Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 528
From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Jim- everyone- it FITS!! no problemo- Woot!! Belt just barely slides right over and there is plenty of belt adjustment. About 3.5 turns out on the adjusters and then aligned with my micrometer.
Pics coming later - I can't test ride it today due to rain and wet roads. but I've run the bike on the lift and it tracks true.
Offset is right on the money with the sportster sprocket and stock sprocket. this is with the 1/4" spacer of course, since this fancy billet pulley didn't come with enough offset for a 240 tire- but good thing is, spacers are cheap and plentiful in all sizes.
I wasn't too overly worried based on the math- calcs said I needed 0.31 of added belt adjustment and I had about 1/2". but heck you never know 100% until you bolt it up.
So Jim- no reason you can't buy one of the chrome design HD or aftermarket (RSD, PM, BDL Ness etc) 70t pulleys for a 2004-2006 FLHT or 2006 Dyna - something that will match with your CVO wheels. As long as the pulley has the 2.20 hub hole for 2001-up FXS/FXD bikes without IDS (cush drive) and is 1" to 1.125" wide you're good to go. the five hole bolt pattern is same and the axle size or axle spacers do not matter. Once you have the pulley, you would only need to determine the appropriate hub offset spacer and length of bolts- which is not hard to do. Once you have the parts this is no more difficult than replacing a rear pulley.
Pics coming later - I can't test ride it today due to rain and wet roads. but I've run the bike on the lift and it tracks true.
Offset is right on the money with the sportster sprocket and stock sprocket. this is with the 1/4" spacer of course, since this fancy billet pulley didn't come with enough offset for a 240 tire- but good thing is, spacers are cheap and plentiful in all sizes.
I wasn't too overly worried based on the math- calcs said I needed 0.31 of added belt adjustment and I had about 1/2". but heck you never know 100% until you bolt it up.
So Jim- no reason you can't buy one of the chrome design HD or aftermarket (RSD, PM, BDL Ness etc) 70t pulleys for a 2004-2006 FLHT or 2006 Dyna - something that will match with your CVO wheels. As long as the pulley has the 2.20 hub hole for 2001-up FXS/FXD bikes without IDS (cush drive) and is 1" to 1.125" wide you're good to go. the five hole bolt pattern is same and the axle size or axle spacers do not matter. Once you have the pulley, you would only need to determine the appropriate hub offset spacer and length of bolts- which is not hard to do. Once you have the parts this is no more difficult than replacing a rear pulley.
Just to clarify: which FRONT pulley do you currently have mounted? (so that others who want to do this clearly understand whether it works, without changing the stock belt, with a stock front pulley or a smaller (e.g. Trike) pulley).
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; Jan 19, 2016 at 03:43 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
I'm going to start a new thread just on this topic- e.g. going 32/68, 30/68, 30/70. I agree this is a real breakthrough to be able to do this for a 13% improvement in gearing. And this would apply equally to all current FXD/FXS bikes. I have the 30t front tri-glide pulley installed and stock 133t belt, and now the 70t rear pulley.
Can't wait to take her out for a spin- My only final concern would be a potential increase in vibration at highway cruising speeds. But maybe not- the 70t billet pulley is larger in diameter but actually much lighter.
Can't wait to take her out for a spin- My only final concern would be a potential increase in vibration at highway cruising speeds. But maybe not- the 70t billet pulley is larger in diameter but actually much lighter.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Jan 19, 2016 at 04:00 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
first pass at starting new thread. please add info as you see fit. let's make it a good, overly informative thread on this topic. http://www.hdforums.com/forum/softai...p-to-13-a.html
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
New pics of the 70t installed, and the install process, are up in the new thread! lots of pics so please let page load. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...p-to-13-a.html
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
Update!
I just went for a 20 mile ride today with the new 30t/70t combo - through the canyons and some freeway. Freaking excellent. 3rd is much more of a wide range gear now in town and canyons. 6th is still smooth and when you roll on it in 6th, the bike actually goes somewhere!
When I twist the throttle in any gear it is like "right now" instead of "thinking about it". I don't feel like I am shifting too soon or anything- but i do shift sooner through gears on hard throttle because well- the bike is getting up to speed that much faster
.
Actually the bike now feels "normal" compared to my Big Dog Evo 107 with Baker6, and previous older HD's I've ridden. The Big Dog came with 3.06 overall gearing as standard and older HD bikes were about in the high 2 to low 3 range.
