DIY Cheap Mods
I'm guessing an engine guard, maybe? Not sure on your scoot though.
I wanted to remove the front fender emblem from my Deluxe but needed to cover the holes. Rather than have expensive body work done on the fender I picked up some "automotive panel fasteners" from Ace Hardware for $1.50 (25 cents each). I just popped them in and they covered the holes perfectly! Ace only had black fasteners but that worked out fine on my bike.
NOTE: The aforementioned "Lava Glo Red" requires a two part system for touch up ($44). Compare that to the $8 I spent on a bottle of nail polish!
Pictures don't even do it justice!!!
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
I know this is an old post but I feel I need to clear things up a bit for future readers:
The problem I see here is that most LED are made to self regulate to 3 volts which is why you need a resistor in line with them to drop the other 9 volts (in a 12 volt circuit). You can then use that 9 volts and divide it by the resistor size you use to figure your current draw. The resistance of the led will change depending on the resistor used with it ( if you want to find the LEDs resistance in the circuit just take the 3 volts and divide it by your calculated current from above). With the parallel circuit in this pic you are trying to force the LED to run at the full 12 Volts and giving the potential to greatly increase the current on the circuit which may be bad depending on what it was designed to handle and should sharply cut the life of the LED (unless the LED has a built in resistor)
If you wanted to make it identical to the bulb you would need to know the current draw from a bulb. then divide 9 by the current to come up with the proper resistor size and put that in line with the LED. (provided you will use a 3 volt LED)
There are a lot more variables that could be discussed, but that would just have to depend on what someone was trying to do.
The problem I see here is that most LED are made to self regulate to 3 volts which is why you need a resistor in line with them to drop the other 9 volts (in a 12 volt circuit). You can then use that 9 volts and divide it by the resistor size you use to figure your current draw. The resistance of the led will change depending on the resistor used with it ( if you want to find the LEDs resistance in the circuit just take the 3 volts and divide it by your calculated current from above). With the parallel circuit in this pic you are trying to force the LED to run at the full 12 Volts and giving the potential to greatly increase the current on the circuit which may be bad depending on what it was designed to handle and should sharply cut the life of the LED (unless the LED has a built in resistor)
If you wanted to make it identical to the bulb you would need to know the current draw from a bulb. then divide 9 by the current to come up with the proper resistor size and put that in line with the LED. (provided you will use a 3 volt LED)
There are a lot more variables that could be discussed, but that would just have to depend on what someone was trying to do.
Tourer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: everywhere
Ok, Here is my contribution...
If you want tinted signals/tail light, and dont want to pay $$$...
Find a local auto store that carries VHT (rattle can)Paint Products.
VHT makes a tint called NIGHTSHADES....works on plastic
I First wet sand the lens with 600 grit, spray them with very light dusting coats(2 or more needed).
Try to get the edges first, then the main body of the lens, and get the coats even...
Once cured, wet sand them down with 1500/2000 grit, make them nice and dull.
~ A little advise: when wet sanding, use a light source to check for evenness of the tint, before polishing, it may look good now, but once your lights are on behind it, it may not(unless it has an even coat)
Then polish/buff it out to high gloss, with polish compound...
If you want tinted signals/tail light, and dont want to pay $$$...
Find a local auto store that carries VHT (rattle can)Paint Products.
VHT makes a tint called NIGHTSHADES....works on plastic
I First wet sand the lens with 600 grit, spray them with very light dusting coats(2 or more needed).
Try to get the edges first, then the main body of the lens, and get the coats even...
Once cured, wet sand them down with 1500/2000 grit, make them nice and dull.
~ A little advise: when wet sanding, use a light source to check for evenness of the tint, before polishing, it may look good now, but once your lights are on behind it, it may not(unless it has an even coat)
Then polish/buff it out to high gloss, with polish compound...
Last edited by 09_NightRider; Aug 22, 2009 at 08:11 AM. Reason: added picture
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I like this
$35 Camera Mount
I was looking for a camera/camcorder mount for a while, they are really expensive to buy. I found $5 camera mount mod online but it looks kind of cheap, click here for the link. I decide to make my own, order a 1" chrome handlebar clamp from Kuryakyn part number 1420, bought a optex car window 2-way panhead camera mount from a local store, I bolted the camera mount right onto the clamp, it costs me $35 in total. If you have a light weight camcorder, it may also work. I will go capture some videos with my digital camera this weekend, stay tuned.
