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So on the plus side the passenger backrest and luggage rack is mounted
And on the flip side, day n+1...
...not going to be on the road as quickly as I had hoped for. Top end needed due to leaks on cylinder base gaskets.
Need to pull the primary components to determine the source of the leak. Maybe the oil seal on the inner primary that holds the mainshaft?
Couple of thoughts and questions.... (not necessarily in the order of work being done tho).
Replace cam position sensor.
Looking at the service manual I see some rubber/plastic parts on the rear fork. Figure it might be the right time to service the rear fork?
Pulling inner primary to fix cause/source of leak.
New brake pads front & rear along with flushing system & adding new brake fluid (adding Speed Bleeders for ease of work).
New spark plugs, engine oil, primary chaincase and transmission oil (replacing transmission top cover gasket as well since exhaust system is apart)
New stainless steel clamps for exhaust cover components (East Cost environment is hard on motorcycles).
Top end work (cylinders, valves, pistons & rings).
Fluid, front forks.
Rebuild kit for carb along with intake manifold.
I am not one for straying from OEM/NOS configurations on my bikes (just the way I am programed as I have aged). That said would appreciate input on up grading the rear shocks. Progressive appears to make a better mousetrap. Is the 412 series the correct replacement?
Is this the antenna connection for the radio? Found this when I pulled the left cover. (Still have to determine why the radio does not work tho.) How do I mount an antenna without the tour-pak? What/where do I get the proper one?
So with all the above there is a lot of work to do get the fibergalss and sheetmetal cleaned and polished. Should keep me occupied between everything else.
The Evo engine has a mesh tappet oil screen, which you should remove and clean every oil change.
(Personally I have never detected any dirt stucked in the screen, so nowadays I check and clean every third time I change the oil fluids).
You'll need a tool called "drag link socket" to remove the tappet oil screen cover bolt.
The cover bolt metal is very soft, so you will possibly damage it if you don't use the right tool.
Also, the bottom grove is not flat.
Look carefully and You will see that it gets deeper towards the middle so the drag link socket should be modyfied accordingly.
I can see som slight damage to that bolt on your bike.
It can be a PITA to get that bolt out if it is damaged to badly.
Disclaimer: English is not my natural language, so there are possibly a lot of spelling errors in the text above.
Last edited by K. Lindberg; Mar 12, 2022 at 04:32 AM.
The Evo engine has a mesh tappet oil screen, which you should remove and clean every oil change.
(Personally I have never detected any dirt stucked in the screen, so nowadays I check and clean every third time I change the oil fluids).
You'll need a tool called "drag link socket" to remove the tappet oil screen cover bolt.
The cover bolt metal is very soft, so you will possibly damage it if you don't use the right tool.
Also, the bottom grove is not flat.
Look carefully and You will see that it gets deeper towards the middle so the drag link socket should be modyfied accordingly.
I can see som slight damage to that bolt on your bike.
It can be a PITA to get that bolt out if it is damaged to badly.
Disclaimer: English is not my natural language, so there are possibly a lot of spelling errors in the text above.
Thank you. I have that on my list as well but forgot to mention it. I have the corrects drag link to remove all three plugs. I am going to replace them with plugs that use an allen wrench.
Cometic gaskets is the way to go.. Get the kit with the. 030" head gaskets.. but when it comes to the umbrella valve for the breathers get the OEM green ones, they're the best ones on the market. And don't forget a lot of those inner primary leaks that you have on there around the trans shaft could be due to a plugged vent on the transmission so check that as well..
Cometic gaskets is the way to go.. Get the kit with the. 030" head gaskets.. but when it comes to the umbrella valve for the breathers get the OEM green ones, they're the best ones on the market. And don't forget a lot of those inner primary leaks that you have on there around the trans shaft could be due to a plugged vent on the transmission so check that as well..
Excellent thought....will do. I'm pulling the top lid on the transmission because it it leaking as well, so checking for proper venting will be part of that then.
Last edited by panz4ever; Mar 13, 2022 at 01:31 AM.
Excellent thought....will do. I'm pulling the top lid on the transmission because it it leaking as well, so checking for proper venting will be part of that then.
Not to bust your ***** but in post 4 I recommended checking the cam position sensor.. A quick check at that point would've saved a lot of aggregation..
Not to bust your ***** but in post 4 I recommended checking the cam position sensor.. A quick check at that point would've saved a lot of aggregation..
You are correct. Missed it somehow. And it just means the aggrevation would have come sooner.
But since I've figured on doing a top end, I'll change out the cam position sensor once I have the top end off and the heads and barrles are at the shop.
Going to pull the rear fork today, clean and inspect parts for wear. That goes well I'll redo the rear brake pads after popping the puck and inspecting the caliper bore. On Friday I got new rubber on the rear wheel.
Rear fork aka swingarm ? I know you've got mad skills - If you pull it, I'd just go ahead and replace the cleve blocks or even upgrade them for the amount of work it is to remove them. It will tighten up the wiggle you can feel when they get worn. Enjoying this thread and your attention to detail while you survey the condition of the bike.
Seeping on the base gasket was common. Often cause by not warming the bike up a bit before hammering on it. Get it running if it seems good clean it up ride and see ho bad it really is or is not.
rizzo... the only reason I am not inclined to do so is the very low milage on the bike.
That said I will replace the outer nylon seals. Should have them on Friday.
This afternoon was spent cleaning the rear fork, back end (lower section below the fender rails), & replacing brake pads (caliper work comes tomorrow). Hard to tell from the "after-cleaning" pics but there was a lot of "crud" on the rear end along with a lot of surface rust on the chrome parts.
And of course I must include my "Rookie" mistake. I pulled the rear fork and absolutey forgot about the rubber mounted motor. Hey...it's my first, what can I say. I was celaning stuff and noticed that the parts were not aligned and then realized that I did not support the ***-end of the motor/tranny when I pulled the fork.
The jack I have had since the 80s. Think I got it from an advertizement in one of my EaryRider mags. Has always been a part of my tool kits on long rides (over the Rockies).. Have the jack in place and should be able to keep it in place and adjsut as needed in order to instal the axle.
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