Granted- the biggest noticeable change difference will be going 30/68 from the stock 32/66. Completing this upgrade experiment with the 70t on the rear gave me the perfect added bit. So I would say that 30/70 is optimal for a performance-oriented rider and town bike.
Belt tracking is good- checked it constantly. no issues. i rolled the bike backwards 50 feet and the belt tracked to the inside edge as normal. no belt rubbing on tire. all good.
Gratuitous photo from today: Happy happy!!
I just went for a 20 mile ride today with the new 30t/70t combo - through the canyons and some freeway. Freaking excellent. 3rd is much more of a wide range gear now in town and canyons. 6th is still smooth and when you roll on it in 6th, the bike actually goes somewhere!
When I twist the throttle in any gear it is like "right now" instead of "thinking about it". I don't feel like I am shifting too soon or anything- but i do shift sooner through gears on hard throttle because well- the bike is getting up to speed that much faster
. Actually the bike now feels "normal" compared to my Big Dog Evo 107 with Baker6, and previous older HD's I've ridden. The Big Dog came with 3.06 overall gearing as standard and older HD bikes were about in the high 2 to low 3 range.
Granted- the biggest noticeable change difference will be going 30/68 from the stock 32/66. Completing this upgrade experiment with the 70t on the rear gave me the perfect added bit. So I would say that 30/70 is optimal for a performance-oriented rider and town bike.
Belt tracking is good- checked it constantly. no issues. i rolled the bike backwards 50 feet and the belt tracked to the inside edge as normal. no belt rubbing on tire. all good.
Gratuitous photo from today: Happy happy!!
Last edited by LA_Dog; Jan 20, 2016 at 02:54 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 528
From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
Update!
I just went for a 20 mile ride today with the new 30t/70t combo - through the canyons and some freeway. Freaking excellent. 3rd is much more of a wide range gear now in town and canyons. 6th is still smooth and when you roll on it in 6th, the bike actually goes somewhere!
When I twist the throttle in any gear it is like "right now" instead of "thinking about it". I don't feel like I am shifting too soon or anything- but i do shift sooner through gears on hard throttle because well- the bike is getting up to speed that much faster.
Actually the bike now feels "normal" compared to my Big Dog Evo 107 with Baker6, and previous older HD's I've ridden. The Big Dog came with 3.06 overall gearing as standard and older HD bikes were about in the high 2 to low 3 range.
Granted- the biggest noticeable change difference will be going 30/68 from the stock 32/66. Completing this upgrade experiment with the 70t on the rear gave me the perfect added bit. So I would say that 30/70 is optimal for a performance-oriented rider and town bike.
Gratuitous photo from today: Happy happy!!
I just went for a 20 mile ride today with the new 30t/70t combo - through the canyons and some freeway. Freaking excellent. 3rd is much more of a wide range gear now in town and canyons. 6th is still smooth and when you roll on it in 6th, the bike actually goes somewhere!
When I twist the throttle in any gear it is like "right now" instead of "thinking about it". I don't feel like I am shifting too soon or anything- but i do shift sooner through gears on hard throttle because well- the bike is getting up to speed that much faster
. Actually the bike now feels "normal" compared to my Big Dog Evo 107 with Baker6, and previous older HD's I've ridden. The Big Dog came with 3.06 overall gearing as standard and older HD bikes were about in the high 2 to low 3 range.
Granted- the biggest noticeable change difference will be going 30/68 from the stock 32/66. Completing this upgrade experiment with the 70t on the rear gave me the perfect added bit. So I would say that 30/70 is optimal for a performance-oriented rider and town bike.
Gratuitous photo from today: Happy happy!!
How does the engine feel running at close to 2500 rpm in 6th gear?
Did the correction of the gearing factor in the ECU result in an accurate speedometer and no ABS difficulties?
It will also be useful to watch the mpg with the new gearing. Although the new gearing SHOULD hurt the mpg somewhat, the degree is questionable, since the bike is geared "too tall" to begin with. The drop in mpg might not be much.
I currently average 44 mpg with stock gearing and a 220 b (with riding gear) rider, when riding mostly highway with relatively fewer stops. The mpg dips to as low as 39 when doing "suburban metro" riding.
Jim G
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
Excellent, LA_Dog! Congratulatiosn on carrying through to full and successful execution.
