I had been noticing a wobble a highway speeds and it was growing in intensity this summer. I don't know for certain if it was because the actual problem was intensifying or if I was now aware of it an paying attention.

I began researching it and talking to "people" here on the web and real people out on the streets who I know to have many years of riding and troubleshooting experience. I also talked to a couple friends who own indy shops looking for direction.

The symptoms:
Entering a sweeping turn at highway speeds (50 - 100 mph), I'd feel an initial give, almost as if I'd rolled over a hot tar patch/seem that gave a little. Then it would push back a little, like I regripped. Then it would do this again and again in the turn. It was on about a once a second pulse (maybe a little faster) and felt like it was in the rear. I did not have front end unsteadiness, I could ride in a straight line with no hands for miles.

The first diagnostics:
- I checked my tires: good tread depth and wear, PSI was spot on.
- Wheels seem to spin true and don't lead me to believe I have a balancing issue.
- The brake pads are clear of the rotors all the way around the rotation.
- I have Progressive 940 shocks in the rear (not the HD Air Ride) and they are properly adjusted.
- My saddlebags are evenly loaded.

Next round: (The Fall Away Test)

My friend Bear who builds custom bikes in Kansas City asked when the last time I did any front end maintenance was with that knowing look. That sent me to the manual to investigate. Here I learned that the Steering Head Bearing can cause tracking issues, in fact it says (I'm paraphrasing) if the steering head bearing is too tight it can hamper the bike's ability to absorb a weave and if it's too loose it can lead to a wobble. To test the steering head bearing, do a Fall Away test.

- Jack the bike up so the front tire is off the ground and the bars / front tire can move freely.
- remove or position any cables or gear so that the bars can move however they want.
- hold the bars all the way to one side.
- let go.
- the front tire should now swing to the opposite direction, then back just past center then come to rest at center, perhaps traveling just past once more. (consult your manual, the number of swings depends on your model).
- if it does not swing enough, of swings too much, you'll need to adjust the steering head bearing.

Mine was so tight that it never made it to center from either direction.

The process for adjusting the steering head bearing is pretty straight forward. I followed the manual's directions in my garage.

After several road tests I noticed an immediate and definite improvement. Although it was not completely fixed. I still had some rear end (so it felt) wiggle and now the front end felt a little loose. Perhaps paranoia, I don't know.

I ordered the Progressive Tour-Link for my 2010 FLHX and pulled my baby up on the lift.

The install was pretty straight forward and taught me another lesson in keeping my tools better organized. I did the install by myself in about 90 minutes including nearly removing my exhaust. I then slightly tightened the steering head bearing, another 60 minutes.

This past weekend I got to do a lot of very hot riding (it was 106 in KC yesterday) and the bike is now tracking perfectly! I have no give in the turns and the handling response is better than I ever remember. For an 800lb touring bike, she is now incredibly graceful.

The only thing I think she needs now is an upgraded front suspension. I'll be ditching the OEM open bath damping system for progressive's mono-tube kit after I get back from Sturgis and see if I have any money left.

 

Graham,
Great write up, please add me to your PM list.

 

Pondskipper

Same here!

I think 9 out of 10 bikes have a bad alignment from the factory, throw in a bad steering head adjustment, fork oil not changed often enough, tire pressure, and just lack of grip tires and it spells disaster. Correct and maintain that and its good.

But instead of correcting the problem some like to blame it on the rear and push a product that isn't needed.

 

Ill take a PM, light wobble fully loaded on a few high speed sweepers 09 Ultra

 

Thanks for this excellent post

 

Great explanation. Please include me in your pm's

 

Same here, please add me too. Great write up!

 

Thank you to grbrown for explaining the wobble and mike5511 for pointing out that we should all be true and stay on track. It's amazing how many people just don't get it. I also wanted to add that I purchased a 05 Police edition bagger. I have been slowly customizing it. After I replaced the rear tire (it was a run-flat) and lowered the rear one inch with lowering brackets I felt my first wobble. I was doing 55 or 60 following a semi going straight. Later I was alone on the road and felt a slight wobble. I'm thinking the run-flats have stiffer sidewalls and help prevented my bike from wobbling. I am going to investigate having my dealer or aftermarket local bike builder install a stabilizer. I don't understand those who don't believe there is a problem just because they have not experienced it. Its not like it a shiny part were adding to boost are egos. Really some people should take the warning of others, especially when there is no financial gain by those warning them. Just my two cents. But thank you both, and be safe.

 

Graham, could you by chance drink Dos Equis beer, "stay thirsty my friend" PM please

 

I broke the code!