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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #3921  
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Originally Posted by The Q
...I was wondering if anyone could suggest where I should start at with the Speedometer Calibration value to get it back in line....
Here's a short cut I used instead of using a GPS. Around where I live there are many of those "speed check" radar contraptions. I was always reading higher speed on my speedo than what showed on those devices, so I did some trial and error with my PV until I was right in the ballpark with whatever reading I got from multiple of those things. Not scientific or gee whiz cool, but I've got my speedo in the range where it's somewhat accurate by "their" standards vs. mine - and is also in the general adjustment range of what had been posted (much) earlier in this thread by iClick.

Edit: I ended up with a calibration setting of 2316 "Pulses per Km".
 

Last edited by WetSider; Mar 11, 2013 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 07:25 AM
  #3922  
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Originally Posted by stailjim61
So explain to us exactly what you have been doing. From step 1 to step X. How have you been making changes to BOTH tables? Start from the minute you fire up the bike, how you identified the knock, at exactly which temp, what change you made to table X and what change you made to table Y. Tell us what the air temp was (how did you determine this), tell us what the engine temp was (how did you determine this), tell us how you determined it was temp related and the exact change you made. How did you determine the knock was from air temp versus engine temp? Was it from both? Did you make changes to both tables? Why? Why not? One liners don't tell us much. So please, explain exactly what you have been doing...and just as important....why. You said..."So, on my FLHTC, I use the Adjust By Air Temp and Adjust by Head Temp". I, as I'm sure others as well, want to hear the entire story. You walked into this one dude....step up to plate. Tell us your secret.....no guessing either, lol.
You can log the data by selecting IAT (Intake Air Temperature) and Engine Temperature. You then sort through the log table to find when timing is pulled and correlate to the IAT and ET. Frankly, I found these tables not be very effective. The fidelity on the Y Axis on Engine Temperature is not refined enough. The steps are way to far apart. The IAT while running is usually fifteen degrees above ambient temperature. I am playing with the IAT a little....the ET can not do much. DJ says that the table axis can not be adjusted...they come from HD. Each strategy may be different. You have to look at your tune to see what can be done.

We were riding in OKC in July of 2012 in 115 degree heat. The engine would ping even while going up a mild grade. This was before these two tables were unlocked by the latest firmware revision. I am NOT going back to OKC to refine the tables. Have fun.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #3923  
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I did a really long log file today with most of my riding in 6Th gear 55 mph +/- 5 mph. I did some interstate running 75 mph for about 15 miles. I did a couple of passes off interstate two lane roads and some hills. Louisiana doesn't have much for hills.

My log file still showed some knock retard events on the front cylinder only. Mostly between 1800 - 2250 rpm and 59 - 64 kpa. Each time I was in 6Th gear around 16-20 TP. one event pulled out up to 7* max and another pulled out 4* max. The rest were all the usually 2* with the timing being added back quickly. I had 6 events in 140 miles of riding, all on the front cylinder. The air temperture was mid 60's. Engine temp was running between 214 and 234 with the knock events mostly near the 214 side. That is head temp, not oil.

Question 1. Could I have hit a hill and lugged it a little to get these events as I was in 6Th gear?

Question 2. How much timing retard is considered a significant knock event?

Question 3. I pulled from 1* to .5* from 1750 to 2250 rpm in the 60 kpa column, so am I taking too little timing out at that rate to do any good? I wanted to take my time and not get too aggressive with my changes.

Question 4. Should I even worry about a 2* knock event?
 

Last edited by Watchfuliz; Mar 12, 2013 at 06:50 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #3924  
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Originally Posted by wurk_truk
Wrong answer to the question for sure. Lemme look and I will give the correct answer. Here's the deal, so you know. It IS best to tune in spring and fall. Nothing wrong with Summer tuning, but this will work backwards.

In the cooler months, and engine can use more timing and one gets to enjoy a bit more pep and the engine LIKES that timing.

When the weather heats up, it becomes too much timing, the engine pings. One would THINK... go pull timing back out... THAT will screw the tune for two seasons if one does that. Instead, there is a Spark Temp Correction table somewhere. It will look like a spark table but have a bunch of zeros and a few negative numbers the closer to the bottom and right side. The upside axis will be in degrees of temp. Upper is lower outside temp, lower is high outside temp.

