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Not to bad on the run out man when using chain cams, no go for gear drive though. Post pics of how the cam plate looks when you take the wimpy stock cams off.
I'll try to get that tomorrow, all done today, thanks.
Not sure if you are going to split the cases or not. If you are you may want to check the wheels in a set of bench centers. This gives you a true indication of run-out. If you check them in the cases the bearings may be hiding some of the run-out. If the bearings are taking up some of the run-out this will be transferred to the cases and the bike in the form of vibration. Also if you are building a BB with a lot of Torque, and you have split the cases, you may want to think about the Timken conversion if your bike is 2003 or newer. Some may think this is not necessary, but just my opinion.
I true a lot of HD flywheels for earlier HDs (pre pressed crank-pin) and the most run-out the I allow is 0.002 inches. Anymore causes unnecessary vibrations, and premature bearing wear.
I have 6 thousandths as well. I wouldn't sweat it going forward with your build.
Hey Matt, I have a thread going over at HTT on this dilemma, they seem to be in the get the crank fixed camp. I think I am going to keep thinking and listening before I decide. I am not a lunatic driver but it seems pointless to do a nice build if I have to worry about how I drive to avoid cratering the engine but then I hate throwing money at something not necessary - torn.
Last edited by HD Pilot; Jan 31, 2014 at 01:59 PM.
Wanted to add. It's not the best runout but it is what it is. I'm pretty sure most new HD on the road have that much or more straight from the factory with zero issues.
How many miles you do annually? If you aint doin a bunch than Id leave it be. $1200 for an S&S crank and another $200 in gaskets, seals, O rings and bearings. Its easy to spend someone elses money....
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