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Okay, after a completely non-productive week and a half (at least in the garage), I'm getting back to it... Having to earn a living really gets in the way of things! Since I'm naturally disorganized, forcing myself to bag and label things really makes it easier to pick up where I left off...
I have a lifter question... The last time I installed lifters and pushrods was a long time ago, and they were solid. I completely understand the adjustment procedure (I think), and have read the S&S instructions and the factory manual carefully, as well as watching a bunch of videos. But I have one question... I may be overthinking things, but I've managed to confuse myself... I understand the importance of letting the lifters bleed down before moving on to the next cylinder, but how do I know they aren't "bled down" in the first place? Since everything is being freshly installed in a non-running engine, there hasn't been any oil pressure created... Won't the lifters be in a bled-down state to begin with? I feel like I'm missing something...
Also, the lifters shipped from S&S packed in oil... Should I clean them in a parts washer before use, or are they basically good to go?
Do I need to manually pump them up with oil so that they aren't bled down when I start the adjustment procedure? Or maybe I just need another cup of coffee for everything to suddenly make sense?
I don't wash them..But,, I do spin the roller on the bottom and if it feel critty at all I wash only that part with brake clean then hole the lifter sideways and dump a little Torco assy lube between the roller and housing and rotate the roller to work the torco in..
The most lifters are prefilled (SnS are) with light machine oil and will usually bleed down pretty quick.. The way to tell if the lifter is bled down is to spin the push-rod. If it not real tight on the turn, it's bled.
Lifters, you don't have to clean them, you'll be changing the oil in 50 miles anyway. Your call there. No big de, they will be purdged within 2 -3 minutes of you turning the bike on.
the pushrods and bled lifters. The new lifters are pimped, pumped, and primed already. They will not budge when you push on them. So you can safely go ahead and throw in the rods and adjust to zero lash then go from there.
Use some loctite on them beire you do your final locking of them to prevent them getting free and giving you a bad day.
follow that s&s vid even though we dont know what brand the one you have are. Did you already do the TPI calculations?
follow that s&s vid even though we dont know what brand the one you have are. Did you already do the TPI calculations?
Yes... My pushrods are 24 tpi (I think they're SE "Quick Installs." There was an SE211 cam in this engine originally, later replaced with an Andrews TW60 so SE makes sense. They make two models, one is 32, one is 24). From what I understand, 24 TPI should require 2.4 turns, or 14.4 flats.
Right now I'm side tracked a little bit... I didn't realize that the Zipper's two piston tensioners required some cam cover clearancing... It wasn't really difficult, but up until now I've been able to leave the cam cover hanging by the crank sensor, but I don't think I can clean it out properly without removing it. Annoyingly, it looks like I have to take half the wiring harness apart to do so. I'm currently contemplating it...
On my 99 the cam sensor connector was under the front engine mount. I was able to easily disconnect and de-pin to change sensor/cover.
Hmm. I didn't see a connector, and my shop manual says to disconnect it under the seat and feed the wires all the way out along the frame... But I may have misunderstood. Anyway, the ease of movement of the J&S lift came to the rescue... I moved the bike to the front of the garage, put some big trash bags behind things, and was able to use a combination of solvent, brush, hose, water, and compressed air to clean it out properly.
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