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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 09:14 PM
  #661  
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OK, I guess I had it in my head that the lip on the header that is about 5/16" from the end would mate up against the cylinder head...looks like it comes short about 1/8".

For your second comment, there is a weld build up that keeps my flange from getting any closer to that collar. Have read from some old Fat Cat install posts to really keep tightening those exhaust nuts for the first several rides.

Just seems unusual that the exhaust stud protrudes so little out the exhaust nuts.
 

Last edited by HD Pilot; Nov 5, 2014 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:05 PM
  #662  
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I have about 3 threads showing on my nuts. No biggie.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:29 PM
  #663  
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Last season my two backs comes can completely undone....on thing holding it was the bracket below. From then on I regularly slip a socket on ever so often to make sure all is tight.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #664  
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Alan, I find whenever I install a pipe fully assembled like your fat cat I have to pry, wiggle, pry some more on both headers at the same time to get them seated into the exhaust ports. I'm not satisfied until the nuts thread on fairly easily. I try for 3 exposed threads of the studs all around when installed correctly. I've done this on my bike and a friends Dyna.

Here's my stock headers after I've had them on/off:







Looking at Strobe's pic it seems your flange needs to abut that pipe collar.
 

Last edited by mattVA; Nov 6, 2014 at 08:14 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #665  
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Hey Matt, the D&D flange set up is just so different than stock and my Bassanis too. The flange pushes against the collar but even before the collar is the welding that keeps the flange from getting up against the collar. Then the end of the header is about 5/16" and it is running into the metal D&D head gasket. So this all seems to result in not a lot of thread left to protrude out beyond the exhaust nuts.

I agree with all the wiggling which I have done, the headers visually look lined up and seated inside the cylinder exhaust ports, the exhaust nuts hand thread on with no issues but as I tighten them down I am only getting to about flush with the exhaust studs as the torque pressure ramps up - have not put the torque wrench on but 120 in-lbs is not very much.

I think after I run the pipes awile that I might be able to tighten the nuts enough to see a couple threads....


 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #666  
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Yeah I see that now. I think if you are using brand new exhaust nuts and are able to get them flush you should be okay. The reason I say new nuts is because they're distorted when new and over time become less so from re-use. If you take a look at a new nut from Harley (not the hardware store) it's oblong looking when looking at it through the threads. I've found I don't have to re-torque mine if using new more than once or so.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 09:45 AM
  #667  
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Originally Posted by mattVA
Yeah I see that now. I think if you are using brand new exhaust nuts and are able to get them flush you should be okay. The reason I say new nuts is because they're distorted when new and over time become less so from re-use. If you take a look at a new nut from Harley (not the hardware store) it's oblong looking when looking at it through the threads. I've found I don't have to re-torque mine if using new more than once or so.
That's a good idea, just have my old ones right now but I will replace them. Doesn't HD have some stainless steel ones too?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 10:00 AM
  #668  
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Mcmaster has serrated flange nuts. Helps alot to keep from loosening.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 10:52 AM
  #669  
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Allen, I really think you are good to go!

I like that, when you did not have a good feeling you stopped and investigated. Some people would just get a bigger hammer.

The flange you thought would contact head, if it did then you would no longer be applying clamping force the the exhaust gasket, instead to the the solid contact of the flange to the head, not good.

You might be able to see an impression on the exhaust gasket from all ready test fitting, that would tell you if you against the gasket.

I would re install and give it a go. You will defiantly gain a few threads after a few heat cycles and re torquing.

New locking nuts will help in the long run, but have nothing to do with initial install.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 07:43 PM
  #670  
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Originally Posted by senna
Allen, I really think you are good to go!

I like that, when you did not have a good feeling you stopped and investigated. Some people would just get a bigger hammer.

The flange you thought would contact head, if it did then you would no longer be applying clamping force the the exhaust gasket, instead to the the solid contact of the flange to the head, not good.

You might be able to see an impression on the exhaust gasket from all ready test fitting, that would tell you if you against the gasket.

I would re install and give it a go. You will defiantly gain a few threads after a few heat cycles and re torquing.

New locking nuts will help in the long run, but have nothing to do with initial install.
Yeah senna, feeling pretty good about the install again - all the responses have helped a lot. Never took the headers completely off again, just left in place with the nuts loosely tightened.

Bought new standard exhaust nuts today while passing through Waco. The parts guy did not know of any stainless steel ones so maybe I remembered wrong about them

Probably will finish up on Sunday or Monday, run/ride it a couple times before taking it to Steve(GMR) on Wednesday for the dyno.
 
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