Crane HI-4 settings
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Krakow / Poland
Crane HI-4 settings
Hi
I just changed carb to S&S and ignition to Crane HI-4.
I have Crane set as it came out of the box. The only thing I changed is mode to RACE.
I attached photo of my ignition.
Could anybody tell me from that photo what settings I have on three dials ?
Regards
Piotr
I just changed carb to S&S and ignition to Crane HI-4.
I have Crane set as it came out of the box. The only thing I changed is mode to RACE.
I attached photo of my ignition.
Could anybody tell me from that photo what settings I have on three dials ?
Regards
Piotr
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
I'm sure you can find a manual. ( I used the Hi4E on mine)
MOST of the settings are away from the stock setting and to accomodate an other than stock motor.
1.) spark advance, this is probably advance degrees.
You want to advance the timing as much as possible with out pinging, if it pings ( due to spark timing, not fuel) retard the timing some.
2.) Rev Limit a stock top end will tolerate 6000 rpms for short periods of time- I set my rev limit at 5500 or 5800 rpms. power is dropping off at that point so it's time to shift anyways
3.) rear cylinder timing can be altered independently of front cylinder timing...best left at "0" unless you are way smarter than me.
4.) race/ VOES adjusts advance curve--- you probably want the other position for drivability. When you whack open the throttle ( or put the motor under load) vacuum drops and the VOES triggers the ignition timing to retard. This gives better torque. If the timing stays advanced the motor will ping and rattle and "bog down" there will be no usable power, and you'll have to downshift
5.) kick/elec. this will cause the plugs to fire right away in kick mode, or allow the starter to spin the motor a couple of times before lighting the spark. that makes it easier to start- and easier on the starter
mike
MOST of the settings are away from the stock setting and to accomodate an other than stock motor.
1.) spark advance, this is probably advance degrees.
You want to advance the timing as much as possible with out pinging, if it pings ( due to spark timing, not fuel) retard the timing some.
2.) Rev Limit a stock top end will tolerate 6000 rpms for short periods of time- I set my rev limit at 5500 or 5800 rpms. power is dropping off at that point so it's time to shift anyways
3.) rear cylinder timing can be altered independently of front cylinder timing...best left at "0" unless you are way smarter than me.
4.) race/ VOES adjusts advance curve--- you probably want the other position for drivability. When you whack open the throttle ( or put the motor under load) vacuum drops and the VOES triggers the ignition timing to retard. This gives better torque. If the timing stays advanced the motor will ping and rattle and "bog down" there will be no usable power, and you'll have to downshift
5.) kick/elec. this will cause the plugs to fire right away in kick mode, or allow the starter to spin the motor a couple of times before lighting the spark. that makes it easier to start- and easier on the starter
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Sep 15, 2012 at 05:20 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
+1 on the above, we usually set the rev limiter to 6200 RPM. That allows you to rev to 5800 without hitting the limiter. Definetly set it to VOES unless you have a race engine and intend to race with it. Set the advance to the center of the scale. To do this take the small brass screwdriver that came with the module and turn it gently all the way clockwise. Next turn it gently counter-clockwise until it stops noting haw many degrees it went. Now turn it back half way and that will get you started. Do the same with the rear cylinder. Leave the rear cylinder centered as with out a dyno you can't really tell weither you are helping it or hurting it. Now take the bike out and get it warmed up and in 5th gear put a load on it by going uphill and see if it pings. If it doesn't then turn the advance a little and repeat the tes untill you get some detonation. Now retard it and you should be ok. If it starts to detonate at a later date (bad fuel, heat, etc.) you can just retard it some more. Hope this helps.
John
John
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From: Krakow / Poland
Thanks for the info, appreciate it.
I found settings for Crane ignition on this forum like this:
Rev Cyl: -4
Adv Spk: 6
Mode: RACE
Do you know what it does to the engine ?
Regards
Piotr
I found settings for Crane ignition on this forum like this:
Rev Cyl: -4
Adv Spk: 6
Mode: RACE
Do you know what it does to the engine ?
Regards
Piotr
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
start with your rear cylinder at 0. Make changes on the dyno. You shouldn't run the race setting as it negates the VOES, this can lead to detonation and engine failure. Of course if you have a "race" engine and are racing it, then by all means set it there. I would bet that Harley replacement parts are expensive in Poland!!!
john
john
Last edited by miacycles; Sep 18, 2012 at 06:42 AM.
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From: Krakow / Poland
I read in Crane paper that for petrol over 93 octane SPK ADV can be set at MAX.
This is what I'm going to start with
Mode: OEM
Rear: 0
Spk Adv: 6
Regards
Piotr
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
That will work, if you get detonation, just dial it back. We tell our customers to start with less advance and work their way up so that they don't break anything.
John
John
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