Originally Posted by BMCsteve

Hey guys, quick question - If I pull the master fuse (I'm installing a load equalizer) do i need to reload my map?

thanks
steve

Originally Posted by stailjim61

Different set ups will affect the VE's even if small. Setting up your CLB and then AT defaults to 700. AT pulling 4* will affect them too. So in an AT run you have different CLB then PV changes it to 700 for the run. Then it pulls timing to be safe. Both will yield different results, even if small. Personally I think there is way too much hype and drama about CLB's. The 02's work their best at 450. That's where they're centered. Can you run higher?...sure. It doesn't make much of a difference AFR wise until you get well up into 700's. But then you're forcing the sensors to work outside of the area they were designed to work best. Can one get away with it? Yep. You just need to put sensors on your yearly maintenance chart because they won't last as long.

Here's the easiest way to deal with timing. Set up a .PVV just like you would for a Log Tuner run. Save whatever you need for your cal. EX: TPS cals save fr and rr VE, AFR, and fr and rr spark. Go datalog a nice ride. Then use log tuner. Take the check marks out of VE fr and rr so it doesn't dork up your VE work. It will just make changes to your timing tables. It will only import your timing changes. Much much easier than trying to analyze a datalog to determine exaclty where the knock occured. It's a tad difficult to determine EXACTLY where to pull timing based on datalog. So, let the Log Tuner do it for you. Just remember to take the check marks out of fr and rr VE's.

Originally Posted by stailjim61

Cal is short for calibration, same as map, same as tune. Don't be afraid to ask. Unless you're a pro tuner this stuff is hard to keep up with. Every question asked helps someone, either now or down the road.

Originally Posted by wurk_truk

Also, here is a HUGE area most DIYers miss, because it IS hard to do.

This IS easier on a true Lambda tune from a touring bike as opposed to half lambda like on new can bus bikes, or AFR tunes from 2009 and back.

That is trying to get the correct VEs as low as possible.

Lower the idle to 800 rpms. Gather data, at idle for that 800 rpms. On a AFR DBW bike? That will be the 5% column most times. Then... see if you can use second gear and the brake and clutch and TRY to get... say the 7% and even 10% columns at that low idle.

Next is to put the bike to the regular 1000 rpm idle. (I set all bike to 1000 rpms at normal idle and the lowest I would EVER go is 960). With the bike all nice and hot (200*), collect data from idle, looking at the histogram, try, while sitting on the side stand, getting another cell to the right, or even two.

Take a ride to gather data. Using second gear, the brake and clutch... watch the histogram and TRY to get as many cells to the right in the 1000 and 1125 rows. No need to use heavy braking or clutching. One is looking for a balance that ruins neither to get as many EASY columns in those rows to dial in.

The further up in RPMs one gets the more cells to the right one should REALLY try to get. 1500 rpms should be filled completely, as also the 1750 row.

This IS hard tedious work. But it IS what I take time with on a wheel.

When done, one should be able to be in 6th gear at 1500 rpms and whack the thottle and NOT get a 'bog', a rattle, bucking, popping, etc. It will NOT ramp RPMs all that quick, but if the very bottom is tuned and the VEs are correct... the bike should climb out with NO drama.

When I talk about 'nice manners' THIS is one of the things I tune for to make a bike ride nice..... And... I tune for a completely nice bike to ride. that IS always my goal. NOT 'numbers' at all. One does NOT ride numbers, one rides a bike and a bike should NEVER buck, pop, sputter, cough, stutter, etc. If... if a big cam comes into play, to get tuned, sometimes it is simply impossible to get a bike to simply pull out, by itself, by slowly releasing the clutch with NO throttle added. ANd... you guys think of this: at idle, when you release the clutch, does the engine spped up? Nope! And THAT is THE reason to lower the idle speed and gather data, adjust the VEs at 800 rpms for a bit. Nice and SMOOTH is whats happening.

Right now? I have my own personal 120r tuned to pull out nice at about 1600 rpms. BIG cam and BIG cubes with BIF throttle body. ALL of this hurts gathering data down low... more overlap makes it HARD.

I NEED to work it some more to TRY to gather VEs at the lower RPMs. Big assed 102r? Makes the whole dyno shake like a quake at such low rpms. But... if one sneaks from good cells and collects even one cell at a time, it usually SHOULD pull in.

There, I gave up a GOOD tuning secret for you, Jim. It DOES fit into your own strategies, too. DIYers SHOULD strive to get a nice mannered bike. I know that most will NOT take the time, but for those that will... it IS whats happening.

Originally Posted by goats

1 question and one request

question
does anyone know the difference between simple csv and pro xy , if so what are the pros and cons between them ?

Originally Posted by oldhippie

So here I am after 4 AT-Basic runs. I'm getting there. a few 5% numbers and one or two 9% numbers... but I think I am close. The bike is really running nice. It's running a tad hotter than I would like it, but that isn't a big deal now, but I will want to fix that before July.. when it gets really hot here in New England.

The seat of the pants Dyno and just overall feel and sound of the bike is fantastic right now. it seems to start a little harder than it did previously. Is there a way to fix that?

Here are my VE tables.

Originally Posted by Boston Chris

Hippie.....there is a cranking fuel table. You can add a little more cranking fuel at different temps. Most people that talk about the cranking fuel adjustments seem to make about a 10 to 20 % adjustment. id start small. Try increasing 10% of the original value and see if it gets better. if not add another 10%. i bet you will find this will work well for you.