When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
If you apply changes from a tuning run to a different base map (pvv) that the one you used to generate the changes you will not get the results you want. I really don't see the point in doing that. after rereading your post...
If you mean that you save the pvv file with 14.6 but flash the bike with 13.8, then you will not get tuning data with narrow O2 sensors since you are not in closed loop. You should always tune with the same map (pvv file) that you use to apply the changes
So if I'm useing 2 Maps, one for tuning with the required items turned off and one for normal riding. I shouldn't use the log I got from the tune map to tune both the tune map and the run map??
Just wanted to share another great experience with Fuel Moto. I ordered the Power Vision tuner, fuel moto air cleaner, V&H power duals and balckout rounds on Monday. They were at my house on Saturday. I installed everything on Sunday (an all day affair as I took my time to make sure I got it right).
I love the look of the black pipes on my black Street Glide. The tuner was real easy to use, Jamie of Fuel Moto had already loaded the correct tune. And I mean correct, this thing is dialed in, no decel pop, no hesitation. It runs great.
Now I need to play with the tuner and try to figure out all the options available, like displaying the guages, etc. I have no idea how that works yet. I will have to find a full manual to operate it.
On your question, your PE settings look reasonable. I have mine set to 4500 off - 5000 on, so yours are pretty close to that. Good job on the tuning.
My stock PE AFR settings were goofy, going richer-leaner every few seconds during a sustained WOT event. I assume that's to protect the engine for long bouts at WOT, but since I won't ever do that I set all values to 13.0, which is the same as I have for 100KPA in the AFR table. That forces 13.0 at WOT even in high-altitude areas where you can't hit 100KPA. I have 13.5's at 90 KPA in the AFR table above 1750 RPM.
These were the stock enable-disable settings for my '07 and I haven't changed them:
PE RPM enable: 5500
PE RPM disable: 5300
PE TP enable: 95
PE TP disable: 90.9
Does anyone see a reason to change these considering the PE AFR settings I have? Are the above settings valid if both parameters are hit? IOW, will PE enable only when I hit 5500 and 95%, or when just one criterion is met? I assume it's the former, and if so it might be better to set RPM lower, like where you two have yours set.
Thanks, Dennis. IClick, good questions. I was primarily concerned with the "overlap" problem myself. I may widen my range on the RPM's and check for consistency between TP and RPM. Thx for the input.
With all do respect, I find the DJ product descriptions and capabilities very confusing. Can the bias table be viewed in WinPV? If so, where is it ?
Thanks, Kranky.
With all do respect, I find the DJ product descriptions and capabilities very confusing. Can the bias table be viewed in WinPV? If so, where is it ?
Do you mean the Closed-Loop Bias table? If so, you'll see it only if you have a cable-throttle bike ('07 and earlier) or one of a very few '08 TBW calibrations. Mine is under "Fuel > Closed Loop".
Some of the confusion is present because Harley is constantly changing their calibrations, so we can't blame the PV for at least some of the arcane rules and configurations that we see.
Does anyone have any thoughts about retarding spark advance when cranking? I have 255 cams installed which increase CCP, sometimes causing the starter to bog a bit. The battery has been tested good and all connections are clean, and although the sporadic sluggishness is never enough to be a problem I'm wondering if changing the spark advance during cranking would help.
Here's my current Closed-Throttle Spark table, and my values at 750 rpm in the Spark Advance table are 13 for both front and rear. During cranking I'm not sure what RPM is in effect, but I would guess lower than 750. The CTS table is only effectual ≤147°F, so I guess if I need to retard spark at any temperature I would need to change the values in the SA table.
Do you mean the Closed-Loop Bias table? If so, you'll see it only if you have a cable-throttle bike ('07 and earlier) or one of a very few '08 TBW calibrations. Mine is under "Fuel > Closed Loop".
Some of the confusion is present because Harley is constantly changing their calibrations, so we can't blame the PV for at least some of the arcane rules and configurations that we see.
Well, this is true for Baggers but Dyna's didn't go TBW until 2012. I still have a cable-throttle on my 2010 Dyna and have the Closed Loop Bias Table set to 700 across the board, per Fuel Moto. I think Softail went TBW in 2011.
Do you mean the Closed-Loop Bias table? If so, you'll see it only if you have a cable-throttle bike ('07 and earlier) or one of a very few '08 TBW calibrations. Mine is under "Fuel > Closed Loop".
Some of the confusion is present because Harley is constantly changing their calibrations, so we can't blame the PV for at least some of the arcane rules and configurations that we see.
I am seeing a lot of "requires pro level" in my PV manual. I do not have
a Bias table in my version. I'm thinking i need the auto tune to have the
"pro level" functionality.
Lot's of conversations going on. Wanted to give a post tuning update. Set-up is 2011 RKC 103 w/ FM 2-1-2, Jackpots, SE AC, and SE 204 cams. Road today about 40 miles in 86 deg. heat. Scoot ran great, no decel popping, very strong throughout the RPM range. However, I noticed two things, one of which concerns me. First, I noticed that my idle MAP hovered around 40ish. My understanding is that at idle, the bikes idle MAP should be around 30ish. Don't know if this is an issue or not.
Second, bike ran very hot, at least relative to history and expectations. I got caught is a couple of slow-downs around traffic lights on my way into the country, and the ET quickly rose to 280, and even after running for a while at 55-60 mph, temp never dropped below 266. In fact, slowing down to 40 mph for speed zones would send the ET right back up to about 275. Yes, it was a hot day here, but this seems to be too hot ET. I have one of those fork mounted air foils which I just put on, so this may have something to do with it. I am going to remove this and see if it helps, but I would appreciate any feedback on the 2 issues anyone can offer, especially the excessive ET. Thanks,
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.