Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Everything Breakout! Find out everything you need to know! Some topics include:
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
• Customizing you bike
• Seats
• Risers
• And much more!
For more information check out these threads:More Threads
The Everything Breakout Thread
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,492
Likes: 103
From: Stuttgart, Germany
AFAIK user Nostradamus74 installed LED signals and his dash indicator works fine after doing the hazard light procedure.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
^ NSR - I see what you mean- this type of lens design would work better, assuming of course the mfr actually centered the LEDs behind the lens elements. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-Bike-Bla...-/141937652848
a lot of the china clones have very "loose" QA tolerances on aligning the LED with the lens. if it's off even 1mm it screws it all up. plus the backside of the one in the link above probably will not fit our smaller buckets.
a lot of the china clones have very "loose" QA tolerances on aligning the LED with the lens. if it's off even 1mm it screws it all up. plus the backside of the one in the link above probably will not fit our smaller buckets.
Last edited by LA_Dog; May 10, 2016 at 01:46 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 635
Likes: 47
From: North Jersey, USA
Yep LA - I guess I was thinking ... "a little more $$ means a better light". Maybe I was wrong...it happened once before, lol....
I'm not too worried about the light, really. It'll be OK ... the Hi Beam is great!
Next up are some primary and final drive mods...this fall.
I'm not too worried about the light, really. It'll be OK ... the Hi Beam is great!
Next up are some primary and final drive mods...this fall.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jul 12, 2016 at 08:29 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
Yep, mine does the same! Tried the procedure in different ways but still the dash indicators keep on flashing fast...But I was wondering if it would make a difference installing those LED signals with or w/o load equalizers....
AFAIK user Nostradamus74 installed LED signals and his dash indicator works fine after doing the hazard light procedure.
AFAIK user Nostradamus74 installed LED signals and his dash indicator works fine after doing the hazard light procedure.
Wait... is there actually a low beam? I never use it.. LOL
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jul 12, 2016 at 08:28 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 635
Likes: 47
From: North Jersey, USA
Heh ... yep, it's Hi-Lo. I always ride with the Hi on too. Don't we all? I was just goofing around with it last night on Lo. That's how I noticed the weak center with the Lo beam.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
You splice the wire at an external point outside both the switch and light housings. Instructions and some shrink tubing are included with the light. When completed, you're the only one who will know the wire is spliced.
If you have a friend in the electronics trades, or who is mechanically inclined and has worked with automotive wiring, show them the instructions and they'll knock this little job off within 20 min total. If you can manage wire cutters, a soldering iron and a hair dryer and can follow very simple and explicit written instructions you'll be fine. There are 2 wires per light, one red, one black and nothing explodes if you cut the wrong one first
.
If you have a friend in the electronics trades, or who is mechanically inclined and has worked with automotive wiring, show them the instructions and they'll knock this little job off within 20 min total. If you can manage wire cutters, a soldering iron and a hair dryer and can follow very simple and explicit written instructions you'll be fine. There are 2 wires per light, one red, one black and nothing explodes if you cut the wrong one first
.I did find out the OE way to do it but it will cost me $400 (Fat Bob blinkers are chrome and use the same switch setup as mine).
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,174
Likes: 1,960
From: Great State of Canada
HK, I finally looked at my bike yesterday to see what i was concerned with before. I know what it is now. The grommets was the part i'm worried about. There is a grommet on the blinker and the switch housing, And they look like it's part of the OE wire. So what is your method like? is it a hole in the blinker and switch housing? Or do they supply a grommet type thing with the kit? I am particular about stuff like that. I wouldn't want the wires just going into a open hole.
I did find out the OE way to do it but it will cost me $400 (Fat Bob blinkers are chrome and use the same switch setup as mine).
I did find out the OE way to do it but it will cost me $400 (Fat Bob blinkers are chrome and use the same switch setup as mine).
Instructions for trimming of wires to necessary lengths to effect a good looking splice are with the new light kit.
Last edited by HKMark23; May 11, 2016 at 12:03 PM.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
came across some cool new 1157 led bulbs on amazon, $14/pr, tested them out. pretty nicely made and hella bright- very good diff between brake and tail light levels. pics and info posted in a related thread here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post15135783
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...l#post15135783
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 111
Likes: 2
From: MA
The instructions which come with the lights are very explicit and straight forward but unfortunately, now that I'm done with them, I no longer have them. IIRC, you cut the existing wire flush with the grommet at your existing light housing. Then you slide the heat shrink tubing over the remaining wire protruding from the switch housing (3 pieces) , splice (solder) the (new light/switch housing) wires together as required, then slide each piece of shrink tubing in place per instructions and shrink them with your heat gun or hair dryer. The final piece of shrink tubing covers the entire splice. You don't need to get into the guts of your switch or light at all. The splice is external to both.
Instructions for trimming of wires to necessary lengths to effect a good looking splice are with the new light kit.
Instructions for trimming of wires to necessary lengths to effect a good looking splice are with the new light kit.
WOW HK, you answered my questions exactly as I needed them answered. All my concerns are covered now. You also just saved me $400. You are the man sir!!!!!!
Now to find them. Thanks again
P.S. I never answered your first reply about wiring. Yes I can wire anything. That wasn't the problem. You answered all the problems that were stopping me from doing it this way.