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Sears red jack modification

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #361  
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A similar jack is the harbor frieght yellow jack. Cycle Guide magazine has a coupon near the back of the magazine in their HB ad for that jack for $69. It is probably in some other magazines also. That is a great buy.
I have this jack and did the mods mentioned but ended up getting the HD jacking blocks anyway.
Either way a cheap jack for the occasional use we all need.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #362  
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Originally Posted by Norb5150
I watched this video a little late. I bought a harborfrieght aluminum lift $149 on sale and had the lift adapters laying around. How ever I still have to roll front tire onto a 2X6 due to bike being lowered. I did pay real good attention to the last few tools needed for the lift mod though
Correct, this mod does not affect the overall height of the pads.

This is meant to relieve the person of having to utilize the HD lift adapters.

What you could do is buy the HF wheel chock for $50 (or thereabouts). Stand your bike up using the chock then roll the jack underneath and do what you need to do. However in the grand scheme of cheapness, using a 2x is probably the best way to go.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by bill from tn
A similar jack is the harbor frieght yellow jack. Cycle Guide magazine has a coupon near the back of the magazine in their HB ad for that jack for $69. It is probably in some other magazines also. That is a great buy.
I have this jack and did the mods mentioned but ended up getting the HD jacking blocks anyway.
Either way a cheap jack for the occasional use we all need.
If you did the mod, then you shouldn't need the lift adapters at all. That's the whole point of the mod.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
If I understand what you're saying, your torin is in stock form? Hitting the kickstand bumper...just remove the bumper. It's just a hard plastic that slips on and off.
I'm partway through the mod, figuring out how far from the arm i need to space the lift pads - in order to make the lift wider. I didn't realize the bumper clips on/off, that'll make a big difference!

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
as for the spacers, are you spacing the frame (between the lift pad and frame rail) so the bike sits level?? That's because the frame is irregular, whence you either need A) the harley dyna lift adapters or perform the mod on your jack. It looks like it can be done.
I meant the spacers between the jack arms and the lift pads, as per the mod.

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Just so we're on the same page, can you point out which end you are referring to as the "front" and "rear" of the jack?
Yeah, that wasn't so clear... The orientation I was referring to was in relation to the bike - front arm = arm closest to the front of the bike.

Knowing that the jiffy stand bumper will just clip off means that I should be able to get away with minimum spacers so the pads sit just outside of the arms instead of further along the bolts. I'll check tonight and post up some pics...

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #365  
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Thanks Guys for the heads up on the HF jack ... AI almost spent the whole $99 on it ... but now gonna go pick one up for $59 !
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #366  
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We used this modified jack on my 2012 Fat Bob today and the it worked perfect
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #367  
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I don't remember who was having the problem using the modded jack to lift a fat bob, but I can tell you that I used my modded lift on Froggy's 2012 fat bob yesterday without issue whatsoever.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 08:41 PM
  #368  
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I picked up a red craftsman today on Craigslist. My 2012 SGC took a few more mods. I had to space out the left arm with 5/8" spacers. Additionally, I had to notch the front cross bar to allow clearance for the jiffy stand. But now I can lift my bike.
 

Last edited by BMyers; Apr 2, 2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 05:36 AM
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If you spaced one side, why not just space the other side as well? Would have saved you the time of notching it.

You didn't really need to do all that as the jack would have worked just moving the pads to the outside of the frame.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 05:52 AM
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the notch was required so that I could get the jack far enough under the bike to pick up the opposite side. without that the front brace would hit the jiffy stand before the pads would touch the frame.
 
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