I have the exact same as papi going on, but I'm not sure which adjustments to make, if someone could outline that I'd be real happy and may not have to call jamie for the info!

Also the other day I was trying to make a lowered afr map and came back from a 250 mile ride with bright white plugs! ( that scared me ) All ok now, I took another ride with the original afr tune , which is PV datalogged #5 version of the original map Jamie sent me and the plugs went back to perfect as described by NGK and iclick.

So trying to be logical I lowered everything in the pink area of the grid to 13.8, the first line under that fuelmoto had set to 13.9, Iput 13.6, and the rest of the map was set 13.5 or lower so I just didn't change that. That is when I came back with the white plugs. I did that according to the info given a couple pages back but I must need slightly more specific details.

so knowledge on how to properly set an afr would be real great! I could try google but it seems the guru's are all here!they keep sending me back to this thread!
3 basic questions 1, how to balance the knock retard (for us tards)
2, how to make a lowered afr that won't lean out my fuel
3, can my idle speed be lowered to say 956 instead of 976? is that safe?

 

when you lower AFR example 14 to 13.6 you are making it richer, not leaner.. lower afr adds more fuel.
- i wouldnt play with the idle.. to low of an idle will affect oil pressure unless your motor is modified... I'd stay with the stock RPM at idle... to low of an RPM can also cause knocking. why do you want to lower the RPM anyways ?
are you in open loop or closed loop mode ?

 

how about an example... dont want to mess things up...Iclick.. what u think ?

 

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I know this! lol, however after a 240 mile ride with my afr set as above (13.8, the first line under that fuelmoto had set to 13.9, I put 13.6, and the rest of the map was set 13.5 or lower) I came back with plugs that looked as white as the driven snow the entire electrode and ring that faces the hot side in the combustion chamber they have however come back normal after another ride yesterday with the re-verted afr.....Jamie said it may even be the fuel that was in my tank so he doesn't actually put too much stock in reading plugs any more, and I could set my afr just the way I had it and should be good and rich, but I didn't really notice a change in performance so for now i just won't mess with it.

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Your supposed to be safe down to 900 but the engines we have fluctuate at idle anywhere from 1020 down to 940 with the stock setting so i don't want too low either for the oil pressure and charging system not to get beat up when from 926 it may dip to 865-870 (danger zone) all the way up to 950, so I spoke to jamie this morning 956 idle is fine stock is 976, it just sounds a little nicer at idle that way so lower idle = aesthetics in my case- a preference! And I'm running closed loop.

 

The basic tune will do your timing.

https://www.box.com/shared/i66qvn4xf1s2xp7fgy8v

I am talking in lambda here thats what my bike is and thats what I concentrated on learning. I did my timing by using the 319245 code as described in link I did not turn anything thing else off to set up for a tune run. I had my afrs set to .977 from RPM 750 to 3500 and KPA 20 to 75. Rode bike all day on a few different days making data logs. I did not baby it and I just ran the bike like I want to ride. Then ran the logs in Log tuner and used the SAME map but before I ran it in log tuner I changed the afr to .981 so log tuner would run it. I did not let log tuner make any changes to my VEs but I let it take timing out. I was surprised to find that my finale map had pulled less timing then expected and I had no spark knock the most timing it ended up pulling out was way up on the RPM and out at 100 KPA. One cell I think was -2 or -3 I would have to look at my map to quote exactly. Right now I am playing with the afrs but so far I can run my bike from .977 to .981 and I have one map I am testing with a mixed fuel table with a range of .980 to .986 it takes a lot of effort and time. I am tracking my fuel mileage right now with ALL the mixed maps I have tried my average is 42.6 mpg. But I am in the process of knowing exactly what I get with each map. My all out throw the throttle to it and go map right now is the .977 map. The other maps I call fuel mileage but the jury is still out on that but I can tell the throttle response and get up and go is not the same with the other maps but the reality is they are more than fine for riding around and not acting like a jackwagon on the throttle.

I know whats it like to have tune issues believe me I have had a few when all else fails go back to your original fuelmoto base map or what ever base map you used and start over. I have had to do that a couple of times. But now am pretty happy with the tunes I have. Every time you make changes on your map I have found it very helpful to use the compare feature in WinPV and watch every cell and change to your working map as it happens that way any surprises you spot before your tune is in the bike and out on the road.

Sometimes the best way to read these long threads is backwards. Idle and other things have all been hashed out.

 

When you guys are data logging do you find its hard to get hits in the upper rpms? Holding it at 5 and 6 grand to get your thirty hits just dont feel right. Do you guys lower your hit count requirment to hit the upper rpm ajustments? Also when you hit calculate tune does it only ajust whats in closed loop or does it also have a way to calculate open loop as well?
Thanks in advance...

 

Depends on who's bike and the way they feel. I think the most important part of the data logging instructions that you maybe missed was ride the bike as you normally would while trying to vary the loads

Are you running closed or open loop? cause closed loop Oem sensors won't really pick up anything past 4000 rpm. The rest is mapped by whoever created the map. Unless I'm mistaken.

 

I am running closed loop up to 4000rpm. This area is no problem for me. My question maybee wasnt clear. I am wondering on how the open loop tunning works? When you calculate the tune does it also make changes in the open loop areas or is this part tunned ussing a differnt method? I am wondering if having no o2 scenser for data can it still calculate fuel tables in the open loop areas? I hope Im making scense
Thanks for your help.

 

For tubeman...

I'm not totally positive about this, but this is what I understand. The Harley ECM monitors data 8 time per second, but the PV samples parameters 50/sec. This can be confirmed either by forum members more knowledgable than me, or you can open one of your tuning logs in an Excel spreadsheet. All parameters are shown against time. But in summary, I don't think it takes too long to get hits at high RPM levels. To get low RPM high MAP hits, I roll on power while riding the rear brake. This probably adds too much load and may elicit knock events, but it's something I do. It's also a rush when ya let off the brake...

 

Hi Everyone,

I apologize in advance for the newbie question but I'm new to the fuel management world and a lot of this is over my head. I did read through 50 or so pages to gather as much info as possible.

In 10 days I will be picking up my 2012 Sportster 48 and will be upgrading the pipes and air cleaner right away.

I'm looking for the best system to make sure my bike runs smooth and reliable after the mods. The PV looks like an incredible device but how difficult will it be to program my bike to run smooth and rich after the mods?

I'm sure I wont get into the level of tuning many of you are. I just want to prevent any overheating, sputtering, backfiring, etc.

Any advice or guidance is greatly appreciated

thanks
steve