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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #2591  
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Dear mr. iclick, I'm wondering if you could offer some insight as to why since installing my PV the bike runs hotter? The map Jamie sent me works very well but still hotter than when I had the PCV. I have datalogged with the map and developped loud baffle maps and quiet baffle maps. Each time I make a new map the bike runs super- but always hot. the plugs are turning white and at temps higher than 290 I get knocking and pinging. Any help will be appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #2592  
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Originally Posted by maddghost
Dear mr. iclick, I'm wondering if you could offer some insight as to why since installing my PV the bike runs hotter? The map Jamie sent me works very well but still hotter than when I had the PCV. I have datalogged with the map and developped loud baffle maps and quiet baffle maps. Each time I make a new map the bike runs super- but always hot. the plugs are turning white and at temps higher than 290 I get knocking and pinging. Any help will be appreciated.
FM usually tunes PCV's at about 13.8:1 in the cruise range, but if you're running closed-loop with your PV you're no richer than 14.4 (.981 if Lambda calibration). You could run open-loop and set AFR lower, but your mileage will suffer. Post your AFR table if possible and we'll take a look at it.

Plugs will be an off-white tone when running normally, so unless you see signs of blistering you are probably okay. Take a look at this NGK FAQ on reading spark plugs. You should get a grip on the detonation, however, as that is something that needs to be nipped in the bud sooner rather than later. You should run some datalogs and look at where the detonation is occurring (Spark Knock Front and Rear). You could also let PV Tune dial it out.

Let us know what you come up with.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 06:27 AM
  #2593  
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Thanks for the response. I looked at ngk website and the first one "normal" is exactly what my plugs look like. With my pcV the plugs were brown with tan elctrode, ( i really mean the angled piece), but as you mentioned pcV maps run at 13:8 and the afr for PV in the normal 2/3 operating range is all set at 14.6 (stoich for me it's an 08 with narrow band sensors).

Now the mileage I'm getting is over the top, on a 5 gal tank I'm getting over 200 miles with a half gal left over! All this unless I am really opening it up which does'nt happen all that often. Great right? so I am willing to sacrifice a bit of gas for cooler running with more power.

When I am datalogging my PV temp guage reads 240 to 265 F. If i get into the city and wait out a couple of traffic lights it climbs up to 300 and I've seen it go to 320 and 330. That's when I'm getting relly sick knocking and pinging. Otherwise PV has already adjusted the spark knock and it's running very nicely.

Catching my own gist here it seems I have a heat issue because I've read here that one guy's bike is running no hotter than 190F and my knocking is bad at over 280. So I am wondering, if I understand you correctly, all I have to do is try editing a map to give me say 14.2 or 14.3 and go do a run?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 06:57 AM
  #2594  
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You might want to check the temp that your heat mgmt system kicks on. Mine was set at 590* and I lowered it to 284*. Just a thought.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #2595  
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Originally Posted by Delta
You might want to check the temp that your heat mgmt system kicks on. Mine was set at 590* and I lowered it to 284*. Just a thought.
590* what do they want friggin meltdown?!!! I have looked at that and it seems mine is switched off. So i switched it on and put it to 290*
 

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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #2596  
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What was the temp set at on yours? It will make a little difference in that in stop and go traffic heat mgmt will try and slow the heating up. In heavy city traffic mine might hit the 320s* but I don't really worry about it. A lot of folks don't like it when it kicks in, but it's doing what it's supposed to do. When the bike is running on 1 cylinder when stopped, just before I take off I blip the throttle to shut the heat mgmt off. No stumbles off the line. You'll get used to it. Traffic + hot summer days + HD = Hot

Happy motoring....
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #2597  
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Originally Posted by maddghost
Thanks for the response. I looked at ngk website and the first one "normal" is exactly what my plugs look like.
Mine look like that too.

With my pcV the plugs were brown with tan elctrode, ( i really mean the angled piece), but as you mentioned pcV maps run at 13:8 and the afr for PV in the normal 2/3 operating range is all set at 14.6 (stoich for me it's an 08 with narrow band sensors).
You could set your CLB to 750 and get the AFR down a tad, but I would look more into trying to control the ET in ways that will likely have a bigger impact. I would add an oil cooler if you don't already have one, and maybe the Ward FCS (see thread here). These two will help keep engine and oil temps under control.

Now the mileage I'm getting is over the top, on a 5 gal tank I'm getting over 200 miles with a half gal left over! All this unless I am really opening it up which does'nt happen all that often. Great right? so I am willing to sacrifice a bit of gas for cooler running with more power.
Your mileage should be optimal where you have your AFRs set now, but I would probably dial AFR @ 90% down to 13.5-13.8 and WOT at 13.0. IMO there's no need to run <13.0 unless you are at WOT for sustained periods of time.

When I am datalogging my PV temp guage reads 240 to 265 F. If i get into the city and wait out a couple of traffic lights it climbs up to 300 and I've seen it go to 320 and 330. That's when I'm getting relly sick knocking and pinging. Otherwise PV has already adjusted the spark knock and it's running very nicely.

Catching my own gist here it seems I have a heat issue because I've read here that one guy's bike is running no hotter than 190F and my knocking is bad at over 280. So I am wondering, if I understand you correctly, all I have to do is try editing a map to give me say 14.2 or 14.3 and go do a run?
You could try changing your AFR to a lower value, like 14.2, but I would be surprised if it makes much difference in ET. The tests I've done on my bike show that it doesn't result in much change. If you move the AFR value below 14.6 it will automatically run in open-loop in those areas, which isn't a big deal IMO. All that said, I'll repeat my assertion that it probably won't make much difference and that there are more effective ways to lower ET and OT.

Before installing the FCS I saw ET climb to as high as 330° on two occaisons in the past three years, and I had no detonation as a result. BTW, that's too damn hot IMO.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #2598  
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I will try it at 13.8 , spoke to jamie this morning he said 260 to 340 is considered normal - not dangerous. I don't like it either.

It will give me a clank when really hot if i blip the throttle too suddenly - prolly just my bad- the rest of my pinging is virtually gone and she pulls like crazy all the way up!!

IYO why do I always feel she pulls harder with the open end cap and 8 discs compared to the closed end cap with 20 discs which are supposed to avail of the same air flow with much much less decibles??

@ Delta I set the ET Mngmnt to 300 and it kicked in @ 310. it was set at 570 LOL. Also I have lowered my idle speed to 926 instead of 976.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #2599  
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Good deal on the FCS. Just ordered mine a few days ago and hope to have it by Aug 1. That's what it takes these days, especially on a trike.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #2600  
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I did a little searching online and I am a little confused about something.

Heres the deal, I have a 2012 Ultra limited. I have the power vision and have tuned my bike.
Well, I also have my Wife's 2012 Dyna Super Glide FXDC and I am starting to do the stage one on it.

I know that I can pay DJ another $199 and tune a second bike. But the Ultra and the Dyna Power Vision is two different part numbers.
What is different about the PV? Is it the same unit but just comes with a different cable? Or are there two completely different units?

Can I just buy the cable for the Dyna and pay the $199 for the second license? Or do I need a whole new power vision unit for the Dyna?

Can't call DJ or Jamie till Thursday and wanted to order the cable now. Do you PV guru's know if I can use the same PV and just buy the cable for the Dyna plus buy the license for the second bike or am I going to have to buy another PV all together?
 
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