When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Curt- thanks for the pics and welcome. I had put boots on mine when I did the front fork spring and damper upgrade- same boots as yours. I took them off after a couple of months though as dirt was collecting behind them and I did not want it to eventually mess up the fork seals. Also where the lower part of boot fits over the top of fork slider, it was starting to add fine scratches to the chrome. So I basically cut them off, I guess if my bike were not so new and already had scratches, I prolly would have left them on- but do check behind them regularly and clean the dirt off the fork tubes.
this is my bike. sorry for the questions. just learning.
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
As mentioned, upgrading your belt pulley drive ratios are the single best performance gain you can do to any stock 2007 and up HD softail / dyna and will give the the BEST performance return for $$ spent. period. it will benefit every aspect of riding whether you are town only, freeway only, a cruiser rider or an aggressive rider. It does not reduce mpg either (only your right wrist does that - heh)
Our bikes are geared way too tall from the factory for EPA and noise reasons. - think as if you were always trying to take off from a stop on a bicycle stuck in 3rd gear. just the fact that you CAN hit 120 in 4th gear fully attests to the bike being way too tall on gearing ratio. go 30/70 on the belt pulleys as outlined in the thread at top of softail forum, tune bike, you won't believe its the same bike. All you are doing is getting the bike back to a pre-2007 proper drive ratio, and undoing the slag of the too tall ratio.
I also recently discovered and proved that the 48h cams are WICKED in the stock 103 motor. it will raise compression (which = added power) but not too much as some have erroneously warned. I am so pleased with the performance of the 48h they are not coming out unless I do a 107" kit- but really, I don't see the need (yet! lol).
But do upgrade the belt pulleys and you probably won't want to do cams after or at least not for some time. And even if you do, then you'll get more out of the cams or other motor work by having an actual proper final drive ratio.
Good luck - Good riding.
Wow! Thank you this was a response I was looking for. Im not sure exactly what it all means though. When you say too 'tall' for instance. If I do this gear ratio thing, will I no longer be able to hit 120 in 4th? What kind of power do I get? Are the 48h cams Andrews? Sorry for all the questions.
this is my bike. sorry for the questions. just learning.
Wow! Thank you this was a response I was looking for. Im not sure exactly what it all means though. When you say too 'tall' for instance. If I do this gear ratio thing, will I no longer be able to hit 120 in 4th? What kind of power do I get? Are the 48h cams Andrews? Sorry for all the questions.
Nice looking ride- After the pulley upgrade you will hit 120mph in 6th properly. and you'll get to that a lot faster than you did trying to hit it in 4th.
I mean, why even have a 6 speed bike if all the top end you need is achievable in 4 gears? LOL
All I can say is look at the thread on the topic, page 1, there are mph charts etc and a lot of good info posted there. if you take the time to read most of that thread you'll be well educated on the topic. the drive ratio thread is at top of softail forum as a sticky. at very least read page 1
Originally Posted by Curt Ehrhart
Thanks LA. I appreciate your input as your build and is one that I have started to follow. I'm going for a combo of yours and Canal's.
I had concerns about dirt build up but wasn't sure. Seems like there should be some way to keep dirt out.
yeh you would think so right?? With the expansion and contraction of the boot it is acting a bit like a bellows, and sucking air in and out. dirt will get in with the air movement and it will be the fine grit type of dirt- really bad for fork seals.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jan 10, 2017 at 10:08 PM.
That's funny. The misses thought I was a dork for playing with them before I cut them.
Originally Posted by LA_Dog
yeh you would think so right?? With the expansion and contraction of the boot it is acting a bit like a bellows, and sucking air in and out. dirt will get in with the air movement and it will be the fine grit type of dirt- really bad for fork seals.
this is my bike. sorry for the questions. just learning.
Wow! Thank you this was a response I was looking for. Im not sure exactly what it all means though. When you say too 'tall' for instance. If I do this gear ratio thing, will I no longer be able to hit 120 in 4th? What kind of power do I get? Are the 48h cams Andrews? Sorry for all the questions.
hey sorry just saw this now. i put on flanders bad boy bars. I'm a tall mother fker so that lean on my higher milage rides was killer on my lower back. this sat me just the right amount of upright without losing the drag look. my only complaint is my hands are curved slightly outward. this is only mildly annoying. works with all stock components EXCEPT the brake line. I found a fat boy brake line worked perfect. Order that too off a salvage.
I'm totally new here and trying to figure out how things work here. So feel free to yell at me if I'm doing it wrong.
Here is my issue. I ordered 23" DNA Mammoth spoke front wheel for my 2016 BO non-CVO. When I placed the order I gave them all of the make/model details to include ABS bearings F/R. I just got both wheels and tires back from the local custom shop for mount and internal balance. Removed the stock front last night and replaced with new 23" spoke wheel. All stock spacers and such went back on and in order of course. Still, I noticed the wheel is offset towards the clutch handle side of the bike, like, a lot. About 3/4" difference. The rotor and caliper aligned perfectly. The only thing I can think of is that maybe DNA used the incorrect offset on the hub. Now I've read about other bike models that have some offset, but I haven't seen anywhere that someone had this much offset. Furthermore, the caliper body is less than 1/8" gap from the wheel spokes. That's just makes men nervous as all gets.
So other than waiting until Monday for DNA to open, does anyone have some input or recommendations?
hey sorry just saw this now. i put on flanders bad boy bars. I'm a tall mother fker so that lean on my higher milage rides was killer on my lower back. this sat me just the right amount of upright without losing the drag look. my only complaint is my hands are curved slightly outward. this is only mildly annoying. works with all stock components EXCEPT the brake line. I found a fat boy brake line worked perfect. Order that too off a salvage.
Thank you, I would like some bars with just a little bit more rise and pullback than the stockers also so have been checking around. Agree I don't want to change too much the stock look either.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.