120R mileage and reliability
I bought one of the early 120Rs, (non billet cam plate) with 58mm T/B big injectors and AC for $5K and I changed the engines myself. I had an 02' spring and installed the 67Aim VPC and had no problems with the clutch set up. I already had a Thundermax AT. I also changed the cams to move the curve to the left. I had 20K miles on mine before a lifter went bad, and marked up the cam, oil pump and the top of the stem of the intake valve. This motor is and was awesome, although, I did ride it above mild about 10% of the time.
Fuel Moto love;
FM milled and touched up the heads, installed new woods cams, cam plate w/high volume oil pump, woods lifters, new intake valves, FM push rods,FM XXX ceramic head pipe, and the Power Vision with Dyno tune. The results are awesome and on FM FB page.
Fuel Moto love;
FM milled and touched up the heads, installed new woods cams, cam plate w/high volume oil pump, woods lifters, new intake valves, FM push rods,FM XXX ceramic head pipe, and the Power Vision with Dyno tune. The results are awesome and on FM FB page.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 2
From: Pennsylvania
I also have the urge/ bug for increased displacement and better performance but, I leave that to the professionals/ independent(s) to build and tune for a living. I have done my due diligence and spoken to many reputable independents along with reading on many forums and the overwhelming consensus is that the 124 S&S has better components being a crate motor out of the gate. Many motorcycle enthusiasts will take either engine and try to improve the initial design causing more stress on other components of the engine. Why do they do this? Because its their prerogative to do so.
I agree that there are pros and cons to each engine. I personally would rather buy a complete engine motor with a warranty rather than one without. Regardless of whether it is 1-2 years its still better than nothing.
My post was not intended to bash the 120R rather bring some light to the subject. I guess the old proverbial saying applies "Opinions are like ***&($%@. Everybody has one, but nobody wants to see the other guy's."
Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
I don't post much because I am not a mechanic nor know the intricacies of building an engine or performance modifications. I understand general concepts of air, fuel and exhaust for performance and complete general maintenance as needed. I do a lot a reading, asking questions and searching/ researching.
I also have the urge/ bug for increased displacement and better performance but, I leave that to the professionals/ independent(s) to build and tune for a living. I have done my due diligence and spoken to many reputable independents along with reading on many forums and the overwhelming consensus is that the 124 S&S has better components being a crate motor out of the gate. Many motorcycle enthusiasts will take either engine and try to improve the initial design causing more stress on other components of the engine. Why do they do this? Because its their prerogative to do so.
I agree that there are pros and cons to each engine. I personally would rather buy a complete engine motor with a warranty rather than one without. Regardless of whether it is 1-2 years its still better than nothing.
My post was not intended to bash the 120R rather bring some light to the subject. I guess the old proverbial saying applies "Opinions are like ***&($%@. Everybody has one, but nobody wants to see the other guy's."
I also have the urge/ bug for increased displacement and better performance but, I leave that to the professionals/ independent(s) to build and tune for a living. I have done my due diligence and spoken to many reputable independents along with reading on many forums and the overwhelming consensus is that the 124 S&S has better components being a crate motor out of the gate. Many motorcycle enthusiasts will take either engine and try to improve the initial design causing more stress on other components of the engine. Why do they do this? Because its their prerogative to do so.
I agree that there are pros and cons to each engine. I personally would rather buy a complete engine motor with a warranty rather than one without. Regardless of whether it is 1-2 years its still better than nothing.
My post was not intended to bash the 120R rather bring some light to the subject. I guess the old proverbial saying applies "Opinions are like ***&($%@. Everybody has one, but nobody wants to see the other guy's."
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 18
From: Belmont, MI
Like I said a lot of it boils down to whether or not you can do the work yourself and how deep your pockets are. Im lucky as I have done this kind of thing my entire life. I've got less than half the cost of an installed S&S crate motor in my 120 and Ill put the longevity of my build up against the S&S crate any day.
