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Made another set without the holes drilled in them. Very loud as the are basically 1 3/4 drag pipes so I installed a set of cut down HP Plus baffles. The sound is a bit more harsh than with the holes but I do like it better and it runs great. It's fun to watch the faces of people at the local dealership when I fire up my bike and they have a WTF moment. Here's a sound clip.....
I know this is an old post but I feel I need to clear things up a bit for future readers:
The problem I see here is that most LED are made to self regulate to 3 volts which is why you need a resistor in line with them to drop the other 9 volts (in a 12 volt circuit). You can then use that 9 volts and divide it by the resistor size you use to figure your current draw. The resistance of the led will change depending on the resistor used with it ( if you want to find the LEDs resistance in the circuit just take the 3 volts and divide it by your calculated current from above). With the parallel circuit in this pic you are trying to force the LED to run at the full 12 Volts and giving the potential to greatly increase the current on the circuit which may be bad depending on what it was designed to handle and should sharply cut the life of the LED (unless the LED has a built in resistor)
If you wanted to make it identical to the bulb you would need to know the current draw from a bulb. then divide 9 by the current to come up with the proper resistor size and put that in line with the LED. (provided you will use a 3 volt LED)
There are a lot more variables that could be discussed, but that would just have to depend on what someone was trying to do.
The reason for adding the resistors was to fool the flasher burn out sensor into thinking a bulb is there other wise you get a rapid blinking turn signal.
have been running this set up three years with out issue.
2002 Heritage Classic with incipient saggy bags, but it was the tie-down strap that bugged me. Every time I went out on the highway, one or two of the buggers would pull out of the bottom leather loop (the "keeper") and flap around in the breeze.
My fix was simple. Four sets of silver decorative Chicago screws and four 1" leather discs. Cut the disks using scissors and an old leather belt. Punched a hole in the center large enough to pass the slotted screw end of the Chicago screw.
Then punched one additional hole in each leather strap...centered, about 1 1/8" from the end. Insert the decorative end of the screw (the "post") into the strap, then screw down the leather disk from behind the strap...where it won't be seen.
Now it takes a deliberate effort to withdraw the strap from the leather keeper.
My new 18" apes were moving a lot and made me a little unsure about riding her.So, I had my tech guy drill tap my stock risers and put bolts in. It worked like a dream,don't move at all!!!..looks cool too.
Cost was $25 for the skull bolts.
Made another set without the holes drilled in them. Very loud as the are basically 1 3/4 drag pipes so I installed a set of cut down HP Plus baffles. The sound is a bit more harsh than with the holes but I do like it better and it runs great. It's fun to watch the faces of people at the local dealership when I fire up my bike and they have a WTF moment. Here's a sound clip.....
OK, I'm after a cheap mod. I want to bend my handle bars a little. I have a stock Heritage. I pushed the bars up to give it a little cooler look, but they angle up funny. Can I bend them down a little? Or, what are the tallest apey-est bars I could put on a stock FLSTC w/o rewiring the bars?
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