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Was it stalling and back firing before? How did he check the stator and volt reg? He may now what he is doing, don't mean to insult someone I don't know. But electric is not something everyone is good at.
I would rev it up to 4k and see what it reads. You ride around 3k. So only going to 2k doesn't tell you everything.
If you got a good charged battery, and stator is putting out some, you should ride for a bit. It could be bad voltage causeing fuel and spark issues, or you could have something else.
But it could be something else, I would not run out and buy another volt reg just yet.
It was not backfiring or stalking before the new vr.
He was a mechanic and understands electrical quite well, but as you said we may not have done it exactly right. We disconnected the stator plug from the VR and checked continuity in the 3 hole stator plug. I don't exactly remember how/if we checked the voltage regulator, but he thought that was the issue. I'm so bad at understanding the electrical items that I have no idea if I'm doing any of it right. I bought a brand new battery to be sure that isn't the problem. I will test the battery at higher rpms today and see what I get for a reading. The bike ran great until I came to a stop after 15ish miles. That's when it wouldn't stay running unless I kept the rpms up.
Last edited by dwhit6419; Jun 3, 2025 at 04:17 AM.
I do remember when he was checking the stator his multimeter read 0L I believe and when checking A to B, A to C, and B to C that reading never changed on his multimeter. Conclusion was a continuity was fine. Does that sound right? He then checked voltage at the battery with the bike running and it wouldn't go above 12.3 I believe which led us to believe the voltage regulator was bad.
Last edited by dwhit6419; Jun 3, 2025 at 05:28 AM.
I do remember when he was checking the stator his multimeter read 0L I believe and when checking A to B, A to C, and B to C that reading never changed on his multimeter. Conclusion was a continuity was fine. Does that sound right? He then checked voltage at the battery with the bike running and it wouldn't go above 12.3 I believe which led us to believe the voltage regulator was bad.
He was checking to see if grounded out. But should check output, especually if you got it taken apart that far,
Originally Posted by dwhit6419
was not backfiring or stalking before the new vr.
He was a mechanic and understands electrical quite well, but as you said we may not have done it exactly right. We disconnected the stator plug from the VR and checked continuity in the 3 hole stator plug. I don't exactly remember how/if we checked the voltage regulator, but he thought that was the issue. I'm so bad at understanding the electrical items that I have no idea . The bike ran great until I came to a stop after 15ish miles. That's when it wouldn't stay running unless I kept the rpms up.
You can learn, just don't ay I can't.
It may have been running off battery, and only partially charging for 15 miles. I am only guessing from here. If you have not charged the battery since then go see what it read, then see if it will start. I would be charging the battery between events when trouble shooting.
Another half assed way to check battery, is charge it. And then see if it starts in a few days being off charge.
I would check AC output and see you get around 70-80 volts AC at 3-4k rpm. I would put a meter on the battery DC, rev it up and should not go over 14.4ish DC. Take it up 4kRPM or so, it won't hurt it.
He was checking to see if grounded out. But should check output, especually if you got it taken apart that far,
You can learn, just don't ay I can't.
It may have been running off battery, and only partially charging for 15 miles. I am only guessing from here. If you have not charged the battery since then go see what it read, then see if it will start. I would be charging the battery between events when trouble shooting.
Another half assed way to check battery, is charge it. And then see if it starts in a few days being off charge.
I would check AC output and see you get around 70-80 volts AC at 3-4k rpm. I would put a meter on the battery DC, rev it up and should not go over 14.4ish DC. Take it up 4kRPM or so, it won't hurt it.
Sorry for asking but getting a little overwhelmed. How do I check the AC output? By the time I'm done I'll have a much better understanding of all this...
Sorry for asking but getting a little overwhelmed. How do I check the AC output? By the time I'm done I'll have a much better understanding of all this...
Put your meter on AC and sticking one lead in each hole. I believe the 2006 with have 3 holes? Come between them. Google this. J&P has good videos.
My 2001 is easy, 2007 is PIA cause connector on bottom of volt reg.
Just went home at lunch break and did a high idle test at the battery. 4000 RPMs for 30 seconds roughly and it didn't go above 14.43 volts.
The battery voltage was 12.3 after sitting for 2 days before start, went to 14.3 at idle and held right around there at 4,000 RPMs
Last edited by dwhit6419; Jun 3, 2025 at 10:48 AM.
Go to facebook and join this group: Click on files and type in the year of your bike. Scroll down and find an Electrical diagnostic manual and copy it to your hard drive.
I made the write up below as something easy to reference. Hope it helps.
Harley Davidson Charging System description and testing
Description:
The charging system consists of 3 major parts:
1- An Alternator that generates single phase or three phase alternating current, (AC).
The Alternator has 2 parts:
Rotor:
Attached to the primary side of the crankshaft. The Rotor has a series of permanent magnets and rotates around the Stator at engine speed.
Stator:
Attached to the crank case and has a series of wound wire coils. The Rotor fits over the stationary stator. As the Rotor spins around the Stator the rotating magnetic fields induce Alternating Current in the stationary coils. The Stator’s coils are arraigned so the AC output is either single or three phase.
2- Voltage Regulator, (VR), rectifies the Alternating Current, (AC), from the Stator to Direct Current,(DC), and limits the voltage output to a value close to 14.5 V DC.
3- Battery, a 12V rechargeable storage device used to supply power to the bikes electrical circuits.
As shown in the schematic the charging system includes insulated conductors and connectors carrying current from the stator to the VR through the main fuse to the starter and on to the battery positive. The VR negative lead and the battery negative lead are both connected to Chassis ground.
This system can be checked with a few easy tests using a digital or analog Volt–Ohm Meter.
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher:
Test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator. If resistance is more than 0.5 ohm check ground connection for corrosion and wire for damage. If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
