Wow, I'm so out touch with "Star Wars" shat, I had to goo goo that

That's one rightclick i'll never get back

 

There's NO way your any more out of touch with Stars Wars than I am.

 

That's just sad. I grew up with it. Saw the first one in 1977 at the RKO Fordham theater on Fordham Road in the Bronx. My grandma took me.

Ok, ok, enough thread hijack. Let's get back on track. No more 90 million dollar cars and small moon sized planet killing space stations...

 

 

Update

Last of the connectors will be in thur..., we'll pick up where we left off then

In the meantime - smoke em if you got em..., have another beer


Aside

I keep a lot of those white kitchen cutting boards - in various thicknesses - you can get from an industrial cooking supply house.., or online

Can be easily cut up and made into - non metallic spacers / washers / shims

Even made a water tight / proof subwoofer box for the boat


Anyway - going to make a plug for the oil fill hole.., then drill a hole in the middle of the plug for the temp probe

That way we don't get a false reading from the probe hitting / touching / laying on the case / oil fill neck

Ghost

 

I like the way you operate, Ghost! Cheers!

 

Man... this escalated..., then turned, went down, back up.... warp's brake werewolves even rolled through.

keep up the good work, haters gonna hate.

 

Since this thread went a bit sideways with discussion of oil filter relocations I figured I'd add my observations. I've been told that Moore Sensible Products has said you won't see much if any added cooling when relocating the oil filter. Kevin at DK Custom has done testing on his relocations and has seen some added cooling, with the downtube filter relocation showing the best numbers. I've monitored my engine temperatures both before and after the relocation and have also seen additional cooling, albeit not in the 20° - 30° range

Another factor to consider is the oil filter itself; I'm using a FLO PCS4C permanent oil filter which has a heavy billet housing. I don't have any before and after numbers there, that went on day 1 when I brought the bike home new from the dealer; Kevin at DK believes a 2° - 5° reduction in the stock location over the OEM/paper filter which I do believe as well; higher oil flow rates and lower parasitic load and the billet housing will act as a heat sink and with the images I've seen of sport bike lower body panels distorted from the heat radiating off the housing and my own experience with the permanent filters, they do throw off plenty of heat.

So the question actually becomes how much added cooling is just the relocation itself adding? Has the cooling benefit of the PCS4C increased from that 2° - 5° estimate now that it's out in the wind? Unknown at this point; most I see moving to the relocations are also running permanent oil filters as well and until someone with a before relocation baseline adds a relocation and continues to use an OEM paper filter the true effect of only the relocation is something of a guess. I base my numbers off the engine temperature sensor located on the back of the front cylinder near the head, I've never actually checked engine oil temperature as Ghost is proposing to do.

I suppose I could play patient zero and actually buy an OEM oil filter and use it for a time and get some idea of where the engine temperature numbers end up at different ambient temperatures; but sheebus, I hate those paper filters I'll see if I get a bit bored or my overly developed sense of curiosity gets the better of me. My instinct tells me my engine temperatures will go up.

These bigger inch Twin Cam's run too hot for their own good and improving engine cooling isn't a magic bullet but a step by step methodical approach involving great tuning, free flowing exhausts, free flowing A/C's venting hot crankcase gasses back to atmosphere, oil coolers, permanent oil filters for increased oil flow rates and lower parasitic load, a tank lift providing added air flow to the heads, coil relocations to improve air flow to the rear cylinder, Wards fans, cam changes to remove the 'EPA' cams, and now I add the oil filter relocation to the list.

I've not done a coil relocation and would like to avoid adding fans; that's purely aesthetics for me. Each modification brings a bit of cooling to the table and it's the combination of modifications with a thought out approach that helps get these engines running cooler.

I'm very interested in how Ghost has approached this and will wait for his numbers; if they prove to be a viable option to a core style oil cooler I will be making changes again; desire walks on Now if we can keep this great thread on track and avoid the werewolves riding in a particle collider at midnight sidetracks we're all going to learn something here...

You carry on with your bad self, Ghost!

 

Thx TC

After reading his post


Data Collection:


Tests (what the hell in for a penny.., in for a pound):

Test 1:
Install oil filter off set - block AN connections (I have -6 caps for that)
Re-install original oil filter
Make a run / collect temps

This'll be the baseline - (thinking any cooling the offset has will be negligible)


Test 2:
Install reusable oil filter (PCS4C)
Make a run / collect temps

This'll factor in any added affect the oil filter brings.., be able to isolate the wimmer "affect" in test 3..., validate what if any cooling the oil filter provides in stock location

Test 3:
Plumb up the wimmer
Keep the reusable oil filter
Make a run / collect temps

Side note:

I'll inject the wimmer w/ the necessary oil in both tubes (so we can measure that amount..., and know how much additional oil this system requires)


Test 4 (when it happens)
Add in the lj fan
Same run
Same data collection



All runs will be same length in duration / speeds / course - and include a hwy

Will conduct on days similar in air temp (I'm thinking +/- 5 degrees is acceptable)

Thoughts? (damn my head hurts now - I need a beer )

Ghost

 

That is an excellent, methodical approach to take with this; with you using the OEM oil filter first to establish your baseline you'll be able to isolate the added cooling from the PCS4C in the stock location and then you can factor it in when the Wimmer tubes come in to play; very well done

Now you've got me motivated here and I have a strong suspicion I'll be picking up an OEM filter and remove the PCS4C and do some controlled duration/temperature runs when we get some warm weather; same route, as close to the same ambient temperatures as possible, same bike fully heat soaked.

Then I'll go back to the PCS4C, and we can finally figure out what this 3Guyz relocation is bringing to the table and with your testing of both the OEM filter and the PCS4C we can also determine if the permanent filter has improved numbers on a relocated system vs a stock location...

Mythbusters ain't got nothin' on us