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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 05:34 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by kp877
Ya it's just a sealed one same bearing number. Is there any advantage to leaving it sealed?
No, it needs oil to get to it.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #272  
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As spanner said it needs oil.

You'll be fine with just popping the seals out. We do this all the time on the Diesel engines I work on. 99% of the time the bearing number will be the same except with an "S" or "G" at the depending on the manufacturer
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #273  
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Ok I'll pop the seals out. It's a 5207-2RS. Found a press I can use this weekend if the bearing and retaining ring is in by then.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:25 PM
  #274  
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Good deal man. Are you going to just install the new bearing or center punch the bore?
Without peening/punching (or replacing the outer hub) your just going to be in the same boat your in now.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by Throttle_Jockey
Good deal man. Are you going to just install the new bearing or center punch the bore?
Without peening/punching (or replacing the outer hub) your just going to be in the same boat your in now.
Add lock tite to the equation??
Never Mind read previous page BG
 

Last edited by WP50; Jul 8, 2014 at 06:36 PM. Reason: previous page
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #276  
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Originally Posted by Throttle_Jockey
Good deal man. Are you going to just install the new bearing or center punch the bore? Without peening/punching (or replacing the outer hub) your just going to be in the same boat your in now.
. I have no clue really. I feel more lost about this one bearing swap than anything I've done. I don't really understand what and where it's popping apart or how it's going back together yet I'm sure what I start pressing it apart it will make sense. I don't know what you mean by center punch or peening but if you would explain I'll do whatever you guys think is best.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by kp877
. I have no clue really. I feel more lost about this one bearing swap than anything I've done. I don't really understand what and where it's popping apart or how it's going back together yet I'm sure what I start pressing it apart it will make sense. I don't know what you mean by center punch or peening but if you would explain I'll do whatever you guys think is best.
Peening means you centre punch the alloy around the outside diameter of the bearing so the hub distorts and holds the bearing tighter.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 07:18 PM
  #278  
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As Spanner stated about the punching.

Also as much as that bearing appears to be moving in the video. Once the inner hub is pressed out and the snap ring removed from the bearing I don't think there will be a need to press the bearing out. You'll probably be able to push it out by hand.

Unless someone beats me to it I'll try to post some pics tomorrow to give you a better idea. Don't get the lost feeling once everything is apart it'll seem really straight forward.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #279  
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To remove leave inner snap ring in, press out from the center shaft and not the bearing race. Then press bearing out of hub by inner race.

Installation, book says press by outer race into outer hub then press inner hub into bearing. Do I just hold the basket by the inner race to keep it from busting the new bearing?

I can't visualize right now how I'm installing it without destroying the new bearing seems like as soon as I press the inner hub into the bearing I'm side loading the bearing.

Where would I punch this thing I can't see the outer race at all Of all the things on youtube there's nothing on this. Must be very easy to do or no one replaces them.
 

Last edited by br549A1; Jul 8, 2014 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #280  
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Sit inner race on a piece of pipe while you press the inner hub into the bearing.
 
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