I take it you mean zero at idle.
Does the oil light come on? does it work?(comes on with ignition on, and go off when started)

If it's a mechanical gauge, just find another to temporarily replace it as a test.

 

Well Schex3x, I had the gauge mounted where the stock sending unit was, but I took the mechanical gauge off this morning,befor I went to work,could'nt fire it up because didn't want to get shot by my the neighbors, LMAO! I just got home and fired it up, let it warm up cruised around the block couple times, and no light! Yes, the light works and does exactly what you said.
I guess the gauge is bad,,?? It does not make ANY rattles or knocks or pongs or pings, that I can hear!

 

Probably the gauge, just uncomfortable to see it read low.

Def keep the oil light functionable, you'll notice that right away if there's a problem.

Sounds like you ready for some miles!

 

Well, so far so good! Few mistakes I did, could have been major! One is when I was adjusting the valves, I still don't know what I did wrong, but on the 20th something time, it worked. On the timing cover, I got two of the bolts swapped around, and kind stripped some of the threads in the front top hole in the block, still a little worried about that one right now.
Couple questions, on the break in.I'm switching it to syn after its broke in,so right now I just got some regular Castrol motorcycle in it.Thats all they had at the parts store.I'v got the syn sitting in the garage, but didn't want to waste that money on short oil changes. What's the miles I need to change the oil and do you break these things in like a car, just creep it around varying the RPM'S ? THANKS FOR EVERYONE'S ADVICE!!

 

I'm still trying to get the vid to load,its a 31 secont idle clip, but youtube is still acting stupid. . .

 

I believe the most important parts of the breakin is heat management on the initial heat cycles, and quick removal of the contaminants.
I dump the oil at 1 hour, 50 miles, 400 miles, at 1000 miles switch to syn, put another 1500, then to whatever your normal interval is.

I'd keep it under 3200 up to the 400mile oil change, but do put some load on it, no lugging.

I try to keep it under 4000 to 1000 miles, then can pretty much ride it normal.

It's also nice to be able to monitor the afr's through the whole process.

Well that's my theory anyway.

 

That is waaaaay over the top, you just need to put dyno oil in and change at 500 miles, the oil filter does the rest.

 

Oil filters like to by-pass cold oil.

How does metal ever make it to the tank after something tears up?(evo filters return oil)

I gladly waste $75 worth of oil &filters in the first 1000 miles flushing the breakin crap out of my 5k+ engine.

 

Evo doesn't have enough oil pressure to unseat a oil filter bypass on a flowing filter

Go 500 miles on the oil change, different theory's on break in and can be a best oil thread. Target is to keep pressure (load) in the cylinders, don't lug it as mentioned and resist WOT for a while, change speeds up and down on a long straight stretch. Personally I ride a break in like any other day but limit idle time because heat is your friend during a break in but can quickly become your enemy

 

One wouldn't think so, but if you dead-head or highly restrict the return, how much pressure does it make?

I don't think there's a relief valve on the return.

How does anything larger than 30 microns ever make it to the oil tank?