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evo motors are the easiest and the most forgiving + 1 on the drive it like you normally do well that is if your a human being -
antique bikes that shair oil and gas in the same tank with different compartments - when the motor is new will boil the gas in the shaired tank from the hot oil, i have seen the paint peel on some -
evos dont have that added little drama knowing the fuel tank is 60 plus years old and soldered together not welded
...bikes that share oil and gas in the same tank with different compartments - when the motor is new will boil the gas in the shaired tank from the hot oil, i have seen the paint peel on some -
His opening remarks do, regarding improved manufacturing methods, including cylinder honing. What he omits to say is that manufacturers are also using superior materials and design, in large part due to EPA noise and emissions regulations.
One of the most noteworthy improvements in recent engine design is the reduction of 'parasitic losses'. By using superior materials the reciprocating parts can be reduced in weight, friction losses can be reduced, also inertia losses. A simple example is the 'beehive' valve spring, which use a smaller diameter spring keeper, also light spring (because of the reducing diameter coils), but these are possible due to lighter weight valves. So the power from the crankshaft, required to open each valve, is lower. This approach continues throughout even our latest Harley engines (and my S&S Evo!).
One of the reasons synthetic oils are suitable, despite being thinner than p1ss, is that running clearances between mating moving parts are also less. I could go on! Such things do offer the prospect of shorter running in times.
Let's let the opinions fly!!
Rebuilt my 96 road king, Crane hi-lift cam,
have had 2 crane cams fail over the years with poor quality hardening
lunched both motors
I'd switch to an Andrews cam as their quality and longevity is from my experience far better than crane.
that apart running in, give it a few short hard full throttle blasts to force the rings hard out against the bores and bed them in
change oil after 50 miles to get rid of any crap that has got into motor
babying motors and running them in slowly usually glazes the bores and from my experience you end up with a smoking slow motor with lots of blowby and poor performance
I just rode mine after the ball hone and re-ring. I gave it some good full throttle runs up to 3k and let it engine brake all by itself. My first fifty miles were mostly spent on tracking down a bad leak though....
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Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
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Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
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