If you tell us exactly how you adjusted the prs and what felt different from the other 3, we might be able to help a bit - I just don't follow what happened here...

If you don't want the travel limiters, you can remove them easily enough but I think they are a nice addition. I can't imagine that one of your S&S lifters is defective but you got my interest peaked for sure.

 

The latter half of this page are the directions I follow for their adjustment.

http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/

When you go four-turns down, wait 15-20 minutes, the PR's still have pressure against them, you can't turn them by hand, you shorten the PR until you can turn them by your fingers with some resistance, then you shorten the PR one full turn and lock it down.

On this lifter, it was easily turnable by fingers (after the 15-20 minutes) without having to shorten it at all, so I turned it one turn and locked it down.

It may be fine, they aren't exactly all the same but normally you have to loosen it 1-2 full turns to loosen it after the initial bleed down.

 

I originally had just the premiums, and later added their spacers. I followed their instructions and it's fine thus far year later.

 

Method sounds spot on. Only thing I might add is when you first go four turns down you should feel the difference when you start to lift the valve vs the feel of compressing the lifter spring down - the valve spring is much stiffer. This is especially true if you did not preload the lifters with oil, if you did then I am not so sure how distinct the difference would be. Anyways, you want to lengthen the pr enough so that you do lift up the valve - 4 turns should do it IF you are indeed at zero lash when you start, but if needed I would go beyond 4 turns to ensure the valve is lifted then come back later to loosen until twistable with your fingers and back off 1 turn.

Not sure if this helps but maybe hearing from another S&S limiter user is good....

 

Had to go get it some gas, then the battery died trying to start it. Turns over, sucks air like an ogre , nothing made any negative sounds, so far so good.

I've had the battery on it's charger most of this time but it quickly expired it. Got it on the charger, we'll see in a little bit.

It said it had a crank sensor error but cleared it.

Washed and gave it a little wax, she sure looks good sitting there, I will say that

 

That's half the battle suede

 

Here's proof it's together anyway.

If the battery charges up enough maybe I'll attempt a compression test.

 

Leave it attached to the tender while you do the compression test so it doesn't drain it all the way. You're compression test should prime the pump and lifters as well

 

Just caught up on this thread and thought for sure I was gonna get to see a video of this fire breathing beast! Damn battery! Mine died the first time I tried to fire it too. I'd be willing to bet your valve train will be quiet, I have limiters and the adjustment was pretty simple and mines quiet. Did you crank it over with the plugs out and fuel pump fuse pulled to build some pressure? Did you put any oil down into the crank sensor hole? I put 6 ounces in the sensor hole, 1/4 qt into the cam chest through the lifter blocks and 2 quarts in the tank.

The breather setup looks nice too, I ended up ditching the filter I was using because like 4 of them fell apart on me and scratched up my powder coat which pissed me off. I ended up running 5/16" hose down behind the oil tank and left it open, it drips some water on startup but has yet to really drip any oil. You may end up with oil down the side of the bike with the filter where you have it. Good luck with start up, make sure that oil light goes out quickly!