Man, the Outback is where there looking? I would have thought main street or any of the massive numbers of vendor parking lots.
Still don't think I'll deface my engine in the chance that the police in Daytona are going bike to bike looking for 120R engines, which only the crate ones come with the 120R logo. I believe the ones the dealers assemble just have the standard screaming eagle logo on the heads.

Must be more 120R crate engines rolling around than I thought there would be, since there so illegal an all.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

Sounds like this thread went a little off topic from DD7 installs to 120R engines.

Anyway, in case you're interested I installed a DD7 in my 2010 Road King last year. I'm a home mechanic but by no means an expert. Bought the special tools I needed from Georges Garage. Installation was not difficult following the Baker Instructions and the Service manual.

 

Thanks for the input and getting us back on topic. How do you like the DD7 ? Are you running the stock 96 ? What were the special tools you needed ? I do have the service manual. I'm weighing what I will need to pay for the special tools vs. having a local Indy mechanic do the install, though I would prefers to do it myself.

 

Yup, in post 9 the OP specifically asked questions pertaining to 120R's, sorry he asked questions in his thread that wasn't relevant to his title.

 

I have the DD7 also. You'll need a primary locking bar a trans pullylock tool,the mainshaft gear drive tool and seal installer and the bearing race tool.It's one on those jobs that you need 3 hands sometimes.My biggest problem was getting the top cover on............

 

I would check with your independent of choice to see what he would charge then compare that against the cost of the tools you will need, probably only once...however, it is possible that you could rent or borrow the tools, too...might be pretty close, actually...

 

A little 'enginuity' could help you avoid the cost of those expensive 'special' tools...

Sprocket locks can be made of most anything, from flat bar stock to a box end wrench like I use. I cut & ground a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to make something that would brace between the belt pulley and the swing arm mount to pull that one. You could even put the tranny in a higher gear to lock it well enough to remove them.

You can also put together a bit of all-thread with nuts/washers and some piping (or flat bar) cut to size to make your own bearing puller/installer that would work just as well as one you purchase for a couple hundred.

You can use a die grinder, or Dremel tool, to remove the main shaft race. Then you can replace the OEM bearing with the high torque bearing sold by Baker or others, which just slips onto the main shaft. You will need to press it into the inner primary though. Use the home made all thread device for that also!

Most of the seals in Harley engines can almost be pushed in by hand. Careful tapping with a hammer on a flat bar laid over the seal definitely works.

None of those specialty tools are absolutely necessary. But, if you do buy them, you could rent them out to others who believe they are...

 

Yep, I'm doing that research now. Two different independents I have used both quoted 5 hours labor. Looks like it will be pretty close from the cost of the tools, to just having one of the Indy guys do it. Plus one of them is one of the largest Baker distributors and installers around and he is building some bad *** engines that I may be interested in.

 

You are correct. I use to work on airplanes and helicopters and we had to build a lot of the special tools we used.These days I'm a little lazier than I once was and if I can have an Indy do the install for close to what the tools would cost, or cost me in time to build myself I will probably go the lazy route ! LOL.

 

Sounds like the 120 got busted for doing 120 mph +++