When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I am in the process of installing a Vance and Hines Pro pipe on my 10 Street Glide. Since we are having a late spring, (it snowed again last night...REALLY!), I have been taking my time as time permits. Well in any event I finally got around to actually bolting the new exhaust pieces on the bike last night. I intended to replace both exhaust port gaskets and some weeks ago replaced the rear apparently. So I was looking at the front last night and it appeared as though I had replaced it already as well because it looked perfectly new, no depressions in it and not crushed in any way. So I'm bolting up the new exhaust and then realize I hadn't replaced the front gasket yet, as I found it in my tool box with a note..."Don't forget to replace front, rear is done already" Sheit! The saving grace might be that the Vance and Hines head pipe has a more rounded end that fits into the head and seems to cover more gasket area as opposed to the stock pipe which seems to actually feed through the stock gaskets. I guess I'm looking for opinions from folks that have actally reused gaskets and if it was successful or should I pull the whole damn thing apart again and change the front? I haven't tightened down the exhaust flange bolts holding the pipe to the heads yet but everything else is assembled loosly at this point. I also have two other questions:
1.) How in the hell do you get to that front lower exhaust flange bolt in order to ensre it is torqued properly? I tried everything including a swivel socket and cannot get in there to properly torque it to the 100 inch pounds?
2.) Is there some tried and true trick to tell if the gaskets are leaking at the heads?
1.) How in the hell do you get to that front lower exhaust flange bolt in order to ensre it is torqued properly? I tried everything including a swivel socket and cannot get in there to properly torque it to the 100 inch pounds? I used a 1/4 drive 1/2 " socket on a 1/4" drive torque wrench and had no problem torquing lower bolt. Be sure and follow torquing procedure from manual and retorque after bringing to operating temp and cooling back down this will ensure proper torque and no leaks
When I switched out my exhaust, I changed over to the "hi-tech" nuts by ARP. They
make a 12-Point nut that fits with a serrated shoulder. Then I picked up a 12-Point
Socket (1/4" Drive) from Sears. The 12-Point socket is much smaller (e.g. thinner wall)and gives you that extra room in those tight flange areas....
I just did mine this weekend and also could not get in with a torque wrench, so I torqued the other 3 and measured the depth then made the 4th the same depth with a box end wrench.......You will know if is not sealed, trust me!!!
I just did mine this weekend and also could not get in with a torque wrench, so I torqued the other 3 and measured the depth then made the 4th the same depth with a box end wrench.......You will know if is not sealed, trust me!!!
How will I know if there is a minor leak or is it that obvious? I am concerned about the front gasket not being replaced but as I mentioned however I thought that it had been. It was in that kind of perfect shape.
Also as a note, I tried a 1/4 drive and I don't see any way to get by the down tube regardless? The only thing I can get into there is a 1/4 combo wrench. Please give me that secret.
I'm excited to get it finished. I chose to push the muffler just a little further forward onto the head pipe so that the muffler ends just past the bag. This does not allow me to get the 1/16 gap they want between the tail end of the muffler heat shield and the muffler itself. It looks a whole lot better without the gap however. I think they want the 1/16 gap to keep the shield from rattling on the muffler, although I don't see how that can really happen as tight as the shield fits. We shall see. I'm still concerned about getting that bottom front exhaust port nut torqued and I'm also hoping the front used gasket will be ok. As I mentioned, it looked so new I thought it was the new one. Too late now unless I want to pull everything apart again. I think I'll tighten it up and see how it goes first. Not much to lose. If it leakss I'll have to take it apart again anyway. If it doesn't I've saved some time.
Also as a note, I tried a 1/4 drive and I don't see any way to get by the down tube regardless? The only thing I can get into there is a 1/4 combo wrench. Please give me that secret.MY 1/4" DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH FIT BETWEEN DOWN TUBE AND BOLT i HAD TO TURN WHEEL TO LEFT AND HAD WRENCH ABOVE FENDER FACING CLUTCH SIDE OF BIKE
I am thinking of buying them. Let me know what you think of the sound when you get it done. Did you put on a breather too? The reviews seem positive on it.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.