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Sears red jack modification

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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 06:54 PM
  #711  
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Default Red Jack Mod Done!

I purchased my jack for $73 on sale and spent another 20 in hardware. Got the mod done today and had to test it out...works great! Thanks SC Longhair for the great thread!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #712  
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Originally Posted by KSJ08
I did mine right after I bought the bike. Works great for storage/moving BUT the problem is ALL drain plugs are under lifting pads & that's the main reason I bought! :-(
Nobody else has that problem.
Your "Special",,
 
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #713  
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FYI we did this mod does not work for lowered or for 2013-2014 Dyna low rider. Unless you want to strap it. I know this thread is old been beat to death but still worth mentioning.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by Ghost_13
You Betcha

Just took some of this..., some of that - then threw it together - LOL



Bolts - 1/2"-13 X 7" - Qty 4

Nuts, locking - 1/2"-13 - Qty 4

Washers - 1/2" x 1 1/4 - Qty 16

Spacers - 1/2" x 1" L - 4

Angle iron - 1" x 1" X 9" L (I cut out the existing cross member w/ angle grinder - then installed this angle farther back to make room for the kick stand)


What you can't see - I cut 4 pieces of 1/2" pipe..., then installed them under the arms (two each side..., with the bolts going through) to give the arms more rigidity


Black krylon to paint the thing after I was done modifying

HTH

Ghost
This would work for sure. Just adding 5 1/2 bolts moving pads outside f4ame does not. Mak8ng room for kickstand and adding spacers 👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
 
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 10:15 PM
  #715  
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Originally Posted by nick@nite
FYI we did this mod does not work for lowered or for 2013-2014 Dyna low rider. Unless you want to strap it. I know this thread is old been beat to death but still worth mentioning.
Yeah it does. You just have to actually get down and look underneath the bike the first few times you use it.
You have to get the rear pad behind the crankcase. It's simple but you have to look.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 11:28 PM
  #716  
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Originally Posted by nick@nite
Unless you want to strap it.
always strap the fear lift


Originally Posted by JohnMn
Yeah it does. You just have to actually get down and look underneath the bike the first few times you use it.
You have to get the rear pad behind the crankcase. It's simple but you have to look.
check it everytime. lol damn fear lift
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 07:19 PM
  #717  
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Originally Posted by JohnMn
Yeah it does. You just have to actually get down and look underneath the bike the first few times you use it.
You have to get the rear pad behind the crankcase. It's simple but you have to look.
Well we must be idiots cause we tried it every which way but loose. No go.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 03:04 PM
  #718  
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Are grade 8 bolts absolutely necessary? Anyone use grade 2?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 03:36 PM
  #719  
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Originally Posted by End Loser
Are grade 8 bolts absolutely necessary? Anyone use grade 2?
Grade 2 bolts are low/medium carbon steel; Grade 8 bolts are medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Grade 2 proof at 55k PSI; Grade 8 proof at 120k PSI.

You decide. What's your bike worth to you? I used Grade 8 bolts when I did use a modded Fear Lift™, and I still didn't trust it
 
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 04:34 PM
  #720  
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Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
Grade 2 bolts are low/medium carbon steel; Grade 8 bolts are medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Grade 2 proof at 55k PSI; Grade 8 proof at 120k PSI.

You decide. What's your bike worth to you? I used Grade 8 bolts when I did use a modded Fear Lift™, and I still didn't trust it
It comes equipped with Grade 2. I know there's more support with the shorter bolts and the way the pads sit on the supports as opposed to hanging off the edges after modification. I actually did try to get Grade 8 or Grade 5, but they didn't have em, so I got Grade 2.

I'd like to hear from anyone who used Grade 2 on this mod?
 
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