How does the engine feel running at close to 2500 rpm in 6th gear?
Did the correction of the gearing factor in the ECU result in an accurate speedometer and no ABS difficulties?
It will also be useful to watch the mpg with the new gearing. Although the new gearing SHOULD hurt the mpg somewhat, the degree is questionable, since the bike is geared "too tall" to begin with. The drop in mpg might not be much.
I currently average 44 mpg with stock gearing and a 220 b (with riding gear) rider, when riding mostly highway with relatively fewer stops. The mpg dips to as low as 39 when doing "suburban metro" riding.
Jim G
How does the engine feel running at close to 2500 rpm in 6th gear?
Did the correction of the gearing factor in the ECU result in an accurate speedometer and no ABS difficulties?
It will also be useful to watch the mpg with the new gearing. Although the new gearing SHOULD hurt the mpg somewhat, the degree is questionable, since the bike is geared "too tall" to begin with. The drop in mpg might not be much.
I currently average 44 mpg with stock gearing and a 220 b (with riding gear) rider, when riding mostly highway with relatively fewer stops. The mpg dips to as low as 39 when doing "suburban metro" riding.
Jim G
If you check the rpm vs mph chart on the gearingcommander.com site- or I think post #4 here, you'll see it is only a few hundred rpm difference (13% right?) in 6th.
For MPG- this gearing change by itself would not impact mpg in any significant manner- except it may cause you to punch it alot more often now, and yeh your mpg goes down the tube. heh.
seriously though, your tuning / fuel map and right wrist will help or hurt mpg more than anything. but I'm not telling you anything new. I'm going to revise my target AFR map to have a higher econ rpm range (14.2) at lower kpa. before, I was cutting off the economy range at 3000 rpm. I'll take it up to 4k rpm at 30-60kpa. actually, maybe 3500 would be sufficient since that is still 85mph or so in 6th.
{edit} speedometer seems correct with the new settng of 2392. I'll have to chrono it with my gps to be sure. I don't have ABS on my bike (2013), but I don't see any reason why it would be affected at all.
You're next on the list to do this upgrade bud!
Last edited by LA_Dog; Jan 20, 2016 at 03:22 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 528
From: Lethbridge, Alberta Canada
With my post-retirement income stream, this requires some spousal concurrence. 
And remember, I have no garage, a 7% grade driveway that is also gravel (slippery and dusty caliche to be more accurate), and only a 6x12 enclosed trailer that is assigned a grossly UNlevel (sideways tilt) storage location by my landlord, so I will likely have no choice but to pay someone to do the work in their shop.
But yeah, if I can get my dear wife's financial blessing, and figure out how to physically get it done despite my lack of a suitable workspace, I'm sure game to do it!
I remember how my highly modified 375 lb all-carbon fiber Ducati 916 Monster felt after I steepened the gearing by about 18%. It was an absolute rocket, and I had trouble keeping the front end down in the lower gears, even at highway speed.
Jim G
And remember, I have no garage, a 7% grade driveway that is also gravel (slippery and dusty caliche to be more accurate), and only a 6x12 enclosed trailer that is assigned a grossly UNlevel (sideways tilt) storage location by my landlord, so I will likely have no choice but to pay someone to do the work in their shop.
But yeah, if I can get my dear wife's financial blessing, and figure out how to physically get it done despite my lack of a suitable workspace, I'm sure game to do it!
I remember how my highly modified 375 lb all-carbon fiber Ducati 916 Monster felt after I steepened the gearing by about 18%. It was an absolute rocket, and I had trouble keeping the front end down in the lower gears, even at highway speed.
Jim G
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
LOL!! You do have some challenges there sir! But given everything else you've managed to accomplish I have full faith in ya
Monster -great bike. must have been a real handful after the gearing change. I did something similar recently to my YZ 426- dropped the gearing 20%, that thing was nuts. roll on in 3rd and wheel stands right up. Just recently sold it to a guy who was going to super-moto it. My 426f actually had street legal registration and plate which is rare for a straight dirt bike.
Monster -great bike. must have been a real handful after the gearing change. I did something similar recently to my YZ 426- dropped the gearing 20%, that thing was nuts. roll on in 3rd and wheel stands right up. Just recently sold it to a guy who was going to super-moto it. My 426f actually had street legal registration and plate which is rare for a straight dirt bike.