WARNING: Although the camera stays tight, I highly recommend using safety tie down.
$25 Remote Control Garage Door Opener
Another mod to share, I wanted a garage door opener for so long, I always keep the remote in my jacket but a lot of time I miss the button. All you need is a 4 terminals relay (5 is ok) and a garage door remote control. I tap the high beam wire to the relay terminal 86, white color according to the wiring diagram, terminal 85 to ground, terminal 30 and 87 to remote control switch circuit. Now when I hit the high beam switch, I activate the relay and join my remote switch circuit. Remote control costs $20, relay $5 + 2 beer labor. Not bad at all compare to $125 for the HD one. Cheers! Alex
P.S. If you use a 5 terminals relay, just leave the 87a unused. You can also wire a momentary switch to join the relay solenoid circuit. I prefer high beam switch because it is easy to hit.
I was looking for a camera/camcorder mount for a while, they are really expensive to buy. I found $5 camera mount mod online but it looks kind of cheap, click here for the link. I decide to make my own, order a 1" chrome handlebar clamp from Kuryakyn part number 1420, bought a optex car window 2-way panhead camera mount from a local store, I bolted the camera mount right onto the clamp, it costs me $35 in total. If you have a light weight camcorder, it may also work. I will go capture some videos with my digital camera this weekend, stay tuned.
WARNING: Although the camera stays tight, I highly recommend using safety tie down.
$25 Remote Control Garage Door Opener
Another mod to share, I wanted a garage door opener for so long, I always keep the remote in my jacket but a lot of time I miss the button. All you need is a 4 terminals relay (5 is ok) and a garage door remote control. I tap the high beam wire to the relay terminal 86, white color according to the wiring diagram, terminal 85 to ground, terminal 30 and 87 to remote control switch circuit. Now when I hit the high beam switch, I activate the relay and join my remote switch circuit. Remote control costs $20, relay $5 + 2 beer labor. Not bad at all compare to $125 for the HD one. Cheers! Alex
P.S. If you use a 5 terminals relay, just leave the 87a unused. You can also wire a momentary switch to join the relay solenoid circuit. I prefer high beam switch because it is easy to hit.
Just out of curiosity, where did you mount the relay and the remote on your bike? I have a fatboy and have been looking for and easy mod and tis sounds like it will fit the bill.
bling brake pedal
Ok, so I picked up some 5"x4" HD metal emblems from a guy at the local flea market (by the way I have them listed in the classifieds here). They were originally from the Ford F150 Harley series trucks. I had a kuryakyn brake pedal on my heritage already.
I took off the top rubber/chrome piece of the pedal.
Took one of the emblems (they come with strong double sided adhesive tape), traced the pedal outline, cut the excess tape off with a razor blade, and attached! Seems pretty sturdy.
Waddya think?
I took off the top rubber/chrome piece of the pedal.
Took one of the emblems (they come with strong double sided adhesive tape), traced the pedal outline, cut the excess tape off with a razor blade, and attached! Seems pretty sturdy.
Waddya think?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,413
Likes: 17
From: eastern oklahoma
another tip before you do the rattle can for your fork lowers. after washing them, use a 3M scratch pad , maroon or green, maroon being the coarse and green being a little less aggressive to break the surface of the clearcoat on surface of the lowers before painting. then wash the dust off prior to painting. the scratch pad will prepare the surface so the paint will actually hang, and have a far better grip than if you just cleaned the lowers first. some great tips in here. thanks guys. especially liked the solder station with the clothespins. the wood can't act as a heat sink either. good thinking.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 1
From: NM
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Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Cool! So you're basically punching a big 'ole hole in the baffle? Have you noticed any backfire or anything since doing the mod? I wonder what this does to the warranty? Should I do this while engine is running? HA! So how can you describe the new sound? Just louder? Or sweeter? or Nastier? I know it's subjective...
Great thread btw!
Thanks,
Rick
Great thread btw!
Thanks,
Rick