When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When you say unscrewed the adjuster are you talking about loosening or tightening the cable?
The adjuster adjusts the cable housing, not the cable itself. I made be housing a little longer which has the effect of making the cable shorter and thus disengages the clutch more when the lever is fully pulled in.
Just got back from a cruise, it's 100% better than before, neutral is now easy to find now that the clutch isn't dragging.
Just make sure that when the clutch is engaged (clutch lever all the way out) that there is some free play in the lever. That is, the lever is loose so that the throw out bearing isn't being ridden.
Just make sure that when the clutch is engaged (clutch lever all the way out) that there is some free play in the lever. That is, the lever is loose so that the throw out bearing isn't being ridden.
That's a good point. I've still got 1/8" free play or more at the lever.
I come from the c5 & c6 Vette world, if our clutches don't disengage properly it wreaks havoc on your blocker rings.
this thread motivated me to actually check into my neutral-finding-issues.
cable was good...hrm, maybe primary was overfull,easy enough to check. pulled the derby cover and was greeted by a deluge of motor oil.
guess i wasnt blowing it out past the breather after all. also explains why i mysteriously went through a quart and a half of oil in 1 long trip, and havent lost a drop since (filled the primary).
ahh well. outer primary is off, clutch plates are out, letting it sit a while to drip/drain some more before I attempt to pull the compensator/clutch hub.
this thread motivated me to actually check into my neutral-finding-issues.
cable was good...hrm, maybe primary was overfull,easy enough to check. pulled the derby cover and was greeted by a deluge of motor oil.
guess i wasnt blowing it out past the breather after all. also explains why i mysteriously went through a quart and a half of oil in 1 long trip, and havent lost a drop since (filled the primary).
ahh well. outer primary is off, clutch plates are out, letting it sit a while to drip/drain some more before I attempt to pull the compensator/clutch hub.
well, main seal was done 6months ago when my indy did my chain conversion for me. also did the S&S race...so not sure why this failed. doesnt really matter now....gotta fix it.
Finally read the owners manual....turns out the transmission is designed to only go to neutral from first...it won't go into neutral from second.
I noticed now that I've adjusted the cable and try to go from first, my bike hits neutral easy now.
Having owned my 1990 bike from new I had forgotten that feature! It's second nature. It has the benefit when changing down to first gear, for example to take that unbelievably tight and steep hairpin bend, that you get the gear and not neutral!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.