Most NEVER fool with this table as it usually is decent or folks shouldn't change crap they don't know about, but here's the deal.

At higher temps (lower on the chart) and more to the left (Higher MAP or AFR)... those negative numbers say to the ECM how much timing to pull out of the ambient temp is such-and-such.

Tune when it is cool. Then in summer, if it pings, go chase that ping down. Say... you find it pinging at 3500rpms and 60 MAP. See how MUCH it is pulling timing wise when you find it, too. Then, instead of going to the spark tables and start removing timing, go to spark tables and increase that negative number around your 3500/60 by like a degree of timing. Work THAT until it quits pinging and then summer AND spring/fall the timing will be in a way better spot than having quick retard or learned timing pulling a whole bunch of timing.

Besides the obvious on summer/ spring timing... the temp table works better when really hot because timing can end up being a bitch. The ECM will pull some fast retard... it doesn't go away, so then it starts keeping the timing pull in learned timing. Once the timing IS pulled, now the engine will run hotter and hotter because TOO much timing is being pulled. Fast retards job is to pull WAY more timing than needed to protect the engine, NOT to make it run correctly.

I will now go try to find that table in PV.
It sounds like you're guessing. Most of us know how temperature affects detonation. Most of us know that we want to affect timing changes based on heat and temps. Most of us know we don't want to pull timing across the board when a ping is HEAT related. Most of know what you just repeated from another source. What we want to know is what the 3 tables DynoJet gave us mean. How does each relate to temp specific criteria? When would one table be used versus another. How would changes be made to one table? Why we should NOT make changes to one table and MAKE changes to another table on a temp related knock. It doesn't sound like you have much experience with the PV. And that's ok. But the last thing we need is guessing.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 08:54 PM
  #3925  
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Originally Posted by stailjim61
It sounds like you're guessing. Most of us know how temperature affects detonation. Most of us know that we want to affect timing changes based on heat and temps. Most of us know we don't want to pull timing across the board when a ping is HEAT related. Most of know what you just repeated from another source. What we want to know is what the 3 tables DynoJet gave us mean. How does each relate to temp specific criteria? When would one table be used versus another. How would changes be made to one table? Why we should NOT make changes to one table and MAKE changes to another table on a temp related knock. It doesn't sound like you have much experience with the PV. And that's ok. But the last thing we need is guessing.
Beam me up Scottie...
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #3926  
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I did some basic autotunes late last year with no problems.

I switched over to WB sensors and did three pro auto tunes this past weekend.

My problem is with the software. Late last year I got a new computer. I installed the winPV on it and it crashes the computer every time I run the winPV software. It is windows 7 32 bit. I have un-installed it twice, no luck, still doesn't run.

I installed it on my laptop which has the windows 7 64 bit system. The winPV runs on it but will not display all the info for the tunes even after running 'update tune using PV' in the drop down menu.

I took my PV to work and hooked it up on my windows 7 32 bit computer, and everything works!! I was able to see all info including VE tables and all.

SOOO... what gives? Has anyone else had software problems?? I don't do well on phones due to hearing problems.. Thanks in advance for any and all help..

Been lurking and learning for a while....

Jim busby
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #3927  
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Originally Posted by neon65
I installed it on my laptop which has the windows 7 64 bit system. The winPV runs on it but will not display all the info for the tunes even after running 'update tune using PV' in the drop down menu.
Are you in WinPV "pro" mode on your laptop?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 09:56 AM
  #3928  
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neon65
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Thanks, spelk3. I remember doing that before but had forgot about it. Knew it had to be something simple...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 03:35 AM
  #3929  
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goats
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is there any way to view the logs other than excel ?

i am not a fan of the way they are displayed, would rather see everything in one line or area.... right now i have to scroll down to see more info for any given time/event.

for example, front cylinder rpm, map tps, knock etc all in one line

i know the information is all there just not organized very well (if there is a way to make excel display this way i do not know how)
 
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 08:58 AM
  #3930  
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Watchfuliz
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Not that I know of. I usually scroll the last line with the descriptions to the top of the page and then freeze it so it is always visible while I scroll down. Even if you could put it in one row you would have to scroll it see it all though.
 
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