True indeed - Most folks ride in the 2000-4000rpm range. so a cam that is optimal for that will be good all around in a daily rider bike. if you (not "you", just saying in general) ride steady below 2k rpm you are lugging the motor, and if you ride steady over 4k you are getting out of the stock motor's sweet spot by the time you hit 5k.
So typically, a mild performance cam that has an intake close event of around 30 is one designed for low to midrange performance. there is more to it than that in regards to the other cam specs, but intake close event is extremely important as to where the cam is going to come on in the RPM range and how much dynamic compression will be seen by the motor.

An intake close event of 30 = about 2400 rpm (roughly) where the cam comes on. That is why a cam with an intake close of say 40 will feel weak at the bottom without added compression and won't come on until about 3k.

When you build a high-comp motor you need to consider cam specs and intake close event so you have optimal dynamic operating compression (somewhere in the 9.3:1-9.5:1 range), which = good power without ping on typical pump gas. The Tman 625 cams are a great example of a very strong cam across the board on a higher compression (10.5:1) motor. IIRC the intake close is about 42, but it will pull stumps out of the ground if you built the motor to see about 9.6:1 operating compression with those cams installed, and you have about a 3.14:1 final overall drive ratio.

And that leads to another thing, not to confuse matters even more- your drive gearing final ratio at the wheel is very important to engine performance. This is why those of us who did the 30/70 or 30/68 pulley swaps are going to get a lot more benefit out of motor upgrades than someone with stock gearing. it's like riding a bike stuck in 3rd gear. you can put a bigger set of strong legs on the bike to pedal harder, and you will take off better, but it will always feel pokey due to less physical mechanical advantage of the taller 3rd gear ratio. drop the bike gear to 1st and hang on- even with smaller legs doing the work. It's the same principal with having the stock 32/66 taller pulleys, or swapping to the shorter ratio (actually... more CORRECT ratio) 30/70 or 30/68 pulleys.

 

Alright gentlemen, but I think you broke a big forum rule, you have talked me out of spending more money(for now that is).

I'll just get the pulley's done(30T is coming from Surdyke tomorrow), and sit where I'm at. Awesome discussion on the topic though, thanks a lot for all the replies.

 

Wanna spend more $$?? Get a DNA brakster kit for that rear wheel.

 

LOL!! No way we broke rules brother, we are much more subtle than that- We've only postponed your spending on cams now for MORE money later on a full motor upgrade later (recall I hinted at the 107 kit etc).

Have you upgraded your front fork springs and dampers? That is another major riding improvement. Not too spendy either and firmly DIY territory.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The list is endless..

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

Yes Sir, did the dampers and springs a couple of weeks ago, huge improvement. Also put on an RS turbine air cleaner and FP3 last week, bike runs so much smoother. In the next couple of weeks I'll get the 30/70 pulley swap on and I'll be pretty much done riding until winter is over.

Next year I will upgrade the rear shock and who knows what else, the 107 kit is damn tempting......

 

Nice- your bike must ride as good as it looks.

 

Hi all new to the forum, great read, and some excellent information, please all keep up the great work.

NSR,Looking at the picture of your bike It looks like you have had some work done to the standard rims, apologies if mistaken, they look great, are you able to advise how this was achieved?

Sorry photos were on page 472 of the forum, thanks

 

Yep, H-D wheels ... had the black finish stripped off, then polish the edges. Then powder coated the hub and spokes black and cleared the polished parts of the rims. I copied some other dudes bike I saw on this forum somewhere....

 

Found several different service manuals for 2015 Breakout with same part number and different alphabetical designations on the end does anyone know if this #99482-BR is specifically for the breakout. Did an internet search and comes up with nothing, just want to be sure and get the right one.

 

You have identified ONE of TWO part number questions.

The SECOND question is which international version of the Breakout is a given part intended to be on?

Simple examples of Breakout variances by country:

- The final drive pulley on Japanese Breakouts has a different number of teeth than the U.S. pulley

- The twin taillight configuration of the U.S. Breakout is illegal in Canada. Canada requires both a centrally mounted taillight and a license plate mounted right under it.

Jim G