Tried to start it again after letting it cool down further. It started but is in limp mode again no codes. It seems to only throw code if a ride it and clears up, then it comes out of limp mode. When I took it for a ride earlier I didn’t stop, I came straight home didn’t want to chance it. That is when it wouldn’t start at first.

 

I finally got it figured out. It was a bad injector, I changed them out. I changed spark plugs , battery, wires, coil, crank position sensor, engine temp sensor, and oxygen sensors. As luck would have it last thing I changed solved the issue. Happy to have it running like a champ again, just in time for beautiful riding weather in this part of country. This summer was an unbearable in Louisiana.

 

I'm glad you're back up and running... I hope you have a ton of fun riding the bike in your good weather window......

Was it the rear injector that was bad? Did you test or inspect the injector to find out if the failure was the mechanics or the electronics of the injector?

I am not trying to be condescending, nor am I trying to take away from the fact that you fixed your bike..... but I have no idea of your knowledge and experience in working on Harley bikes, or vehicles in general. I'd like to offer you a different perspective that may help you with future repairs...

Based solely on your posts, unless I missed something or you were just trying to be brief in your posts, it doesn't appear you actually figured it out.

It appears you made a series of guesses, then based on those guesses, you threw parts at your bike.... You eventually guessed correctly and the bike now runs...

If you did any actual testing of the parts/pieces you replaced, you didn't share that information...

I'm going to assume that you didn't check the plugs, wires, battery, coil, crank position sensor, engine temp sensor, and oxygen sensors.... and found all of them to be bad, failed parts...

So... as you found out, guessing then throwing parts at a bike is usually a long and expensive way to repair a bike.

IMHO, it is always better to do a systematic diagnose of the issue(s).

I always start by verifying a good, reliable 12V system, then I check for codes. I will inspect (and test) the parts responsible for a thrown code. If no codes, or if the code doesn't lead to a solution, I go back to the basics with verifying compression, spark, and fuel...

I usually won't just replace a part, with out verifying it is/has/intermittently failed, unless it's a maintenance part that is due (or close to due) for replacement.

Even then I will inspect the part closely to find out, not by the process of elimination but by testing of parts/pieces, if the part replaced is actually causing the issue(s)....

Again, I offer this as a different perspective on your recent repair, based solely on the info you shared...

I'm glad you fixed it, glad you are enjoying the good weather in your area on your motorcycle, and encourage you to continue to work on, and learn about your bike...

Be safe...

 

I’m not offended at your reply. I didn’t test any of the parts before replacing. I’m just an average guy with simple mechanic skills. I don’t have the equipment or experience to test the parts I replaced. They weren’t excessively expensive to replace. It was a process of elimination for me. I always try to fix an issue myself and ask for opinions to help me out. If it gets to expensive or beyond my skill level I will take it to a shop. It’s very fulfilling when it works out and I gain a little more experience working on the bike.

 

@Madd Max

Glad you found the problem.

Harley PDF Manual Trade & Share is a Face Book group. Join the group and click on Files - type in 2015 - scroll down to Electrical Diagnostic Manual - click on the manual link and download it to your hard drive.
The Manual provides a description of the bikes electrical systems and step by step trouble shooting guides for DTC's. It may not always pinpoint the problem, but it will help eliminate components that are suspect.