Power Vision Information Thread
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 531
Likes: 4
From: Chile Flats, AZ
3.5 FMs DT
What were you running before the change?
And how would you rate the reduction in sound levels?
TIA - JetD
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 871
Likes: 7
From: Manchester, NH
Sound wise I like it and can hear the radio and ipod just fine. I like the deep throated sound. When I want a little more noise it's just a matter of removing one allen head bolt and your done. It's a louder, deeper, throatier sound. Some of my radio sounds are cancelled out by this; but, that's my messed up hearing after too many years of loud pipes. I always wear earplugs now to lessen the tinnitus and headaches from long trips exposed to wind, engine and exhaust noise. I think my bike has a little more pep with the insert. Must be just enough of a back pressure increase.
These are louder then the fatshotz but sound a lot better. It's a different kind of louder. So far I'm liking these and they appear to be a keeper. Then again sound is so subjective.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
As far as the % issue, it's useless without manually verifying the VE's that changed. Yet, the majority seem to rely on it solely as the end of their tuning runs. That is simply wrong, yet advertised as "tune without needing a computer".
You can continue to make assumptions of the issues being challenged if you so wish. If someone challenges a certain post you make want to simply ignore the post if it ruffles your feathers that bad. The only way to bring out the factual info, and eliminate the guessing, is to challenge the info. A little thicker skin and you'll be fine.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: Morganton, NC
Seems to be mostly guessing going so of course the info needs to be challenged. I read every page of this thread and it's one guess after another. Pertaining to the unit itself, I'm happy with it. But DJ needs to come out with clear cut guidance on how it works. Perhaps that's why there's so much guesswork going on.
As far as the % issue, it's useless without manually verifying the VE's that changed. Yet, the majority seem to rely on it solely as the end of their tuning runs. That is simply wrong, yet advertised as "tune without needing a computer".
You can continue to make assumptions of the issues being challenged if you so wish. If someone challenges a certain post you make want to simply ignore the post if it ruffles your feathers that bad. The only way to bring out the factual info, and eliminate the guessing, is to challenge the info. A little thicker skin and you'll be fine.
As far as the % issue, it's useless without manually verifying the VE's that changed. Yet, the majority seem to rely on it solely as the end of their tuning runs. That is simply wrong, yet advertised as "tune without needing a computer".
You can continue to make assumptions of the issues being challenged if you so wish. If someone challenges a certain post you make want to simply ignore the post if it ruffles your feathers that bad. The only way to bring out the factual info, and eliminate the guessing, is to challenge the info. A little thicker skin and you'll be fine.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
From: USA
Has anyone worked with the EGR tables yet? I have been hoping some instructions would come forth. I had a handfule of cells maxed out at 127.5. On my last run, AT prompted me to adust the CI. Now my 103 is a 111. Not sure that EGR adjustments are necessary now. But there are values in there. Have no clue what impact they had or now have given that my CI adjusted and my VE's were dropped proportionately.
Secondly, I saw in the documentation that there is to be IVO settings available as well. My map doesn't have it available. Might be just as well. It it was there, I'd just be able to stare at it wondering if it were correct or not.
Secondly, I saw in the documentation that there is to be IVO settings available as well. My map doesn't have it available. Might be just as well. It it was there, I'd just be able to stare at it wondering if it were correct or not.
The CD table will affect the rpm range the most at the lower map column and affect the cells less as it goes out across the map columns. The effect will start out strong and diminish as it heads towards 60 kpa. So it's alot of experimenting to get it just right, if you even can. You may be trying to lower a hump or spike at say 3000 rpm and 40 kpa. As you bring down the 40 kpa column you will see the cells to the left of 40 kpa come down even more than the 40 column which may now produce a valley you didn't want. I would try it little by little and see what happens. If push comes to shove you may end up having to raise the CI to get what you want. But after tons of reading on this subject, the CD table corrections will get your VE's more accurate than just raising the CI so I would play with that first. I had 2 cells max out on the rear and adjusted the CD and it was enough to get them below 127 without raising the CI. If I had to do it over I would have started adjusting the CD table as soon as I starting seeing the high spots instead of waiting until they actually maxed out. Like I said, it's just trial and error. Adjust and observe the results, rinse and repeat if necessary.
Be warned, messing with the CD tables will test your patience. The only way to know is to play with it and come back and look at the graph.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Near Monza (Italy)
Popping and stall....
Hi
I own a FLHRSI 2006, Fuel Injected, bought used.
The only mods are:
A/C Screamin Eagle
A pair of muffler slip-on (I think without dB-killer)
A stage1 calibration (now the Power Vision).
The problem come when the bike is warmed, it start popping out the muffler and when I stop to a redlight the idle drop very much and sometime stall.
Thinking a lean condition, I bought a Power Vision and I have increased, in the VE table, the value in the 0 and 2 TP column.
The popping has decreased but still remain in the low range of RPM (1000-1700).
The stall still remain.
The strange is that this behaviour is only when the bike is warmed, not before.
Sorry for my english, I hope is understandable.
Thanks to all those who read.
I own a FLHRSI 2006, Fuel Injected, bought used.
The only mods are:
A/C Screamin Eagle
A pair of muffler slip-on (I think without dB-killer)
A stage1 calibration (now the Power Vision).
The problem come when the bike is warmed, it start popping out the muffler and when I stop to a redlight the idle drop very much and sometime stall.
Thinking a lean condition, I bought a Power Vision and I have increased, in the VE table, the value in the 0 and 2 TP column.
The popping has decreased but still remain in the low range of RPM (1000-1700).
The stall still remain.
The strange is that this behaviour is only when the bike is warmed, not before.
Sorry for my english, I hope is understandable.
Thanks to all those who read.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,393
Likes: 2,060
From: N. Atlanta Burbs
The above post was moved from the forum body to here for obvious reasons.
Happy Thanksgiving to all...
-Wiz
Happy Thanksgiving to all...
-Wiz
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