I remodeled my Sears Yellow jack today to fit the Switchback. Cut off the aluminum crossbar between the forward ends of the lift platform so it can slide either side of the jackstand. Put three pieces from my no longer needed Softail lower frame protector (HD P/N 94675-99, http://www.harley-davidson.com/store/frame-protectors) over the Dyna's lift points excluding the right rear ridge.

Lifts good. Stable. No contact with the oil pan or other bottom parts besides the protectors on the frame. Put a couple of 1.5" tubes made from ABS sewer pipe between the forward lift ends and the bar between the wheels for stability when full up. Happy.

 

Not sure if it's still going on, but I recently bought this jack for their sale price of $86.99, plus I used their online tool promotional code of "SAVE15" to get an additional 15% off, making the total before tax $63.29. Picked it up in store that day. Just FYI.

After spending a couple of bucks on the jack mod after that I think the whole thing was operational for less than $80. Before that I was trying to decide if I wanted to spend several hundred bucks on a lift table. That would be nice, but I think it can wait... that money can go into the mods I have planned for the next few months.

 

Just curious what everybody is ending up for the width outside to outside of each pad?

My modified HF jack just doesnt seam to lift right or maybe I'm jacking up from the wrong spot?

 

I just did mine today, I didn't measure, I got on my hands and knees and looked underneath with the jack in place before I lifted the bike.


This topic is so large that the best info is buried.


I had to add washers between the arms and the pads to get it wide enough,, this set of photo's helps for jacking position;
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post6360198

Having the right side inner bolt right next to the kick stand was key for me,, but I still had too spread it out to get past the left side oil pan guard under the frame,, then lo and behold,, there's a clip on rubber stop to protect the frame from the kick stand in the up position that was in the way,, I just slid it forward.


Point is within this entire topic are about 12 way's to modify this jack,, the thread is so old folks say 5 1/2" bolts cost $8-10-12,, I didn't like the idea of using the threaded section of the bolt as part of the support,, I used 6 1/2" shoulder bolts with a bunch of flats, w/locks and nuts to get it right,
All that cost me near $30.


Get a light, shine it up under there,, crawl down on your hands an knees and look.

 

Funny how things work out. Picked up the jack today for the $78 price point. Put it together jacked up the bike and realized that the stability wasn't great. Quick google search and came to this thread will do the mod tomorrow.

I read somewhere that spacing was not right on later model Street Bobs, without going through 65 pages does anyone know if the 1/2 spacer additions have worked with your 2014's?

thanks Vic for a great and easy mod!

EDIT: Never mind, found Squidhead's post and pics on page 53 or so. Figure the 2014 frame must be the same as 2013!

 

Vic, I know that this thread is now a couple of years old, and anything that can be said has been said. Still, I wanted to give you a shout out on this. Perfect example of Internet use.

Bought the jack for $78 and when I first tried it, realized that it wasn't great on my Street Bob. While sitting in the shop where we work on our snowcats I googled "Jacking up a Dyna" and your youtube video was one of the first to pop up along with this thread on how to modify the same jack I had just bought.

Yesterday went to the store, got everything you mentioned (including the 1/2" spacers), total cost was $12. Back to my work's shop, to do the entire modification took less than 15 minutes (nice to have grinders and such available). Took it home, just jacked up the bike easy and stable. Was able to remove and re-adjust rear shock in 10 minutes.

Thanks so much man!

 

Took a pic of mine. Works perfect and I did have to add additional spacer on top of the mod instructions i found here. Front bolt is 6" and back is 7" long.


20.5" from outside to outside of the arms.

 

Mine's a little snug, had to keep looking to ensure not touching oil pan, little fidgeting. Eventually I may go to the store and get some longer screws and spacers for one side.

 

If I remember, I did my jack sometime in 2009. That's five years ago. I'm still using the same grade 8 bolts I bought in 2009. Don't be scared

The only change to the original video I made was adding 1/2" spacers to all four bolts between pad and lift frame. Adds and inch of width and also helps to clear the jiffy stand spring. You don't change where you roll the jack under the bike. Use same contact points.

It's all good.

------------------------

I'm really humbled by the responses to that video/idea. Who would've thought a simple thing would still be kept alive so many years later.

Thank you.