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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I'm getting rid of the cycle shack slip ons i have and going with a set of Vance & Hines pipes. I have been told by some i dont need a tuner-told by others i WILL need one or it will get really hot and will have problems. So do I need the tuner or not?
If you are only changing-out one kind of slip-on for another, you do not NEED a tuner. If you also change to a hi-flo air cleaner, or do other intake/exhaust mods then you may WANT to get a tuner - for instance if you also plan to do more extensive mods down the line and want a device that allows you to modify your ECM settings as you move further down that path.
The stock ECM settings are set to comply strictly with emissions regs, and typically are somewhat lean in comparison to an ECM that has been re-mapped to improve A/F ratios & increase power in specific situations across the RPM band. A tuner is a robust way to take control of your specific bike's ECM settings, based on your bike's specific behavior and set-up. There are other ways to modify the stock lean ECM situation that are likely more cost-effective until you start getting into cams, head work, etc. (e.g. Xieds). It all depends on how well your bike runs for you, and what your future engine mods are, as to whether going to a tuner is the right move for you.
If you are only changing-out one kind of slip-on for another, you do not NEED a tuner. If you also change to a hi-flo air cleaner, or do other intake/exhaust mods then you may WANT to get a tuner - for instance if you also plan to do more extensive mods down the line and want a device that allows you to modify your ECM settings as you move further down that path.
The stock ECM settings are set to comply strictly with emissions regs, and typically are somewhat lean in comparison to an ECM that has been re-mapped to improve A/F ratios & increase power in specific situations across the RPM band. A tuner is a robust way to take control of your specific bike's ECM settings, based on your bike's specific behavior and set-up. There are other ways to modify the stock lean ECM situation that are likely more cost-effective until you start getting into cams, head work, etc. (e.g. Xieds). It all depends on how well your bike runs for you, and what your future engine mods are, as to whether going to a tuner is the right move for you.
i'm going with the full pipes this time-staight shots i think-no more slip ons-and i already have the AC mod done-i dont plan on anything else as far as engine/performance goes
See how she runs after you get your mods done. Any erratic behavior, like surging, backfiring, and such will let you know if you're gonna need a tuner. Either a simple one like a Dobeck DFO/Arlen Ness Cheapshot, or more sophisticated like a PCIII. Lots of good info in here, as stated above.
If you do go with a tuner, check out the Dobeck unit.
It's a lot simpler than the others but you don't have to go to the dealer and pay $100-$150 every year to have them set it to pass emissions then wait for them to get you back in so they can set it back to run good. You don't even need a computer to set or adjust it, just a flat screwdriver. Their website has a vid of the four adjustments.
Mine runs great with just a couple self adjustments after their "base" settings for MY bike with MY add-ons.
When I go to emissions, I remove the ground wire, the system reverts to stock, and I pass with flying colors. Before I even leave the testing station, I hook the ground back up and I'm good for another year.
[SIZE=3]I'm getting rid of the cycle shack slip ons i have and going with a set of Vance & Hines pipes. I have been told by some i dont need a tuner-told by others i WILL need one or it will get really hot and will have problems. So do I need the tuner or not?
If you have not already committed to purchasing the pipes, I'd suggest you read a bit more about them. V&H has some issues with respect to O2 sensor placement.
As for the tuning device, any motor will normally benefit greatly from a capable tuning device in the right hands.
The motor's ve's are the heart of the tune and most add-on devices cannot set them which means the "new tune" - it's not really even a tune - may not be what your bike wants or needs. In other words, consider a real tuner and don't waste your time and money on "tricking-the-system" type devices.
From: Back in the Good Ole USA. South Carolina to be exact.
Originally Posted by JerryDinMD
i think im going with an Arlen Ness cheapshot-my issue is not spending as much on a tuner as i am for the pipes!
You could go w/XIEDs. They'll reduce heat in the closed loop area by richening this area of the map but, putting on new pipes will change the actual VE performance effecting the open loop areas. However, there may not be enough difference to notice.
That worked for me til I went to the bigger cams. They do have limitations, but for a basic upgrade, I was real happy with mine. Stopped the decel popping, surging, and just smoothed out the engine. All they do is add fuel, don't remove any and no spark adjust. So if you can live with that, I'd say go for it.
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