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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #3661  
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Originally Posted by Delta
Jamie, I was able to copy my binary file to my PC but don't remember how I did it. I think that was part of the question. Would you explain how to do that? Thanx
The first time you connect your Power Vision to the WinPV software, upon connection a dialog box will come up "Original Tune found, would you like to save as a backup", if you select yes it will save your original binary on your PC under Documents>Power Vision>Original Tunes. You can also backup the original tune in WinPv by going to "Get ECM Data" as well.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #3662  
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Did you use the basic autotune for this?
Yes, I auto tuned with both tables. I'm pretty sure auto tune will not change these settings, you have to manual change the values.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #3663  
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Powervision is awesome. It certainly does more than I can comprehend just starting out. I have done a couple autotune runs and modified the tunes to the new datalog. I have a fair amount of decal popping when rolling off the throttle to shift gears. The bike has a SE air Cleaner and Reinhart 2:1 Exhaust What settings should I be looking at to adjust? Thank you ahead of time.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #3664  
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Hey prostar, I went back a few pages and copied what Jamie from FM said about decel popping:



As far as decel popping I would go into the AFR/Lambda table in the far left column and from 1750-5000 RPM's richen it by .5 AFR (or the Lambda equivalent) You can also lower the decel enleanment slightly, however if you are running a FM calibration that is already likely very low. Before adjusting for decel popping I would make sure your base tune is where it should be, especially on a new build. I would first run three 20 minute sessions and accept the learned corrections, when the tune is where it should be then go after the decel popping.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 05:45 PM
  #3665  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
Hey prostar, I went back a few pages and copied what Jamie from FM said about decel popping:



As far as decel popping I would go into the AFR/Lambda table in the far left column and from 1750-5000 RPM's richen it by .5 AFR (or the Lambda equivalent) You can also lower the decel enleanment slightly, however if you are running a FM calibration that is already likely very low. Before adjusting for decel popping I would make sure your base tune is where it should be, especially on a new build. I would first run three 20 minute sessions and accept the learned corrections, when the tune is where it should be then go after the decel popping.
I saw that but was more concerned because mine is mostly happening when shifting and rolling of throttle. Thank you though for doing that.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #3666  
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Originally Posted by prostar
I saw that but was more concerned because mine is mostly happening when shifting and rolling of throttle. Thank you though for doing that.
I may be missing something, but when you are shifting, even when going from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc.. - when you roll off the the throttle, you are deceling for a sec or two. I don't think this is any different than downshifting, other than the time duration. So my interpretation would be what Jamie said applies to your situation. If I am wrong, I am all ears, love learning about all this stuff, because I have had the same problem, although it seems to be going away with Autotuning.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 12:34 AM
  #3667  
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Delta, Jamie,
Thanks for the help! I believe I should be able to hit the ground running now on the simple things. After reading the Autotune section, I imagine it'll be a while before I get that adventurous.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 11:10 AM
  #3668  
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Well I'll be trying that next and I'll let you know how it works.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #3669  
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Trying to decide! I have 2009 RKC, SE 103 BB, SE255, ACR's, Rinehart 3.5" slip-ons, no cat. No further changes will be made. 50% of my riding is two up cruising long trips 60-80 mph. I ride about 15K per year. Some riding in mountains over 10,000 ft. Lots of very sharp narrow switchbacks. I've had the SEPST since new and have maxed out on improvements via my many DIY Smart Tune runs. Get 40-43 mpg. No popping or pinging. Bike runs fine. But, I believe it can run even better. I have narrowed my choices down to (1) A PV with AT-100 Pro or (2) A thorough 6 hour dyno tune at a HD dealer shop located in Xenia OH. The cost for that will be around $350. I like the idea of having the PV AT Pro in case I want to tune. But, in spite of my considerable mechanical and engineering abilities, I don't think I can do the tuning as well as a pro using a dyno. I could be wrong about that. But, I have never seen DIY tune results (no dyno used) using the PV AT compared to a dyno one done by a pro. I know that depends on the "pro". But I'm assuming someone who has the credentials and experience. Has anybody ever made this comparison? I've looked all over the net for that comparison. Nothing. I'd just hate to spend over $800 more for tuning gear when I could have spent $350 for as good or better results. Has anybody seen anything like that?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #3670  
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Originally Posted by Bingee
Trying to decide! I have 2009 RKC, SE 103 BB, SE255, ACR's, Rinehart 3.5" slip-ons, no cat. No further changes will be made. 50% of my riding is two up cruising long trips 60-80 mph. I ride about 15K per year. Some riding in mountains over 10,000 ft. Lots of very sharp narrow switchbacks. I've had the SEPST since new and have maxed out on improvements via my many DIY Smart Tune runs. Get 40-43 mpg. No popping or pinging. Bike runs fine. But, I believe it can run even better. I have narrowed my choices down to (1) A PV with AT-100 Pro or (2) A thorough 6 hour dyno tune at a HD dealer shop located in Xenia OH. The cost for that will be around $350. I like the idea of having the PV AT Pro in case I want to tune. But, in spite of my considerable mechanical and engineering abilities, I don't think I can do the tuning as well as a pro using a dyno. I could be wrong about that. But, I have never seen DIY tune results (no dyno used) using the PV AT compared to a dyno one done by a pro. I know that depends on the "pro". But I'm assuming someone who has the credentials and experience. Has anybody ever made this comparison? I've looked all over the net for that comparison. Nothing. I'd just hate to spend over $800 more for tuning gear when I could have spent $350 for as good or better results. Has anybody seen anything like that?
I know you probably would want somebody with dyno experience to answer this, but I hate to see a question not addressed for so long.

I love the PV but it does take time and effort on your part to make it successful, so I guess it depends how interested you are in becoming completely involved with your tune. You had really better love playing with your tune to pay about $450 more dollars to get the PV set up.

One of the biggest advantages of the PV is being able to change your tune if you mod your bike, but you said you were done so that is another con for the PV.

But if you love tuning, you can develop different tunes if you have different driving desires, like for mileage, max performance, etc - con for the dyno.

Food for thought, good luck, maybe somebody else can add to this.
 

Last edited by HD Pilot; Jan 25, 2013 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Wording
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