I am having electical difficulties on 99 FXDL. I just got the bike only had 14K miles anyways battery goes dead won't charge so i got a new battery. Did not fix the problem. when i put voltage meter on battery it says 11.75 or maybe 12.2 never over that even after charging for half hour or so. When bike is started volt meter stays at 11.75? I am not good at electrical but my next step was to unplug regulator. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get plug undone(make me feel stupid to even ask) Anyways here is a picture of the connector. I am thinking there is supposed to be a tab that is broke off. here is picture. Please help was so excited to get this bike (first harley) now just very disappointed. Not great with electrical tried reading threads and feel lost.

 

just unhooked battery and tested it said 12.42. Its a new battery(which i prob did not need)

 

I don't know if this will help?
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....GE%20REGULATOR

 

thanks for the link still not sure how to undo plug and don't wanna break it. Anyone have any idea's I'm really hoping its the regulator but i'm not even sure that would cause the volts not to go up while running. I feel like i could replace a regulator i would not feel comfortable nor do i have the tools to pull the primary

 

The diagram in the link says there are lock lock pins inside connector. How do they work?

 

it's missing the tab u push down on to release it. try to get thin pin in there and try to lift up and pull a part. the tab should be were your thumb is.

 

In the diagram the pin housing slips over the socket housing: 13 slides into 14
Take some WD 40 and try to clean the dirt out of the connector and slide a little screw driver in the slot to see if you can find a little release tab.

Here are some things to check:

Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

Well right before work I tried to get it undone again took it loose from frame pulled rubber cover all the way off and voila there was a tab you could not get to without pulling rubber cover all the way off

But then had to go to work