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Hopping up my buddy’s stock 80” dyna glyde. Hot rod, not bagger. Previous plan was 10.5:1 and an EV 46.. but I don’t think that’s gonna cut it. Not enough power to run in the pack.
Now I’m thinking go ahead and port the heads and go EV5. I like the specs.. don’t know the cam. There is one locally new in the box. Maybe the EV51? It looks good on paper too and there’s one on eBay. Stock gearing in his 1998. Gonna switch out the carb for an S&S E. He’s running open with DK torque thrusts and a Ultima nose cone Iggy.
Any suggestions? How tough is it to get springs for EVO’s these days? I have some stock length chromoly pushrods I can give him.. not sure about lifters yet, stock handle that?
Before the well meaning recommendations start coming in about street power band and low duration.. torque. No. Thanks but that’s not what we’re after. We’re after bikes that kick butt between 3000 and 6000. We ride with sport bikes and use rpm. Been doing this over 30 years and I know what’s practical and 230’s duration won’t cut it. Hot Rod please.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 11, 2024 at 05:44 AM.
Stick with the 46 we used plenty of them and its a sweet spot type cam ——- but like oil every body has a bestie—- but use the 150 on the seat bee hive spring set steel tops is fine - lienweber if you want that power but you will pay for it his springs will bent the rocker covers and make them leak - again 150 on the seat 325 open is more than enough kibblewhite is the go to today for them
the variable lifters VVT they do work - not the race ones - VVT are much better street hot rod - they take some of the cam out at low engine speeds and walk it back when running over 3000 - it’s a 2 fer
Stick with the 46 we used plenty of them and its a sweet spot type cam ——- but like oil every body has a bestie—- but use the 150 on the seat bee hive spring set steel tops is fine - lienweber if you want that power but you will pay for it his springs will bent the rocker covers and make them leak - again 150 on the seat 325 open is more than enough kibblewhite is the go to today for them
the variable lifters VVT they do work - not the race ones - VVT are much better street hot rod - they take some of the cam out at low engine speeds and walk it back when running over 3000 - it’s a 2 fer
I kinda know what a ev46 with 10:1 feels and runs like. It won’t cut it with this crowd. I trust your judgement… you don’t think there’s anything to gain with more lift? Move the rpm up just a tad? If that’s a no, it means I talk to him about splitting the cases.. 89 or 91 if I could find pistons. And at that point might as well buy yet another un-assembled crate and put that in there..
Every bike in the pack is an 11 second or faster bike.
A Woods 8 @10.87:1 with stage II heads and that S&S E will get both hp/tq in the low to mid 90's..
lol 10.87:1 is kinda an odd number? Is that from a program that lets you bump compression just until it shows it’s sweet spot? Or did you run that cc’d mechanical compression and know it cranked?
It's what I ended up with for my build based on all my parts. But still it's driven by the camshaft and the minimum for that cam is 10.7:1 static..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Apr 11, 2024 at 12:44 PM.
It's what I ended up with for my build based on all my parts. But still it's driven by the camshaft and the minimum for that cam is 10.7:1 static..
I figured. I use to have a program you’d enter cam specs and you could enter pipes, carb flo.. all kinda info then bump compression until it went green meaning synergy at that mechanical compression. It would then calculate the corrected compression and even tell you what fuel is best. It was all on a floppy disc lol, never figured out how to convert it. I think it was called accelerator pro. It was pretty darn good at helping you guess gearing and even tire for mph or 1/4. I used it often during the winter to strategize before buying and trying.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 11, 2024 at 12:50 PM.
I talked to my buddy, appreciate the advice guys. He already grabbed that ev5, so I’m gonna install the 10.5:1 pistons and port the heads and set them up and see what we got. If it’s just not enough he says he can afford to either tare down next year or we’ll assemble a crate. John I don’t take light your advice but since he already bought the 5 we’ll give it a go.
‘’I’ll try to grab some pics of my modest port work. Nothing fancy. I keep it simple and just clean up the easy obvious offenders. I’ll have another buddy do the valve job then I’ll lap and set the springs up. Power on a budget.
Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 11, 2024 at 01:00 PM.
If you have a program like you had pointed to - then change the cams advance only 2 degrees in both directions to see what it does with the torque ‘
we only tune combos to the speed of torque as HP is a product of torque not the other way around
use the VVT lifters for sure and the bee hive springs same set up 150 / 300 to 325 you want 050 to coil bind what ever that gives you is the open pressure
bee hive is way more forgiving at hi rpms and does not slinkie like a flat spring will at Harley hi rpm
If you have a program like you had pointed to - then change the cams advance only 2 degrees in both directions to see what it does with the torque ‘
we only tune combos to the speed of torque as HP is a product of torque not the other way around
use the VVT lifters for sure and the bee hive springs same set up 150 / 300 to 325 you want 050 to coil bind what ever that gives you is the open pressure
bee hive is way more forgiving at hi rpms and does not slinkie like a flat spring will at Harley hi rpm
Thanks. I used the bee hive style springs from my Ultima kit, I was impressed. Ones I had compressed and held about 190.. way ore than I need here I can source some. Unfortunately the program I had was a floppy disc that’s how old. I still have the discs but no computer compatible.. could maybe loo into a floppy disc drive that converts, I suppose.
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