Rick
Rick
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
You make a good point, but if you travel around the country are you going to have better luck finding a place to fix an S&S engine or a Harley engine? Warranty is only as good as the shop you find to do the warranty work, for my ride I'll take my chances finding a shop to work and have parts for a Harley.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 2
From: Pennsylvania
I wish I was mechanically inclined enough to buy the parts and do the labor myself (I would have already upgraded the performance of my ride already). With regards to repairs and riding around the country I would disagree with your statement hd_rolling being able to find a place to repair it. A motorcycle engine is just that, any qualified/ certified mechanic worth a lick should be able to diagnose and repair mechanic issues of a motorcycle regardless of whether its a HD, S&S, JIMS etc. If not, I would not be letting that person work on my bike. The only problem I would see is whether or not the parts were in stock.
Either way, I think we deviated from my initial comment. I would rather buy a crate engine with warranty vs without. Just my .02.....
Either way, I think we deviated from my initial comment. I would rather buy a crate engine with warranty vs without. Just my .02.....
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
You make a good point, but if you travel around the country are you going to have better luck finding a place to fix an S&S engine or a Harley engine? Warranty is only as good as the shop you find to do the warranty work, for my ride I'll take my chances finding a shop to work and have parts for a Harley.
- S&S dealers? Forget it!
- Harley dealers? You must be joking!
- Warranty? Expired long ago.
- Worried? Why should we be?!
What happened to the pioneer spirit, or have you lot all gone soft.....
I bought the 120R crate motor and had it installed. I'm at 14k miles now and without a single problem. In fact the bike handled upwards of 100F temps better than I did in southern Texas, Arizona, New Mexico and California.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 309
Likes: 3
From: West Sacramento CA
Like Rick above, been doing this for long time.... both product are good. I built my 120 from scratch, using DarkHorse for the crank work straight from S.E. and Timkens , using S.E. cyl. and piston. and 110 heads done by Don at Deweys Head Design and Tmans 662-2. corrected geometry roller rockers from Baisley the most important part is the tune. it was done by Bob Lobenberg at R C Cycles. this bike see anywhere from 18 degrees F. to 110 F. temp, so I run Jason's head fans and oil cooler fans. this motor has been back east twice and has 30K miles on it, I did do a top end on it just to check everything out at 25K miles and mainly to replace the lifters. I think if you don't have the skills to work on your own, go with S&S and leave it the way it comes. otherwise your warranty has less value the used toilet paper, for me, I would not let anyone else work on my stuff and like my 120 regardless of no warranty. SAE 151hp 146tq. and 3.68 5th ratio and OD 3.17 is one kick *** ride.
As for mileage, both back east run were with two other bikes, one a 95 and other 103 with bolt in cams, my tank fill was always within .2 gallons of theirs.
If I ever had a catastrophic failure while touring, I'll just rent a U-haul van and tow it home. so far not a problem.
As for mileage, both back east run were with two other bikes, one a 95 and other 103 with bolt in cams, my tank fill was always within .2 gallons of theirs.
If I ever had a catastrophic failure while touring, I'll just rent a U-haul van and tow it home. so far not a problem.
Last edited by JohnCA58; Apr 15, 2014 at 03:25 PM.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 113
Likes: 3
Donnie Peterson did some articles a number of years ago on rear cylinder oil leaks on 103's and 110's. If I remember right the leaks were due to very high heat combined with the cylinder liner actually shifting causing the head gasket to leak. I don't know if that is the case on the 120, but no doubt heat plays a factor.
I think the 120R is not the best engine to put in a full fairing-ed touring bike that gets used in traffic. The engine is meant more for racing than for touring. But to each his own.
I think the 120R is not the best engine to put in a full fairing-ed touring bike that gets used in traffic. The engine is meant more for racing than for touring. But to each his own.
If they get some head work in the interest of longevity including beehive springs and bronze manganese guides and a cam change you have a gentle giant. Take your pick ying or yang.