Wonder why the stock black holds up so well? Is it because they are not at the header portion of the pipe? and doesn't get as hot?

 

Here are my install notes,- this is not a complete set of instructions, I am mainly highlighting any potential "gotchas" to look out for, odd tool sizes for bits / sockets, for anyone else looking to DIY front fork, springs, or wheels removal. Those with ABS may find some slight differences with wheel removal due to the ABS sensors- same process but take extra care with the sensors.

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PARTS and REFERENCES for FXSB Breakout:

OE Wheel Sizes:
Rear Wheel: 18" x 8.00"
Front Wheel: 3.5" x 21"

New Tires Installed:
R- Pirelli Night Dragon 240/40-18 - Tire weight 17.82 lbs
F- Pirelli Night Dragon 120/70/21 - Tire weight 11.62 lbs (Diameter difference vs the OE Dunlop is 1%, minor).

Tire pressures:
38psi rear tire pressure, 40psi front tire pressure

Front Fork lower boot gaiters:
Bikers Choice 48-8791 (49mm diameter short length for 49mm Dyna Street / Fat Bob / Breakout)
Extended length = 6.5”, Collapsed length = 3.0”

EBC HH+ Front Brake Pads:
Harley Davidson EBC Brakes Double H Sintered Pads P/N FA457HH

Ricor Intiminator Dampers:
49 MM Intiminator. Call Brian to place order, tell him your riding weight and style. Mine are set for: [Rider Weight with gear:190lbs], mostly 1-up with occasional 2-up. I chose these since they are 100% "drop in", no drilling of stock dampers required. You will need 4 16-oz bottles of Amsoil or Maxxima 5w fork oil. Yes, 5w is used with the Ricors. 25.6 OZ per fork tube. Measure up 26 OZ in a container, pour in, you'll end up with 25.6 OZ due to residual remaining in container.

Race Tech 1.0kg springs:
Spring series for 06+ FXDB, (fits FXSB) - P/N FRSP S4430100 (RT FRK SPR 43.5x300 1.0kg ). 10% HD Forum Member discount, call to order. You can get the FRSP S4430 springs in any weight, such as .90 kg, 1.1 kg etc. - Or, get one .90kg and one 1.0kg and end up with a .95kg set.

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Install notes, tool sizes:

Rear Wheel:
Remove brake caliper 1st, two T40 bolts on the caliper bracket. Note: The brake caliper bracket is a tight fit between the wheel and disc brake, and before continuing with removal of wheel I recommend putting masking tape over the forward end of the caliper bracket so it does not chip the finish on your wheel. You'll thank me by taking the time to do this.

Loosen rear axle nut from right side (not exhaust side), slide axle pin out toward exhaust side. Loosen adjuster on belt side only, spin it back about a half inch. Slide that side of wheel forward and remove belt. Be careful not to **** the wheel too much because the brake disc is still sitting inside a groove on the caliper bracket.

After the belt is off, pull belt side of wheel rearward enough to slide out the long spacer. the two rings on spacer always point outward. Now push back end of wheel to left, enough to pull out the two spacers on the right (note their position and order).

Now move the entire wheel left and keep your hand on the caliper bracket, sliding it left with the wheel. The bracket sits on a tab on the swingarm fork, it is a friction fit with a piece of rubber. It needs to slide left with the wheel so you can pull it out, and then remove wheel.

Installation is the exact reverse. There is one IMPORTANT thing to note when putting the brake caliper back on. The brake pads, you'll notice, flop out of the caliper when you removed it. the pads have a dog ear on the front bottom. these dog ears sit into a square notch on the bottom of caliper bracket. when you put the caliper back on, first hold the pads straight and apart as you slide it onto the brake disc. as you work the caliper onto the caliper bracket to align the bolt holes, BE SURE the inner pad dog ear is INSIDE the square notch on bracket and not floating in front of it. Do a visual check by looking through the wheel from the belt side, and visually verify the inner pad is inside the notch. It's easy to miss this as everything will appear correct, bolts will tighten, wheel will spin- but you'll be really sad the first time you try to use the rear brake!

TQ Values (always TQ to the lower end of the stated values):
Rear axle nut (3/4" Hex Bit): 95-105 ft-lbs - Note, a 19mm hex works, as does a 3/4 spark plug socket used in reverse. Removal nut for axle is on non-exhaust side.
Rear brake caliper (upper) bolt (T40): 16-20 ft-lbs
Rear brake caliper slider pin (lower) bolt (T40): 16-20 ft-lbs
Snug both brake caliper bolts, torque the slider pin (lower) first to spec, then upper bolt.

