The O.D. Of the bearing (outer race) presses into the outer hub.

You have already remove the snap ring from the back side of the inner. Your going to press that shaft (back to front) out of the bearing.

Once the inner hub is out you will see a snap ring (front side) around the O.D. of the bearing. Remove this snap ring, and press the bearing out (back to front).

Once the bearing is out of the "outer hub" take a center punch , and peen it. Example* Look at it like clock. Start at 12 and punch it close to the front side of the bore. Then move to 1 and punch close to the back of the bore. So on and so until your back where you started.

I'm pretty I have pics of this on my computer at work I just don't have them with me ATM. When I get in the shop tomorrow I'll post some pics for you.

 

Thanks, I got it now, I wasn't sure but you've confirmed the inner race confusion I had.

So peen the outer bearing race after pressing it into the outer hub right? I've never done this do you punch just past the edge or the race? I'll see if I can find some locite bearing retainer as well.

Can I ask how a bearing outer race could become loose and just move that small amount? I feel like if the outer race moves the basket would fall apart? Is it possible the race moved or was never installed properly causing the bearings to side load and develop play creating this movement? I think my IPB was installed wrong prior as well as the race wasn't in far enough.

How great is it going to be if this cures the bike and we can retire this damn thread?! I really appreciate all the help you all are providing.

 

Follow the peening procedure I posted above , but your not punching the bearing. The area you are going to peen is the I.D. Of the hub I.E. the area the O.D. of the bearing presses into.

I'll get you a pic in the morning ( even if I have to draw ). It'll make a lot more sense after you see it.

What happens for some reason the O.D. Of the bearing spins in the hub. Steel bearing race aluminum hub , who's going to wear first? For the basket to come apart the bearing would have to have a total failure and lose the rollers and *****. I've never saw one make it to that point because 9 times out of 10 the pre-mature failure causes vibrations that raise a suspicion for repair.

I honestly hope this cures your vibration issue , but either way it is a problem that needs to be addressed. I've witnessed clutch hubs cause some crazy vibes in my years.

 

If the idea is still muddy, the term "peening" is describing knurling of the surface... Essentially, you are "stamping" holes, grooves, impressions of some sort into the hub that the bearing is going to be pressed into. The idea is that when peening a spot, it pushes up surface material around the "peen", effectively making the overall hole smaller.. Visualize pushing your fist into a cake ( ), it will swell around the impression and the cake will grow taller.. Like the guys said, not exactly a recommended procedure, but its been working for shadetree's around the world for decades.. The locktite is an important component too, will help hold the bearing from spinning again. After all, you will actually have less surface area holding the bearing..

 

Loctite 609 or anything else recommended? I'll have to look around see if anyone carries it.

 

Loctite "green" 609 is a bearing retainer. That is it's "soul" purpose , and it's "designed" to fill a gap and hold bearings in scenarios like your dealing with.

I have use the red thread locker before , but the 609 is better fitted for use in your case.

I just got my work computer warmed up I'm gonna get you a reference pic here shortly.

 

* First off I'm not the best artist , but I hope this some what helps*

Top circle being the I.D. of the outer hub where the O.D. Of the bearing is pressed into. Follow it like a clock , start at 12 then move to 1 and so on.

Bottom half of the drawing is a side view cut away ( as if you were to saw the hub in half. Just a reference DO NOT CUT THE HUB ) of the outer hub I.D. Here you can see what I was trying to explain by punching one towards the front and one towards the back (inside, outside or staggering) so you can evenly move the metal around the bore.

* Again this is not a recommended permenant repair , but it will hold you over for as long as YOU are comfortable leaving it like this*

 

Pretty good drawing so punch towards the front and back of where the outer bearing race will be pressed into. I thought I was punch the surrounding area after pressing it in.

I didn't think I could even get a punch in there but I don't have it pressed apart yet. I'm going to search for 609 today as well but online no one locally has it. I'm going to try napa and maybe a bearing house? Question. Are you recommending peening or loctite or just pick one to do?

 

It you go in with the punch from the sprocket side it'll be pretty easy. I stagger the punch marks like this because in theory your getting a more even holding service a cross the face of the bearing. When I have to go this route I punch them and use Loctite. Using both is just extra insurance IMO.

I wish I could find a better explaination of why this happens. Steel vs Aluminum at the bearing bore of the outer hub , steel inner hub shaft pressed into steel bearing with a tighter tolerance , the fiber plates locking in the outer hub , steel plates locking in the inner hub , and somewhat of a side load is all I can think of. I haven't saw it that often on stock bikes, and I'm pretty sure it happens on mine because I beat the **** ot of it haha.

 

This is all they carry. I believe it's the same as loctite 609. Appears to have the same specs if this isn't it let me know.