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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
The voltage regulator should never let you get to 16 if working, I don't understand why LEDS matter. Write the codes down, and then clear them. You don't know when they came in.

I might charge the battery, then go for short ride staying close to home watch for check engine light. It will disappear if not up, but will be stored.

Problem is may be intermittent. But 16 volts does indicate good idea to replace volt reg. Question now is how is you charging system?
I'll do that and see what happens. Thank you
I don't know why LED lights would do that either but it might be part that slows the blinker down that's causing the issue. It's just funny that it popped up when I was doing a search for those codes.
 

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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 06:34 PM
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Other problem is high voltage will damage equipment. Any burnt out bulbs? Could it effect something an cause this, I do not know.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2025 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rounders
Other problem is high voltage will damage equipment. Any burnt out bulbs? Could it effect something an cause this, I do not know.
Everything is LED and I haven't honestly checked that but I will. Those equalizers that get installed with the LEDs can get super hot quickly if the blinkers are on for any amount of time..
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 06:48 AM
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So this morning before work I took another look at the stator wire and found this. I can't believe I missed it. Is this enough to create what I've been fighting? Does it mean replace the stator, or tape it up and run it? I think I know, but...

 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 07:05 AM
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Depends if the wires inside are intact, frayed, broken, or corroded.

Me, I would use a pick and pull the outside casing out a bit and inspect to see if the inner insulation is intact. If all looked good, I would clean it good, put a spot of good silicone RTV where it is broken, use some good electrical tape over the RTV and tape it up, then run it to see how it behaves.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646
Depends if the wires inside are intact, frayed, broken, or corroded.

Me, I would use a pick and pull the outside casing out a bit and inspect to see if the inner insulation is intact. If all looked good, I would clean it good, put a spot of good silicone RTV where it is broken, use some good electrical tape over the RTV and tape it up, then run it to see how it behaves.
Project for tonight...
Thank you CoolBreeze!
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 10:09 AM
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OP that sure ain't good. That wire looks like it is frayed or dang near cut in two under the insulation. Hard to tell for sure. I battled a similar problem with a regulator wire like that on my shovelhead many years ago. It would run fine for a while then quit charging. I guess what you could do is put your volt meter leads on the battery terminals with some alligator clips, crank the bike then gently move that wire to see if the voltage changes. If it comes and goes it MIGHT be possible to patch that wire with a good solder job, but you would have to carefully dig down into the strain relief to get enough wire to work with. That cut is in an awful bad spot.

Vernal that is an awesome link you shared with us. I don't do much with Facebook but it would be worth it to grab a couple of those wiring manuals. I think the new ones in hard copy are about $150. I wonder if they have one for my 2023?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
OP that sure ain't good. That wire looks like it is frayed or dang near cut in two under the insulation. Hard to tell for sure. I battled a similar problem with a regulator wire like that on my shovelhead many years ago. It would run fine for a while then quit charging. I guess what you could do is put your volt meter leads on the battery terminals with some alligator clips, crank the bike then gently move that wire to see if the voltage changes. If it comes and goes it MIGHT be possible to patch that wire with a good solder job, but you would have to carefully dig down into the strain relief to get enough wire to work with. That cut is in an awful bad spot.

Vernal that is an awesome link you shared with us. I don't do much with Facebook but it would be worth it to grab a couple of those wiring manuals. I think the new ones in hard copy are about $150. I wonder if they have one for my 2023?
Yes, being so close to the plug is not good. When I open it up and clean it out we'll see how bad it is. Most likely new stator time as I sure you can't just change the wire out.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 11:48 AM
  #59  
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I wonder if you can buy just the socket and pigtail and splice? It would be nice to just change the socket only, but that's probably asking too much.
 

Last edited by dwhit6419; Jun 5, 2025 at 12:06 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 04:45 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
O
Vernal that is an awesome link you shared with us. I don't do much with Facebook but it would be worth it to grab a couple of those wiring manuals. I think the new ones in hard copy are about $150. I wonder if they have one for my 2023?
2006 could probably find cheap on ebay. I bought cheap electric manual parts manuals a couple years ago, look unused. I wouldn't own a harley without a factory manual.
Originally Posted by dwhit6419
I wonder if you can buy just the socket and pigtail and splice? It would be nice to just change the socket only, but that's probably asking too much.
Nope. Sucks and that plugs is prone to leaking.
Originally Posted by CoolBreeze3646
Depends if the wires inside are intact, frayed, broken, or corroded.

Me, I would use a pick and pull the outside casing out a bit and inspect to see if the inner insulation is intact. If all looked good, I would clean it good, put a spot of good silicone RTV where it is broken, use some good electrical tape over the RTV and tape it up, then run it to see how it behaves.
For once I agree. Again I would charge battery and see if everything is good until battery gets low.
 
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