Front Wheel:
Remove brake caliper 1st, two bolts, 10mm 12-pt socket.
Loosen and remove axle nut on brake caliper side, then remove bottom cap bolts from left fork bottom. A 5mm hex bit will fit these cap bolts. After you remove the cap bolts the axle pulls out to left. TIP: Watch out you don't drop and scratch the black wheel spacers on either side of wheel as you pull the axle out.
Unbolt and remove the fender at this point if proceeding with fork tube removal

TQ Values (always TQ to the lower end of the stated values):
Front axle nut (15/16" wrench or socket): 70-75 ft-lbs
Front axle bottom cap bolts (5mm hex bit) TQ: 132-180 inch-lb / 14.9-20.3 Nm
Front brake caliper bolts (10mm 12-pt socket): 28-38 ft-lbs
Front brake caliper brake pad retainer pin (10mm 12-pt socket): 15-16 ft-lbs
Front master cylinder cap screws: 12-15 inch-lbs
When installing front caliper, snug both bolts by hand, then torque the bottom bolt to spec, then the top bolt last.

Front Forks:
** To remove the tube top cap nuts, you must first loosen the top pinch bolts on triple tree, otherwise the caps will NOT budge- Leave bottom pinch bolts tight so the tube does not spin while loosening the tube cap nuts.
** Use a strip of masking tape around the flats of the tube cap nuts to avoid marring finish with the socket.
** Before loosening or pulling the tubes out, use a piece masking tape to mark the front of tubes on the tube under the bottom triple tree , and a matching piece / mark on the lower front of triple tree, so you can put the tubes back in the same way. When you tighten the tube cap nuts they too will end up the same way as before.
** Wipe the upper part of fork tubes clean between the triple trees, and coat with Wd40, to prevent scratches.

Steps:
loosen top triple tree T45 bit
Loosen top cap nut a few turns 35mm socket (if you are not going to service forks or change springs, skip this step and leave the top cap tight)
grab bottom of fork slider and then loosen the lower triple tree T45 pinch bolt - Fork will drop, carefully guide it out without cocking it.
Remove top fork cap nut with fork tube on ground as per my above post #2374

After re-inserting fork tube and checking height / forward mark, snug the bottom pinch bolt just enough to hold the fork tube. Recheck fork tube height and forward mark, then TQ the bottom pinch bolts. Now tighten tube top cap nuts, TQ to spec. Then tighten the top pinch bolts, TQ to spec.
Reinstall fender, then wheel / axle, then caliper.


Front fork tube cap nut (35mm socket / wrench): 60-70 ft-lbs
Fork fork pinch bolts (T45) (upper and lower): 30-35 ft-lbs
Fender bolts (13mm): 15-21 ft-lbs
Fork tube height adjustment: 0.35 in (8.9mm). This is how far the fork tubes should sit above the triple tree. Measure from top edge of tube cap nut to top surface of triple tree. Basically the bottom edge of tube cap should be just a hair above flush with the front top surface of triple tree.


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Yes that would be one reason. Another POSSIBLE one is that the black on the stock setup is almost certainly powder paint versus a solvent or water based paint. Powder paint is applied literally as a find dry powder to electrostatically charged parts, and then baked at at minimum 400+ degrees to melt it and complete the chemical reaction that hardens it. Powder paint is incredibly more durable than normal paint. It is so resistant for example to chemical attack that it is used to coat lawnmower decks (top and inside) because the grass clippings won't successfully attack it.

I imagine it is pretty resistant to heat damage.

You might ask a local powder coater. Such facilities exist in most cities, as powder coating is used extensively now for both durability and environmental reasons.

Jim G

 

Upgrading the fork springs to Race Tech 1.0kg springs and adding Ricor Intiminator dampers on FXSB Breakout 49mm forks:

First read my posts above #2374 and #2376 for tech / cautions on removing the fork tube top cap, tools needed, part numbers etc.

Before you slide the fork tube out of the triple trees, wipe down the upper part of fork tube so it is spotless, then wipe it with wd40. this prevents scratches while sliding it out.

With fork tube removed from bike and top cap nut removed, set the bottom of fork on a soft towel on the ground. pull out the factory preload spacer, washer and spring. Pull spring up slowly to avoid oil going everywhere.

Dump oil out of fork tube into container, there's about 26oz in there. Pump the fork collapsed / open several times while holding upside down to get all the oil out. When you stop hearing squishy noises and it's mostly air noise, you've got it all out.

