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Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #461  
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rg_dave
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From: Cypress, TX
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Originally Posted by 2011_Glide
I have read this entire thread and alot of others about this. But, my question is how long does it take from start to finish to get these bars on?

I was told by a mech that it is a 5 1/2 hours job. I think that is a little long..

Any help?
It took me about that long but I had never done it with these bars and this bike. I'd say if you have the right tools and have done it a few times it should be 3 1/2 to 4. If they're smart they're building in some CYA time.

30 min disassemble and remove old bars and controls
15 min Remove wires from molex connectors taking detailed digital photos
15 min shrink wrap wires (I don't splice wires with 12s, just relocate the plugs under the radio. 10s you dont need to do anything with extending wires))
10 mins pull clutch side
1 hr to pull throttle side
(After doing this twice now I can do it in about 30 mins. The first time I almost slit my wrists from frustration but it still only took me about an hour)
10 min install poly bushings and bars
30 min to run clutch cable
(on the newer bikes you don't have to pull the exhaust. Just park the bike on about an 1" elevated surface and lean it over on the jiffy stand. Use a long ball allen to remove the cover. You don't spill any fluid. Use a bit of grease to hold the clutch atuator ***** in place.)
30 min to run upper and mid brake line and bleed
(faster if they use the digital tech. Thats only if you have ABS. No ABS a set of speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder makes it simple)
30 min to reassemble

It took me a lot longer the first time I did it because I went much slower disassmbling and assembling, double and triple checking as I went.
This leaves them about 1.5 hr of wiggle room for problems.

I'd say thats a fair estimate.
 

Last edited by rg_dave; Mar 20, 2012 at 12:41 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 09:48 PM
  #462  
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2011_Glide
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 169
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From: North Carolina
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Originally Posted by SG_Dave
It took me about that long but I had never done it with these bars and this bike. I'd say if you have the right tools and have done it a few times it should be 3 1/2 to 4. If they're smart they're building in some CYA time.

30 min disassemble and remove old bars and controls
15 min Remove wires from molex connectors taking detailed digital photos
15 min shrink wrap wires (I don't splice wires with 12s, just relocate the plugs under the radio. 10s you dont need to do anything with extending wires))
10 mins pull clutch side
1 hr to pull throttle side
(After doing this twice now I can do it in about 30 mins. The first time I almost slit my wrists from frustration but it still only took me about an hour)
10 min install poly bushings and bars
30 min to run clutch cable
(on the newer bikes you don't have to pull the exhaust. Just park the bike on about an 1" elevated surface and lean it over on the jiffy stand. Use a long ball allen to remove the cover. You don't spill any fluid. Use a bit of grease to hold the clutch atuator ***** in place.)
30 min to run upper and mid brake line and bleed
(faster if they use the digital tech. Thats only if you have ABS. No ABS a set of speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder makes it simple)
30 min to reassemble

It took me a lot longer the first time I did it because I went much slower disassmbling and assembling, double and triple checking as I went.
This leaves them about 1.5 hr of wiggle room for problems.

I'd say thats a fair estimate.
I really appreciate the response.
I just wasn't sure if it would really take that long. I didn't think about all the little details.

The mech told me he would do it for 280. So, after looking at the breakdown, I guess that is fair.

Thanks
Shane
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:12 AM
  #463  
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jcal054
Stage II
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2
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Default almost done

this has been a bitch of a job....it took me and a couple of friends almost 9 hours to finally pull the TBW cable and the control cables at the same time. anyway i dont have the luxury of working on the bike everyday so we have taken our time. My question to all of you that have these bars on a street glide or something similar, is there a noticeable space between the black piece where the ignition switch is and the inner fairing? if so can you tell me if there is anything that can correct this or not. thx
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:17 AM
  #464  
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jjnoble
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Originally Posted by 2011_Glide
I really appreciate the response.
I just wasn't sure if it would really take that long. I didn't think about all the little details.

The mech told me he would do it for 280. So, after looking at the breakdown, I guess that is fair.

Thanks
Shane

$280 to change your bars? That is an extremely good price.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:34 AM
  #465  
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xd.404life
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Posts: 426
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From: The Great State of TEXAS!!!
Default Love these bars

Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)-p9150001-1024x768-.jpg

Monkey Bagger Bars with Pics (Install)-p9150002-768x1024-.jpg

can't wait to get home from Afghanistan and ride again.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:03 PM
  #466  
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rg_dave
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Cypress, TX
Default

Originally Posted by 2011_Glide
I really appreciate the response.
I just wasn't sure if it would really take that long. I didn't think about all the little details.

The mech told me he would do it for 280. So, after looking at the breakdown, I guess that is fair.

Thanks
Shane
Dude! I've done two sets. I'm pretty comfortable doing it now. Like I said the second set was much easier than the first but I would jump all over that price any day of the week. As long as you're confident in the work he does. There are a lot of little things to screw up. Front brakes are life and death.

And I forgot to say it earlier. Thank you for your service. My stepbrother is on his third tour now. We pray for you guys often.
 

Last edited by rg_dave; Mar 21, 2012 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #467  
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rg_dave
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Cypress, TX
Default

Originally Posted by jcal054
this has been a bitch of a job....it took me and a couple of friends almost 9 hours to finally pull the TBW cable and the control cables at the same time. anyway i dont have the luxury of working on the bike everyday so we have taken our time. My question to all of you that have these bars on a street glide or something similar, is there a noticeable space between the black piece where the ignition switch is and the inner fairing? if so can you tell me if there is anything that can correct this or not. thx
No gaps here. How did you run the brake line? Depending on where it is, top, bottom, front or back, it can push the switch cover out. I'll take a look when I get home and see if I see other reasons. did you pull the switch and make sure everything is right underneath it?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #468  
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rg_dave
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From: Cypress, TX
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Originally Posted by xd.404life
Attachment 239745

Attachment 239746

can't wait to get home from Afghanistan and ride again.

Thank you for your service!

Hey, where is the station in your pic? If that is a picture of you I swear I've talked to you about the MBBs at that station but I am getting to the time in my life where lots of memories run together.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #469  
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2011_Glide
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Originally Posted by SG_Dave
Dude! I've done two sets. I'm pretty comfortable doing it now. Like I said the second set was much easier than the first but I would jump all over that price any day of the week. As long as you're confident in the work he does. There are a lot of little things to screw up. Front brakes are life and death.

And I forgot to say it earlier. Thank you for your service. My stepbrother is on his third tour now. We pray for you guys often.
If you go and look at my pics, look at the 2003 Night Train that I had. This is the same guy that did all of the work to that bike. He did the PM 240, front end, motor, ect on that bike. He has been to MMI and now owns a shop. He definitely knows what he is doing. We have been friends for a long time. He is the one that is doing the work to my Street Glide now.

I guess I am going to pull the trigger and get them. He is charging me $325 for the bars and $280 for the install.

Thanks for the input.

Shane
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:11 AM
  #470  
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JCCASH
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Originally Posted by 2011_Glide
I guess I am going to pull the trigger and get them. He is charging me $325 for the bars and $280 for the install.
Shane
So where does this guy live? I'll get him to work on mine as well. ;-)
 
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