Imo for sure and if the heads are off bump the compression up. The extra cost involved is low. There is a Really good shop right in Hayward....

 

The Woods 777 is what my HD shop said to go with also, as they do quite a few of them and have the tuning down for it. I asked if it needs headwork and they said no, that you didn't need to but it will respond well if you wanted to. So I called Bobby Woods to ask him to make sure I'm getting good info. He told me the same thing, as its a bolt in cam that you don't need headwork but of course if you did, you will get better results. Its a nice cam that you can bolt in now and later on if you decide on doing some headwork, its still a great cam for that also. Alot of guys run this cam with stock heads and get very good results, just go look over in the touring threads and do some research. Bobby Woods also told me its a good one for softails with stock heads. Bottom line is you don't need headwork but its a good one to do headwork with also if you like. Call Bobby Woods, he luvs to talk about this stuff and is very proud of his cams.

 

Good info
Thanks

 

Every cam is designed for an "optimal" static compression range (among other things, but that's another topic). While the 777 will work with stock, you're on the lower end of it's optimal compression. By bumping your compression to the middle or upper end of the cam's design specs, you'll get a lot more bang for your buck out of the cam. Why? Because the cam affects the dynamic (operating) compression of the motor, which is where you feel your power.

A cam designed for higher compression that is run in a lower compression motor, will result in lower dynamic compression and less than optimal HP/TQ. It's always best to select a cam designed for your current compression, or, if you plan to bump compression later, you can go with something like the 777 as it will work ok now and give you some room to get more out of it later

It really depends what you plan to do- if your plan is to stick with stock compression, go with a cam optimized for it and make the most of your current build.

Considering these details and understanding a bit about dynamic compression vs static compression will go a long way toward ensuring you make the correct cam choice for your motor. Ideally we can rely on our local wrench to assist with the right choice, but frankly most of them don't know these technical differences either.

 

Any BO's here running Ricor Intiminators up front? I've read a lot of posts with Dyna and Touring guys running them but between this forum and Google in general, not a single peep about use in a Breakout.

 

Sent my fender struts for my 13 Breakout (aluminum) to Sport Chrome. They came back vacuum packed to a cardboard backer. Packaged with higher quality than some new parts I've purchased from other companies!

I received excellent service from Sport Chrome also got a great discount for being a forum member!

 

Ordered new front suspension -

Alright so I spoke with both Ricor (Brian) and Race Tech, and Progressive, and Works about front fork upgrade options for the Breakout. Both Ricor and Race Tech were helpful - Brain at Ricor was by far the most knowledgeable on the FXSB and proper setups, and recommended the Race Tech springs to go with their Intiminators.

Progressive was not helpful and not very interested in offering up tech information, Works was downright insulting.

I just ordered the following:
Ricor Iniminators for 06+ Dyna / VRod - P/N 049-20-1001 ($179)
Race Tech linear springs, 1.0kg, for 2013 FXDB - P/N FRSP S4430100 ($129, hd forum members get 10% discount)
Lucas 5wt Fork Oil, 2qt, ($13 shipped total for both on Amazon)

The above parts were recommended by Brian at Ricor, based on my rider weight of 195 w/ gear and riding style (agressive). You could go with a .95kg spring if you want slightly less stiffness.

Install:
Drain fork oil, remove stock prelaod spacer and springs. Drop-in the Ricor and new springs, then modify the preload spacer. You want 1" of preload on the spacer, so you will need to cut the stock spacer.

With the shock top bolts off, Ricors and Race Tech springs installed and preload spacer sticking out of top, mark the preload spacer right at the top line of shock tube - cut the preload spacers (or make new ones) so the spacer is sitting level with top of fork tube uncompressed. Then the put on the fork tube bolt, it is about 7/8" long so it will give you about 1" of preload on the spacer.

Fork oil- 1.6 qt total, that's .8qt per fork. Brian says the newer bikes after 09 should use 5wt oil, and bikes from 06-09 should use 10wt. this applies to all 49mm fork tubes.

So a benefit from going this route is you do not need to remove your fork tubes from bike, and you do not need to remove or drill out the stock damper. Seems like it should be relatively easy to do and the cost is not bad.

I'll let everyone know how it went after I've installed and tested.

For the Rear shock, Brian recommended the Works softail shock as a good match to the front. Although talking to Works really pissed me off, I guess I'll have to suck it up and order one of their rears.

 

Beautiful- I was combing my hair with your photo of the struts- those things are shiny!

 

I just hope my bike looks half as good as yours when I get it put back together. It's at the paint shop now.

 

Thanks brother- good luck with the upgrades and looking forward to some pics!