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When I bought my first Harley, the dealer handed me a 1L bottle of S100 and said cut it 50/50 with water and it will work well. Since then I use a spray bottle mix of S100 and water. It works well.
I use the S100 mixture on the driveline, wheels, chrome and underside of the bike. I don't expect it to be a "miracle soap" so I use a wash mit or brush to help it out. Its a good degreaser, gets rid of brake dust and road grime easily. I use regular car wash soap (and water) on the painted sufaces.
I dry my bike with a leaf blower, then a towel. Then finish the bike up with some of the final detailers.
I use the S100 mixture on the driveline, wheels, chrome and underside of the bike. I don't expect it to be a "miracle soap" so I use a wash mit or brush to help it out. Its a good degreaser, gets rid of brake dust and road grime easily. I use regular car wash soap (and water) on the painted sufaces.
I dry my bike with a leaf blower, then a towel. Then finish the bike up with some of the final detailers.
Good luck.
I agree....I use it on the chrome, engine and wheels. But I always wash the entire bike with soap and water afterwards. Rinse, Leaf blower, then towel dry. No spotting at all. And then wax the tin's with Mothers Paste wax.. The S100 just makes the washing alittle easyer, and easyer yet.....Let the wife do it!
Here's a little suggestion for to use along with whatever wash chemicals you decide on.. I was a professional detailer for near 10 years. Always carried deionized or "spot free" water. Back then I had the whole tank and mobile setup. Don't have all that now, so I just got a blue water container that holds about 7 gallons from walmart. I take it to a detailing supplier to fill with DI water for about $.15 per gallon. I store it and refill a pump style garden sprayer (home depot) that I use to wash down the bike with. No hose needed, and the bike dries spot free. Drying with a blower is always ideal, but this way you keep all the hard water/ minerals out of the equation. Works well for me.
I really wish an S100 rep would get on this forum and help dispel any misconceptions - that way we might find out for sure the good and the bad.
That being said, I have used it a few times over the past year or so, and have had no issues. I followed the directions carefully and applied to a cool bike and rinsed thoroughly.
I have used it since the early 90s with no issues..but I do as directed...out of sun and wash with plenty of water ...o and it lasts forever I use sparingly...it takes my money every time . A solid product . I also follow with 3m paint sealant. No wax clay and paint sealant..
Here's a little suggestion for to use along with whatever wash chemicals you decide on.. I was a professional detailer for near 10 years. Always carried deionized or "spot free" water. Back then I had the whole tank and mobile setup. Don't have all that now, so I just got a blue water container that holds about 7 gallons from walmart. I take it to a detailing supplier to fill with DI water for about $.15 per gallon. I store it and refill a pump style garden sprayer (home depot) that I use to wash down the bike with. No hose needed, and the bike dries spot free. Drying with a blower is always ideal, but this way you keep all the hard water/ minerals out of the equation. Works well for me.
+1 on this... spotting can be a result of the minerals/chemicals in the rinse water. I purchased and installed a set of DI tanks at my house years ago and use them solely for washing my vehicles, boat, and bike. I let the vehicles and boat air dry without worry of spotting and use a blower on the bike just to get any water out of the cracks and crevices but don't have to worry about spots on the paint.
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