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Most of the bolts and nuts you will be dealing with are common, standard UNF threads, sometimes referred to as SAE. That will cover most of your hardware like fender brackets, frame mounts, etc etc that use the fine thread. Some case screws etc that go into aluminum are the coarser UNC. A tap and die set that has 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 7/16 sizes of these threads will cover 90 per cent of what you need on a bolt-together project like this. Deeper engine and trans internal work gets more complicated.
Buy a few handfuls of 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 UNF grade 5 bolts and matching Nylock nuts and you will have a good start. Much cheaper at a bolt supply store than getting the Colony Harley-specific kits etc.
Thanks Peter! Just today I bought a complete SAE tap & die set and a handful of bolts & nuts/washers etc. I am learning.
This will be the most basic mock up, for me to learn this bike and hopefully make it solid in its rolling chassis.
Don't sweat the hardware if you aren't doing an AMCA restoration. Just make sure you use grade 5 bolts that fit correctly. There aren't many critical bolts that use grade 8, and those are usually odd size and shape that need HD specific bolts, like caliper mounts.
When you get the parts manual, you can find out the bolt type by going to JWBoon.com and entering the part number. They have great part descriptions, but don't ship to the US.
Also, I think the Harley specific threads were panhead and earlier motors, you should be OK. The only one that might still be odd is the tappet guide bolts, but you shouldn't be messing with them yourself.
Thank you Joe. Certainly not a bike to be judged in my case as far as correctness goes. Just a fun poker run or lunch ride bike. I will have the trailer at the ready lol.
I actually have a couple of sharp local indy guys that have done this for 30 years, giving me tips & suggestions. Along with you guys here. They have pushed out two shovels in the last month or so (getting them up & running).
I hope to do the Gasbox 2 into 1 and either a Cigar muffler or a Flash Gordon on that end...
Continuing to bolt on parts. I have a trickle of specific bolts coming in and a few generic bolts from the hardware store. Just a drop in the bucket.
Checking out my coarse threads & fine threads in various areas. Chasin' them all.
Just practicing(!) and getting familiar with all the areas. Just a quick wipe down on bolting up parts... I will scour thoroughly when this initial bolt-up comes apart.
Plenty of patina and probably more than I want. But good to familiarize with the old so I can bolt up any new pieces gently. ;-)
I have a couple of major broken parts. Of course a cracked trans case. A broken part on the Super E also.
And the latest find is a chunk out of the primary case... ugh.
Pics on these parts soon... been very busy and just putting in an hour or two a day. Barely.
I will be ready to bolt in the motor this week...
As someone stated above, don't throw anything away just yet
1. Terminal plate. Mounts on the left side of the seatpost down tube.
2. Jiffy stand spring bracket
3. Locknut(s) shock absorber studs
4. 4A. Mounting brackets for passenger pegs (used on FX models).
5. 5A. Mounting studs for terminal bracket and coil mount
6. Vent hose tee fitting
7. Kickstarter spring
I think the other spring is for the rear brake lever (return spring).
I think the 5/16 long bolts are for the stock muffler support brackets.
Darn Panz! You know your stuff.
Its been guess work for me so far and coming along slow. But getting there.
I very much appreciate your documenting of my old worn parts.
Hoping to bolt the motor in this week... Then Ill scrub the primary and show us what I have...
Deciphering the parts manual on bolt sizing is tedious, but I will get through it.
The electrical will be a monumental hurdle for me... I will probably need a restore shop to get me right on that.
Time is on my side though.
Check with your shop guys about mounting the motor, trans and primary, it is more finicky than it seems. Motor and trans bolts to frame should be shimmed to avoid twisting. Inner primary needs to be bolted to motor and trans before those get located so primary goes on and off without force. Also remove paint from the frame beneath motor mounts.
I am enjoying this thread, thanks for taking the time to document your progress.
My shop guys said much as you have Joe. Fasten the primary first then bolt down the engine & trans.
I won't be around much to work on my bike this week, but I have something to chew on... My dinged primary case. So sad, other than maybe that was the leak it had vs the transmission itself. Time will tell when I get more into it.
So here it is, a chunked primary. Don't know how or when it happened.
Can I JB weld it? Standard weld to repair, or just get a new case?... Hmmm
My shop guys said much as you have Joe. Fasten the primary first then bolt down the engine & trans.
I won't be around much to work on my bike this week, but I have something to chew on... My dinged primary case. So sad, other than maybe that was the leak it had vs the transmission itself. Time will tell when I get more into it.
So here it is, a chunked primary. Don't know how or when it happened.
Can I JB weld it? Standard weld to repair, or just get a new case?... Hmmm
That's what happens if you don't use the right o-ring on the motor. Also could have been from badly misaligned drive train. I would be looking for another OEM inner primary while you are mocking up with this one. I suppose a good welder could fix it, but all that oil makes it difficult, and the alignment is critical.
A good welder than can do aluminum will repair that. Had that with a 78 FXE that I owned at one time. I have a place about 35 minute drive from me, Advanced Welding in Mt View CA.
RE: engine tranny inner primary mounting
Engine first, rear bolts torques to specs. Measure gap between front motor mounts and frame. If needed use brass shim stock. Once complete insert bolts and torque front motor mounts to specs. Place transmission mounting plate and transmission into the frame. Torque transmission plate to frame. The transmission can have the nuts and bolts on but should be loose. (Do not add the 5th bolt to frame) Add inner primary and torque nuts to spec. Check for gap between transmission case studs and transmission mounting plate. Shim if necessary. Lastly, add 5th bolt and torque all nuts and bolts to specs.
Reverse order for disassembly. Lots of time folks forget about loosening the transmission plate to case when removing the inner primary.
Shovel cone motors use a very small seal between the inner primary and engine case. Seeing that inner primary busted up makes me wonder if the wrong seal was used, the inner primary was not properly aligned, or perhaps someone forgot to loosen the transmission case stud bolts before attempting to remove the inner primary (it's a very tight fit) and resorted to the HD hammer to get it off.
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