'o4 flhr tracking help me decide
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
From: poof
'o4 flhr tracking help me decide
I have read ad nauseum and have come to a tentative decision.
Bike is new to me. It had late model factory shocks and lowering blocks (blocks now gone and ohlins s36e are being shipped).
Looking at the options available I have interest in the various bolt-on links (esp. the ones that fit up above the frame rails (but see some of them do reduce clearance just a little). I do not like that they use the trans pan screws for attachment (bi-metallic corrosion and torque on the aluminum pan rail).
I know the poly bushings will increase vibrations (that may or may not diminish slightly over time).
All I know right now is that the bike when equipped with blocks felt as though it was on grooved pavement even when running a straight road. Now it is better, but not yet satisfactory.
So, I'm leaning (pun intended) to the glide-pro w/ front mount kit. I believe I can live with some amount of vibe increase, and if not, later, pull it and join the club that tries various cures.
Has anyone done ohlins + glide-pro and been completely satisfied with the ride?
I have not yet researched what I may do with the front end yet, but looking to a least upgrade to progressive or other spring upgrade.
Bike is new to me. It had late model factory shocks and lowering blocks (blocks now gone and ohlins s36e are being shipped).
Looking at the options available I have interest in the various bolt-on links (esp. the ones that fit up above the frame rails (but see some of them do reduce clearance just a little). I do not like that they use the trans pan screws for attachment (bi-metallic corrosion and torque on the aluminum pan rail).
I know the poly bushings will increase vibrations (that may or may not diminish slightly over time).
All I know right now is that the bike when equipped with blocks felt as though it was on grooved pavement even when running a straight road. Now it is better, but not yet satisfactory.
So, I'm leaning (pun intended) to the glide-pro w/ front mount kit. I believe I can live with some amount of vibe increase, and if not, later, pull it and join the club that tries various cures.
Has anyone done ohlins + glide-pro and been completely satisfied with the ride?
I have not yet researched what I may do with the front end yet, but looking to a least upgrade to progressive or other spring upgrade.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 98
From: Colorado Springs
I would strongly recommend Sta-Bo's. Here's my write-up:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...installed.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...installed.html
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
From: poof
Thank You! I had read your review and appreciate what ou have written.
I take it that you reatined the rubber front motor mount?
Have you done any suspension upgrades (shocks/springs?).
This is all new, and I did not expect unpredictable tracking of the bike at speed.
I take it that you reatined the rubber front motor mount?
Have you done any suspension upgrades (shocks/springs?).
This is all new, and I did not expect unpredictable tracking of the bike at speed.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
1.) check the drive train alignment and replace the motor mounts.
you can check alignment ( horizontally), by placing 2 8' flourescent tubes on each side of the rear tire, the distance from the tubes to front tire should be the same.
( it is possible for the drivetrain to not be in the same plane as the chassis- this means the drivetrain is always pushing to the side, with any change is speed, is a real change is force direction and dynamics
the motor mounts are a "wear part".
2.) swingarm bushings also wear, look into replacing those.
IF you do this, it's a job and the best time to replace the drive belt ( since you are already there.
Look at the basics before strapping a brace onto what may be a chassis that needs a little re and re.
I would suggest that the swingarm bushings by done by a tech experienced. his practiced eye may see something a novice won't- same with mounts and the drivetrain re-alignment.
if you are comfy with it, you could pull the primary and clutch.
mike
you can check alignment ( horizontally), by placing 2 8' flourescent tubes on each side of the rear tire, the distance from the tubes to front tire should be the same.
( it is possible for the drivetrain to not be in the same plane as the chassis- this means the drivetrain is always pushing to the side, with any change is speed, is a real change is force direction and dynamics
the motor mounts are a "wear part".
2.) swingarm bushings also wear, look into replacing those.
IF you do this, it's a job and the best time to replace the drive belt ( since you are already there.
Look at the basics before strapping a brace onto what may be a chassis that needs a little re and re.
I would suggest that the swingarm bushings by done by a tech experienced. his practiced eye may see something a novice won't- same with mounts and the drivetrain re-alignment.
if you are comfy with it, you could pull the primary and clutch.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Feb 4, 2012 at 02:48 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
From: poof
mk thank you for the info. I've been wrenching for years (started in early 70's) on all things american mechanical (shy away from metrics). First two purchases for this 16k mile bike were owners and fs manual. I've done way more reading and hands on the bike than riding. Several improvements and maintenance needs have beenperformed and now I am opening the bag to make improvements for performance and safety. My and my wifes lives depend on it.
I want to say I do appreciate your insight and help in learning!
I checked alignment with carefully set up stringlines (retired engineer) and also checked play in all bushings and bearings (inc. steering head). Everything is good and tight/conforming to appropriate fsm sections. I believe the biggest problem was the lo-budget lowering and now that I am correcting that, will procede on with what I feel are needed. Before each phase I plan to road test. I don't plan to do more than one improvement at a time, thus I will be able to isolate what is causing the issue.
thx again!
I want to say I do appreciate your insight and help in learning!
I checked alignment with carefully set up stringlines (retired engineer) and also checked play in all bushings and bearings (inc. steering head). Everything is good and tight/conforming to appropriate fsm sections. I believe the biggest problem was the lo-budget lowering and now that I am correcting that, will procede on with what I feel are needed. Before each phase I plan to road test. I don't plan to do more than one improvement at a time, thus I will be able to isolate what is causing the issue.
thx again!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
after fitting your ohlins, try replacing the fork oil and see if that makes any difference. maybe with a little heavier weight.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 0
From: poof
I was thinking about doing just that. Am I correct that factory is 7.5w, thinking I'll try 10w.
Trying to not stray too far here, I do not like the way the front end dives when I approach a stop. I do not know what the po did to this bike in lowering it, but I know I want to try some different springs. I only wish there were a cheaper way to 'try out'.
Trying to not stray too far here, I do not like the way the front end dives when I approach a stop. I do not know what the po did to this bike in lowering it, but I know I want to try some different springs. I only wish there were a cheaper way to 'try out'.
Trending Topics
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
I was thinking about doing just that. Am I correct that factory is 7.5w, thinking I'll try 10w.
Trying to not stray too far here, I do not like the way the front end dives when I approach a stop. I do not know what the po did to this bike in lowering it, but I know I want to try some different springs. I only wish there were a cheaper way to 'try out'.
Trying to not stray too far here, I do not like the way the front end dives when I approach a stop. I do not know what the po did to this bike in lowering it, but I know I want to try some different springs. I only wish there were a cheaper way to 'try out'.
Type "E" is 5 weight - the lightest one
Type "B" is 10 weight
Type "screamin' eagle" is 15 weight
Type "screamin' eagle racing oil" is 20 weight
Type "B" is 10 weight
Type "screamin' eagle" is 15 weight
Type "screamin' eagle racing oil" is 20 weight
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