PREP ITEMS TO HAVE READY before proceeding with each fork tube:

2 16oz bottles of fork oil, open and ready
Pour 10oz of fork oil from one of the bottles into a container at this time and set aside, you'll need it ready to grab. Put that half empty bottle away you don't need it.
Keep one of the stock springs and the stock preload spacer handy, you'll need these within reach too.
Also keep the old washers as we'll re-use those too.
A pair of PVC cutters, or a hacksaw if you can cut straight (lol)
A sharpie marking pen
Paper towels
A couple of soft large towels
Something to lean the fork against at a 60-degree angle while you cut the preload spacers- the 60-degree angle is important.

Keep this all within easy reach.

Steps:
With fork upright, fill fork with 16oz (one bottle) of 5w fork oil. You'll see it bubble down past the factory damper.

Work the fork up and down slowly a bunch of times to get the air out. be sure you are pushing all the way down and pulling all the way up. when you stop hearing air / gurgling noises, all of the air is out.

Collapse the tube all the way down. Drop the Ricor unit into the tube, nut side UP.
Use the old spring to push the Ricor unit all the way down. You will need to use the old preload spacer to get the final bit of push and seat it against the bottom.

Pull out the old preload spacer, pull out the old stock spring, extend the top fork tube all the way up - and be sure it is all the way up cause it will want to slide back down on it's own.

Drop in the Race Tech spring, drop in the old washer on top of the spring.

The Race Tech springs came with a piece of PVC pipe to use as your new preload spacers. Take the long piece and slide it into the fork tube.

While holding the fork tube all the way up, use the sharpie to mark the pvc cutline at exactly flush with top of tube. Again double check your tube is fully extended. Spin the pvc and continue the mark all around.

Pull pvc out, watch for oil drips. Lean the fork tube at a 60 degree angle against something soft. Make sure the fork tube is not collapsing on it's own and could fall over, cause with the 5w it will want to collapse. leaning it at an angle should keep it from sliding back down.

Cut the pvc at the mark

Fill fork tube with remaining 10oz of fork oil while holding fork fully extended

Drop in your new cut PVC preload spacer (be SURE you put that washer in there on top of the spring, the preload spacer sits on top of the washer). Be sure it looks flush with the top of extended tube.

Install tube cap: Place fork tube on ground, on your soft cloth, upright. While holding the upper tube up, press down on the cap until you feel thread contact. while pressing on the cap, spin the upper fork tube to start the threads. be careful not to cross thread. Get a few threads started to be sure it is secure

Now get the 35mm socket, and spin cap on snug but not final tight.

Insert fork tube into triple tree, set height, note your front of tube location, snug the bottom triple tree pinch bolt to hold it in place

Do the next fork leg, same process..

 

Just got back from the test ride on new tires, suspension. Holy hell!!! 5000% better. I live near Mulholland Drive, it's 12 miles of twisty road with some really crappy bumpy sections.

The front tire stays planted, no more religious experiences even pushing the corners through the rough.

Fast braking is drastically improved. the rear tire really sticks, no more nose dive, and I'm hard pressed to make the rear lock up. I now pretty much need to stand on the rear brake to lock up the rear at 30/45 mph, whereas before it didn't take much.

the Night Dragon tires give the bike a whole 'nother level of feel- turn in is fast, smooth and precise. slow turns are also smooth and easy. no more tire flop.

The EBC HH pads do give a better bite.

I'm just kicking myself for not doing this SOONER.

The Ricor's really work AAA+++
The 1.0kg springs are firm but not overly so, they will feel less firm if you are 200+lbs suited up, mor efirm if less than say 190 suited up. If you want it a bit more soft go with .90 kg springs.

I get more cornering clearance now since the front end is not dropping down under weight.

Overall- helluva lot of bang for the buck with the Night Dragons, Race Tech springs, EBC HH pads and the Ricor Intiminators.

 

Nice report, LA Dog!

Jim G

 

Updated Breakout ****! New tires, fork boot gaiters, wrapped the upper tubes with 3M 1080 Matte Carbon Fiber. I'm not sure about the fork gaiters yet if i like 'em or not. I added the carbon fiber wrap because i thought it looked weird having the shiny upper.

So how you like that 120/70/21 front tire? I think it looks better than the 130 and it sure as heck handles better.

 

All I can say is BADASS! Did you add any rake to the front?

 

Bike looks great dude. Great write up and review on those suspension mids.

Remind me again why your rear wheel is different ?

 

Thank you! No added rake- i think the taller profile of the 120/70 tire just makes the wheel more pronounced. overall its about the same aspect as the stock 130, which is slightly wider and shorter. As you can see the 120/70 still fits with plenty of room under the fender so it's more of a visual effect.

Thanks bud- Cuz I aint got the extra scratch for the PM rear right now, that's pretty much it. I gotta spread my play money around, too many toys, wife, two houses, etc.