oil in each tube. The service manual says to put one end of your tube in the fork oil you intend to put in the tube and the other end into the drain hole. I did that and had good seal on top (where Shrader valve goes). As I mentioned earlier I could not get the Mighty Vac to push air into the tube.And that is because i did not hava good seal on the bottom, so basically there was a vacum leak. Ended up using one the rubber fillers from the Mighty Vac, plugged the filler into the 3/8" in hose and then plugged that into the drain hole. Ended up sealing the hole and after a couple of minutes I had oil in the right tube. Lost a couple of drops, pulling the plug out and inserting the screw but nothing significant.
Bought a 2-cup plastic measuring cup to help make sure I got the amount right. The filler tube is 3/8" clear plastic, 16" long and holds 1/4 oz of fluid. I filled the container with 16 oz and pumped until the level in the measuring cup reached 8 oz. That plus the 1/4 oz in the tubing means I got 7-3/4 oz in my forks.
Once I got the Shrader valve back in I put in 5 psi of air.
Last edited by panz4ever; May 21, 2022 at 02:52 AM.
Check your manual, 5lb. air sounds low. I think the book calls for 15 - 20 on the front, I could be wrong on the later models. I run mine around 12-13.
Good job. I knew I should have kept up with all those misc parts in the hand pump box ....
Check your manual, 5lb. air sounds low. I think the book calls for 15 - 20 on the front, I could be wrong on the later models. I run mine around 12-13.
Good job. I knew I should have kept up with all those misc parts in the hand pump box ....
Will do re: air
There were a bunch of cone shaped rubber fillers. Kept trying until I got one to fit snugly. Took a few tries.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
There may be some guys who can suck it in with a hand pump, but I've never been able to pull that off.
....