Great thread.

 

Thank you and everybody that gave Their advice to this thread! There is no words that can express the gratitude that I have for the help that was given here and all I can say is "GREAT FORUM and GREAT PEOPLE on this site!!"

 

Here is another indication that you have a fuel problem, I noticed that the exhaust note was a little flat after going a few miles before I found the fuel problem! Now although I didn't seem to key in on that indicator at first, I did notice a very different sound in the exhaust note after I fixed the problem! Maybe I should of detected that early on instead of taking the long way around! But all being said, the exhaust note was flat and gurgally when decelerating and just a bit unequal upon acceleration ! Even the exhaust pressure from each pipe was unequal! Oh we'll, it's fixed now and it's time to RIDE!! Just thought this little tidbit would be of some help!

 

Got a couple question since this wound around so much. First some thoughts. Back up in my post 31 I was thing maybe fuel contamination or stopped up filter. The filter system will last life of the motor in my opinion as long as it gets good filtered clean gas. That is why I wanted you to suck off bottom to see what you had thinking water or lot of crud. What was so hard to follow as all the different opinions came in was it seemed at time motor could be OK for miles and then go back to problems which sounded like bad connections or say coil getting hot and shorting.

Therefore what I am thinking is it's obvious your filter was just about stopped up. When you rode the heavy crud would be stirred up and suck around filter and cause the problem. When you shut it off and it set for a while (the longer the better) that heavy crud would fall off the bottom side and let the filter pass enough gas to run marginally OK.

So the question for me is. For fuel injection I have learned in most cases when a low fuel pressure is present in this case due to a stopped up filter, the first thing you loose is idle ability since on a stock bike the idle is lean and the ECM can only catch so much if it drop off too fast. The is totally different in a carburetor since it usually can get enough fuel to idle, what happens there is it runs out of fuel when you try say to go up a steep hill or wide open throttle it.

1/So the question is once it ran and was really acting up, would it idle?

2/ What does the pre filter sock you replaced the bad one look like? The few I have seen did not appear that ethanol had any affect on them. However I worked on a 1995 Glide a while back that had set more then ever driven. Even the brass screen in the fuel strainer above peacock was eaten up from water that had condensed in tank from hot and cold days.

 

Good questions and I will try to answer the best I can:
(1) The engine did idle because the fuel pressure was at a point where a lot of fuel wasn't being consumed so the pump could keep up! But after running it to the point of acting up, when I did let it come to an idle, the idle was noticeably higher for a few seconds before returning back to normal! That was one of the questions I asked the mechanic about, but since I didn't know anything and he was the expert, my query fell on deaf ears! But I did notice that the engine was running better at idle than at a part throttle run! I did mention in one of my posts that after the engine started running so ragged at one point almost shutting down,when I let it idle for a minute, it ran fine for about another 5 or 6 miles before starting the misfire and backfiring again! In retrospect I now can see why that the engine ran better at idle and stopping and letting the fuel pressure build back up, it would run for a short ride until it started Running ragged again! Everything pointed to a ignition problem and if I had of just used some common sense and used my ears instead of my opinion, I might have noticed that when the engine started its misfire, it sounded li,e it was running out of gas instead of a misfiring cylinder! The engine codes messed me up too and if one had of popped up pointing to a fuel pressure problem, it would of saved me lots of money and frustration! But maybe I should of looked at the " non combustion" codes with a different attitude and not assumed it meant a non firing spark plug!
(2). The fuel sock that I replaced had disintegrated to the point where only the plastic clip that holds it to the bottom of the pump was left intact. The rest of the plastic was in the tank, but most of the foam like residue was missing. Now I said most, I did get a very small amount out of the bottom of the tank, but where the rest went is any bodies guess. The new one was a screen with a foam insert much like a baffle that keeps the fuel from sloshing to a point where the pump might suck air and I can understand why that is because autos have some sort of baffling in order to keep fuel slosh to a minimum. As far as the deterioration of the old one, I found through going back to the original owner ( I called 2 people that previously owned this bike) that he bike had sat for an extended period from one owner to the next and the last owner, not the one I bought it from, only rode the bike a total of 1210 miles in a 16 month period. He also said that it sat up for about a year before he sold it. The boy I bought it from owned it for 5 weeks and spent nearly $325 on repairs associated with this problem before putting it up for sale! Guess he thought it was a lemon!
Working on outboard motors and cars these past years especially during this period of Ethynol fuel, I have found that the Ethynol present in outboards and lawn equipment causes more problems than autos because the boats, lawn equipment, motorcycles, and other non Daily use gasoline engines are more prone to having fuel problems! Several years ago I had to replace fuel lines and fuel filters on nearly every boat and motor that came in and my lawn equipment had fuel lines just crack and crumble due to Ethynol and just about everybody I knew brought their lawn stuff to me to replace lines and rebuild the carbs! So I am a believer in what Ethynol can do to a gas engine!!
Hope this answers some of your questions. I tried to explain the answers as best I could!

