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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Is there a Power Vision for Dummys? You guys are way over my head.I have tried and tried but just don't understand. I buy the unlock for $200 and with help from FM and flash my bike no problem.Bike runs good. V&H dresser duals FM stage 1 AC and V&H slip ons.Now what do I do? I don't get the rest! Auto Tune and Trip Logs and all the other stuff are Way to technical for me. I'm 68 and have owned 18 new Harleys. Proud member of VNVMC here in Jersey.
Is there a Power Vision for Dummys? You guys are way over my head.I have tried and tried but just don't understand. I buy the unlock for $200 and with help from FM and flash my bike no problem.Bike runs good. V&H dresser duals FM stage 1 AC and V&H slip ons.Now what do I do? I don't get the rest! Auto Tune and Trip Logs and all the other stuff are Way to technical for me. I'm 68 and have owned 18 new Harleys. Proud member of VNVMC here in Jersey.
If you are happy with the way it runs. You are done. If you do not want to mess with it and want to dial it in you can have it dyno tunned with a shop that uses and familar with the power vision.
Question about spark knock, I'm recording KnockCntF, KnockCntR, Spark Knock F and Spark Knock R. Most of the time the when one of the KnockCnt's gets incremented there is a matching Spark Knock event but about 10% of the time I see the KnockCnt get incremented with no matching Spark Knock event. Is this normal?
I have a Pcv now and my motor is a 88. I am doing big bore 95 with 203 cams but I have a 06 dyna with the better heads and six speed. I found a Pcv map for 2005 softail with the motor work and cams but the bike itself has different heads than mine. So my question is the map is going to be pretty close but not perfect so I have been thinking about picking up a pv1 from fuel motto for the auto tune feature if you guys would think it would be better suited for the needs I am about to experience.
General question about PV, and apologies if it's buried somewhere in the previous 600 pages of this thread:
So the PV has autotune capability, but I have to buy the PV itself as well as the autotune kit, right? If I just purchase the basic PV (roughly $400 from what i gather), it doesn't give me the capability to autotune unless I shell out another few hunder bucks for the autotune kit?
General question about PV, and apologies if it's buried somewhere in the previous 600 pages of this thread:
So the PV has autotune capability, but I have to buy the PV itself as well as the autotune kit, right? If I just purchase the basic PV (roughly $400 from what i gather), it doesn't give me the capability to autotune unless I shell out another few hunder bucks for the autotune kit?
No that's a different tuner, The PV will autotune your bike if it's equipped with stock narrow band O2 sensors, You can add a modual to tune with wide band sensors but it's not necessary.
Look at Fuel Moto's website and read up on it and other options they carry.
Last edited by Smokey Stover; Jun 1, 2014 at 01:18 PM.
General question about PV, and apologies if it's buried somewhere in the previous 600 pages of this thread:
So the PV has autotune capability, but I have to buy the PV itself as well as the autotune kit, right? If I just purchase the basic PV (roughly $400 from what i gather), it doesn't give me the capability to autotune unless I shell out another few hunder bucks for the autotune kit?
The PV has the ability to auto-tune (per say) within the closed loop systems with 12mm o2 sensors located at the collector of your head pipe.
What the AT110 Kit (and similar models) allows you to do is be able to properly tune your open loop areas in conjunction with the closed loop areas. In order to use the AT110 kit and others you need 18mm bungs in your head pipe located at the cylinder heads.
Hey all, did my first auto-tune run and I have some questions. First of all the run was during an early morning run and the temp was quite a bit lower than what I normally would ride in. I assume I would want to do a run where I would normally ride and the conditions I would normally ride (Here in Florida, HOT and HUMID)? Or does it not make that big of a difference?
Also, while I was getting a lot of hits in certain parts of the screen I didn't get them everywhere. Although my riding style is not very extreme so I guess I shouldn't expect the entire grid to fill in unless I really am hitting every RPM in every gear?
Lastly - What do the colors in the squares mean? Looks like some were green, yellow, and most red? After I was done it said most of the changes were between -3 and -7%.. what's the rule of thumb on when to stop auto-tuning?
Hey all, did my first auto-tune run and I have some questions. First of all the run was during an early morning run and the temp was quite a bit lower than what I normally would ride in. I assume I would want to do a run where I would normally ride and the conditions I would normally ride (Here in Florida, HOT and HUMID)? Or does it not make that big of a difference?
you might notice some pinging or detonation if tuned cold weather and then ridden in hot weather but realistically speaking the ECM communication with air intake sensors should be able to compensate for this.
Originally Posted by Crimson
Also, while I was getting a lot of hits in certain parts of the screen I didn't get them everywhere. Although my riding style is not very extreme so I guess I shouldn't expect the entire grid to fill in unless I really am hitting every RPM in every gear?
you're not going to be able to hit them all without the use of a dyno. Work the areas you're comfortable in working. No need to kill yourself doing this.
Originally Posted by Crimson
Lastly - What do the colors in the squares mean? Looks like some were green, yellow, and most red? After I was done it said most of the changes were between 3-7%.. what's the rule of thumb on when to stop auto-tuning?
Thanks!
green means you need more hits in those cells/areas
yellow means you're close to filling those cells/areas with information
red means you're done working those cells/areas
rule of thumb is when your VEs are changing at less than 5% across the board, then you're done with VEs
Just took another look and the majority of the changes were under 5%, most being about 2 -3.5.. Might not need to do much more but I guess I should do a run when the conditions were more like normal.. Once the cell hits the max amount does it just stop collecting data or is it a first in/first out type of thing? Like it drops the first data to come in and populates new data once hits hits the max or does it just stop collecting data at that point?
I was having some issues with pinging with the original tune Jamie sent me but he sent me one with reducing timing and that seemed to help although I have one done one ride since that change.
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