Help, burnt ignition wiring
Hi, I have a 2001 Heritage FLSTCI.
Today I lost all power while riding, no lights, power, nothin. After checking everything else I pulled the dash panel off the tank and were the 3 wires with the plastic connector connects to the ignition key switch they were melted, plastic and all???
I was able to Hot-Wire the bike and get home and rewire the unit + rebuild the switch and all is working again but my BIG question is, WHAT HAPPENED, WHY, what went wrong? I don't want it to happen again and cause any worse problems, what should I check or look for ???
Thanks for any help. Mj
Today I lost all power while riding, no lights, power, nothin. After checking everything else I pulled the dash panel off the tank and were the 3 wires with the plastic connector connects to the ignition key switch they were melted, plastic and all???
I was able to Hot-Wire the bike and get home and rewire the unit + rebuild the switch and all is working again but my BIG question is, WHAT HAPPENED, WHY, what went wrong? I don't want it to happen again and cause any worse problems, what should I check or look for ???
Thanks for any help. Mj
I would check into the voltage regulator. If it doesn't function properly, could cause a short and this could happen. I had the same happen on a old sport bike of mine and had to replace the stator(alternator) and the rectifier(regulator).
Switches goes bad, when they do different things can happen..
not totally unusual for an older Ign switch to go south.
Also did U buy the bike new./.. If not U have no idea how many times that switch has been taken off or whats been done to the Elc wiring on her..
.
not totally unusual for an older Ign switch to go south.
Also did U buy the bike new./.. If not U have no idea how many times that switch has been taken off or whats been done to the Elc wiring on her..
.
Last edited by oct1949; Jul 23, 2012 at 01:46 PM.
most likely the connector or terminals became a little loose which increased the resistance. with increased resistance also come increased heat. the excessive heat got to the connectors and ign body and melted it.. replace the connector, ign switch, new wire terminals if needed and make sure you put some dielectric grease in the connector before final assy.. i always squeeze the female side terminals to make them fit more snug..
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I'm now pretty sure this is exactly what happened. I also tore the whole key/ignition box apart and cleaned all the connectors. Harley wanted $120 for the switch and a 10 wait to match my key. I fixed all the wiring and rebuilt it for under $35. The biggest cost was that I had to buy a new Snap Ring Tool $18.
THE BAD NEWS is that to get home I had to Hotwire my bike and I was surprised at how easy it was. If fact it makes me sick just knowing that no tools are needed to steal a Harley. I will now be investing in a front wheel/rotor lock and maybe a BIG chain for raodtrips.
THE BAD NEWS is that to get home I had to Hotwire my bike and I was surprised at how easy it was. If fact it makes me sick just knowing that no tools are needed to steal a Harley. I will now be investing in a front wheel/rotor lock and maybe a BIG chain for raodtrips.
most likely the connector or terminals became a little loose which increased the resistance. with increased resistance also come increased heat. the excessive heat got to the connectors and ign body and melted it.. replace the connector, ign switch, new wire terminals if needed and make sure you put some dielectric grease in the connector before final assy.. i always squeeze the female side terminals to make them fit more snug..
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