 

Good questions and I will try to answer the best I can:
(1) The engine did idle because the fuel pressure was at a point where a lot of fuel wasn't being consumed so the pump could keep up! But after running it to the point of acting up, when I did let it come to an idle, the idle was noticeably higher for a few seconds before returning back to normal! That was one of the questions I asked the mechanic about, but since I didn't know anything and he was the expert, my query fell on deaf ears! But I did notice that the engine was running better at idle than at a part throttle run! I did mention in one of my posts that after the engine started running so ragged at one point almost shutting down,when I let it idle for a minute, it ran fine for about another 5 or 6 miles before starting the misfire and backfiring again! In retrospect I now can see why that the engine ran better at idle and stopping and letting the fuel pressure build back up, it would run for a short ride until it started Running ragged again! Everything pointed to an ignition problem and if I had of just used some common sense and used my ears instead of my opinion, I might have noticed that when the engine started its misfire, it sounded like it was running out of gas instead of a misfiring cylinder! The engine codes messed me up too and if one had of popped up pointing to a fuel pressure problem, it would of saved me lots of money and frustration! But maybe I should of looked at the " non combustion" codes with a different attitude and not assumed it meant a non firing spark plug!
(2). The fuel sock that I replaced had disintegrated to the point where only the plastic clip that holds it to the bottom of the pump was left intact. The rest of the plastic was in the tank, but most of the foam like residue was missing. Now I said most, I did get a very small amount out of the bottom of the tank and removed some from the fuel pump inlet, but where the rest went is anybodies guess. The new one was a screen with a foam insert much like a baffle that keeps the fuel from sloshing to a point where the pump might suck air and I can understand why that is because autos have some sort of baffling in order to keep fuel slosh to a minimum. As far as the deterioration of the old one, I found through going back to the original owner ( I called 2 people that previously owned this bike) that he bike had sat for an extended period from one owner to the next and the last owner, not the one I bought it from, only rode the bike a total of 1210 miles in a 16 month period. He also said that it sat up for about a year before he sold it. The boy I bought it from owned it for 5 weeks and spent nearly $325 on repairs associated with this problem before putting it up for sale! Guess he thought it was a lemon!
Working on outboard motors and cars these past years especially during this period of Ethynol fuel, I have found that the Ethynol present in outboards and lawn equipment causes more problems than autos because the boats, lawn equipment, motorcycles, and other non Daily use gasoline engines are more prone to having fuel problems! Several years ago I had to replace fuel lines and fuel filters on nearly every boat and motor that came in and my lawn equipment had fuel lines just crack and crumble due to Ethynol and just about everybody I knew brought their lawn stuff to me to replace lines and rebuild the carbs! So I am a believer in what Ethynol can do to a gas engine!!
Hope this answers some of your questions. I tried to explain the answers as best I could!

 

Had the same problem on my 05 superglide. It was the engine temp sensor.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what were the symptoms leading up to the sensor being replaced? I thought of that too after someone posted that it might be the sensor, but after checking it and later finding out it had already been replaced, I looked elsewhere. Just curious and please explain so some reading this post might know exactly what to look out for so they could repair their problem without so much fuss!

 

I don't know why my answer posted twice, but I will try to remove it!

 

Yea, I had a DTT unit go bad and it acted just like your symtoms. At first thought it was the battery going bad, then blamed the carb, then thought dirt in the tanf etc. etc. until I put my stock ECM on and that was it.Called Daytona Twin Tech and they sounded dubious and said they never go out. Well I sent it back and they said yep bad one and sent a new one.