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I've been looking into a cam upgrade myself, and that one I don;t ever see mentioned. Usually the 204, 205 or 255 cams (others will chime in, I'm sure).
That said- please be clear on your understanding of "compression" - there are two compression events you need to be aware of when selecting a cam:
1. your static compression ratio (CR) (simple formula based ratio of swept chamber volume to the volume above the piston @ TDC)
2. your dynamic (operating) compression ratio (DCR) - which is the actual running compression of the motor- this is different due to the cam intake close event occurring as the piston is coming up the cylinder from BDC.
When selecting a camshaft understanding the dynamic compression ratio it will provide to your motor is everything. Static ratio by itself is meaningless. The cam dictates when the intake closes and your compression starts to build- so a cam with an earlier intake close will build more compression than a cam with a later intake close (there's a lot more to it than this but I'm keeping it overly simple).
Anyway, this is very summary info - there is actually a whole science to this and quite a bit to know. there's a good basic read here on CR vs DCR:
http://kennedysdynotune.com/dynamic-compression-ratio/
If you are only going to port / polish and drop in cams, then the easy route would be to wait on feedback from other members here and go with the cam that is popular and proven to work. If you are set on the S&S cam, be absolutely sure to call S&S and discuss your motor specs with them first so you know what you will end up with.
My point is- don't choose a cam based only on the CR (static) compression numbers. The most important one is the DCR (dynamic) ratio.
Best of luck with this and I hope it turns out to your benefit- I'd be doing the same exact thing as you in this situation.
I've been looking into a cam upgrade myself, and that one I don;t ever see mentioned. Usually the 204, 205 or 255 cams (others will chime in, I'm sure).
That said- please be clear on your understanding of "compression" - there are two compression events you need to be aware of when selecting a cam:
1. your static compression ratio (CR) (simple formula based ratio of swept chamber volume to the volume above the piston @ TDC)
2. your dynamic (operating) compression ratio (DCR) - which is the actual running compression of the motor- this is different due to the cam intake close event occurring as the piston is coming up the cylinder from BDC.
When selecting a camshaft understanding the dynamic compression ratio it will provide to your motor is everything. Static ratio by itself is meaningless. The cam dictates when the intake closes and your compression starts to build- so a cam with an earlier intake close will build more compression than a cam with a later intake close (there's a lot more to it than this but I'm keeping it overly simple).
Anyway, this is very summary info - there is actually a whole science to this and quite a bit to know. there's a good basic read here on CR vs DCR:
http://kennedysdynotune.com/dynamic-compression-ratio/
If you are only going to port / polish and drop in cams, then the easy route would be to wait on feedback from other members here and go with the cam that is popular and proven to work. If you are set on the S&S cam, be absolutely sure to call S&S and discuss your motor specs with them first so you know what you will end up with.
My point is- don't choose a cam based only on the CR (static) compression numbers. The most important one is the DCR (dynamic) ratio.
Best of luck with this and I hope it turns out to your benefit- I'd be doing the same exact thing as you in this situation.
Last edited by cdonis; Mar 11, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
The goal is to get the optimal cam for current mechanical setup- you don't want a higher lift cam than the valves / intake / exhaust can efficiently flow. Opening the valve further does not necessarily mean it will flow more.
I think in this respect, nothing else on the motor changed, the SE cams are probably a better fit and less to think about. I'm absolutely sure a Redshift or Woods cam will work perfectly as good as any SE cam as long as the correct one is selected - but you have to do the mechanical homework
.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Mar 11, 2015 at 07:02 PM.
Redshift, I have wanted to use them in the past but never could reach anyone knowledgeable to discuss performance- those cams are for builders who understand cam / engine design theory and will purchase based strictly on the cam specs and their own calculated performance values.
Or you can go the easier route and get one of the popular SE cams, based on simple member feedback from others doing this type of mild upgrade. I guess I'm sort of steering you in that direction and away from the 510 cam. I don't particularly like SS cams anyway, they tend to show wear a lot sooner than others.
At least call Woods or TMan if you are set on looking at aftermarket alternatives, if for nothing more than a good source of information. Myself, I will be either getting an SE cam, Woods or TMan cam, mainly because all three are heavily focused on optimal performance for Twin Cam HD motors and drop-in cam upgrades (e.g. no other major engine work, just the typical upgrade path of cam / intake / exhaust / ecu flash).
Last edited by LA_Dog; Mar 11, 2015 at 07:24 PM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Last edited by cdonis; Mar 11, 2015 at 07:23 PM.




